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Ask me anything about car leasing

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Markus AllenPerson was signed in when posted
10:01 AM ET (US)
Hey hey Ron,

Yes. My system turns the tables on "dealerships". Instead of shenanigans and B.S. games, we are in control - from the comfort of our home. Anyone who goes to a "stealership" is overpaying by at least $6,000.00 to $12,0000.

About timing. Waiting until March (end of quarter) might save us less than 9% of the payment we get any other time of the year. Is that worth it? Of course, that is up to you. And I say might as in at the most. For example, last month (last week of year) was a HUGE disappointment for (most of) my clients. It certainly was not worth the wait.

Remember, my system finds the preverbial "needle in the haystack". It finds a car seller who needs that one last sale to make their HUGE "retro" (i.e. retroactive) manufacturer-to-dealership bonus. Sure, incentives help, but it is more about improving our luck finding these desperate car sellers. This is why I do not spend a lot of time fretting about incentives. Instead, we send out dozens and dozens of pitch letters to target a 1% deal.

About your second question - my system works well to get Pacificas super close to 1% of the MSRP (and as always, $0 cash down). In this case study, it was actually less than 1% of the MSRP:


With that said, I would NEVER, EVER get a Pacifica. Nor would I get a Sienna or Odyssey. Because the INFINITI QX60 gives us WAY more bang for the buck. Of course, the QX60's middle-row doors do not slide open... but that is okay because we always park away from other cars in lots. And INFINITI's center stack is long in the tooth - very dated. But that does not matter to us as our iPhones and iPads fit the bill quite nicely. The QX60 does not have captain's chairs... this kind of sucks, but it is not a deal breaker for us, either.

I HIGHLY recommend reading my post about how to pick the right car - here:

- markus
Edited 01-16-2019 10:16 AM
12:34 AM ET (US)
Hi Markus! I purchased your system about a week ago and have been doing my homework in getting prepared for today - Tuesday. Your videos, success stories, blog posts, templates are all spot on. Very easy to follow! I came up with a list of 100 dealers here in southern CA and sent out email #1 today as a feeler. I have about a 70% response rate so far which is great, and about 5 legit lease worksheets to consider for Email #2.

My question has to do with timing - now that it is January, there are literally no incentives on the car I want (or more specifically, my wife wants) - a 2019 Honda Odyssey EX-L ($38,610 MSRP). The only incentive listed is $750 loyalty cash if you already lease a Honda which I do not (I own an older model Odyssey). In March, it will be end of quarter and end of fiscal year for Honda. Would you recommend waiting to see what, if any, incentives there will be for March? In your opinion do the incentives make a material difference in the monthly payment price dealers will go down to?

Second question would be recommendations on minivans. Apparently Odyssey leases are hard to get discounted, same with the Sienna. Pacifica has some good incentives but poor reliability, even though we would only have it three years. In your experience, what would be a typical 'good' percentage for an Odyssey? Your blog said to start with 1.17% ($440). After Email #1, best offer so far is $474 per month sign and drive ($570 due on delivery).

Any advice is appreciated! No matter what, this is a fun process and it is amusing to see so many responses in line with what you said to expect! Ultimately I may drag my feet and do a 'remember me' and 'are there any new incentives in March to get me closer to my budget' messages in March to see what happens.

Markus AllenPerson was signed in when posted
06:57 PM ET (US)
Hey Sandy,

Can you copy and paste this message as a help-desk ticket... it is under the "Help" tab.

- markus
05:46 PM ET (US)
Hi, Markus. I know you've answered this question before, but I can't find the answer. I just sent out the email 1 to all the named people, and now I need to get the car dealerships that only have "Contact Us." How do I do this? (again!)

04:55 PM ET (US)
Thanks, Marcus! I just ordered your program. We should be pretty good candidates I think; fico in the mid 700’s, good income, & we are not desperate for a new car. We can wait until we get a great offer.

I’ll let you know how we do! Hoping we can provide you with your next great success story.

Markus AllenPerson was signed in when posted
07:19 AM ET (US)
Hey JP,

What you are looking for is what I call a "rare production" car. My system works quite well with these.

With that said, you are looking more towards the 1.3% of the MSRP - again, always sign and drive (no money down).

When you say "settle" - I will gladly "settle" when I am able to save $6,000 to $12,000 on a new-car lease. That is how much extra profit is available on any car sold here in the good ol' US of A. Because most people pay 100% full price on leases. Some "lease hackers" shoot for 6- to 11% reduction in price. With my system, we shoot for a 26.5% reduction in price.

Again: there are no guarantees... way too many variables in the grand scheme of things.

- markus
12:28 AM ET (US)
Hi Markus! I'm curious about how much I will have to 'settle for' for our 1% lease price if I use your program and send out lease requests to the dealerships; i.e., interior/exterior colors, options, etc. The vehicle we need is hard to find in the exact set-up that will work for our family (we need the All Wheel Drive due to location; we need certain other features to accommodate our family's special needs (rear windows that roll down most of the way, rear moonroof -sounds unusual, I know, but for our twins' autism, anything less feels claustrophobic to them and we're limited to 30 minutes of travel before panic attacks...)

For my own sanity, no white vehicles this time -but that's the VAST majority that I'm finding. I found a single vehicle that ticks off all of the needs plus our color request within about 100 miles. We can wait, as we aren't in dire need yet. We have 2 working paid-off vehicles, and about 30 minutes of travel is all we do for the most part. However, those paid off vehicles will be needing tires, possible transmission work, and a new battery sooner rather than later. Can a dealership order us our exact specs for our offer, or are we needing to focus on what is sitting on the lots?

Thanks in advance! Love your blogs, & looking forward to checking out your Lease At Home Program. -JP
Markus AllenPerson was signed in when posted
08:53 AM ET (US)
Hey Ismael,

The 1% rule is merely a guide. My teach my clients to shoot for getting leases between .7% of the MSRP and 1.3%.

This is for everything - including taxes. Plus, we never put a single penny down... so it is a sign-and-drive deal, too.


Since local taxes vary widely, some areas might get a bit lower prices, others higher. City dwellers typically pay more than those living in the suburbs (or like me the middle of nowhere).

(And yes... there is an MSRP for the car and a separate MSRP for each upgrade and option.)

I often sound like a broken record. Because so many people are stuck on the "1% rule" as gospel. It is not. It is guidance - not guaranteed. It is a target. For example, if you get any BMW lease below 1.3% of the MSRP, you did super duper well. But if you get an INFINITY at 1.1% of the MSRP, you did "just okay. But a 1.1% Hyundai deal is fantastic."

There are so many factors at play - I would not get stuck on the "1% rule".

What I teach my clients is to use my system and see what happens. I even suggest using my system on several different cars over the course of several different weeks. This way, we can see which car gives us truly the most outstanding deal.

- markus
Ismael R.
01:54 AM ET (US)
Hey Markus, simple question. When applying the 1% rule say for an SUC that’s valued at $32,000 the monthly payment should be around $329 or less however is that before or after taxes? Also, would iit be safe to assume that if the dealer won’t meet at that price I shout just walk away? Also, the MSRP is what the manufacture says the car is worth but when you get to the dealership there are a bunch of ads-on’s That jack up the price. So should I stick to solely trying to get the 1% rule to match the MSRP or the total value of the car with all the “upgrades”?
Markus AllenPerson was signed in when posted
09:09 PM ET (US)
Hey hey StillLearning,

Yes, odds are the dealership is laughing all the way to the bank - while slappin' you on the back for "taking us to the cleaners on this deal."

Do not fret about it. It happened to me all during my adult life. This is why I launched this site. (But it will NEVER happen again.)

No need to send me your lease agreement - this post helps you self determine if you got a truly outstanding deal on your new lease:


- markus
Edited 01-10-2019 09:09 PM
01:54 PM ET (US)
Hi Markus,

I came across your site a little too late (I got a leased car 10 days ago). I think I got a good deal but I'm not sure, as there are so many fees on the paperwork. Even if I did not pay them, I'm pretty sure the dealership benefited. I'm trying to understand how.
Please I'd like to send you my lease agreement for a look over. Would you kindly educate me?

Markus AllenPerson was signed in when posted
08:13 PM ET (US)
Hey hey RTM,

I get the confusion on my stance about flipping end-of-lease cars for a profit here...


Most of the questions in this FAQ section surrounds being either "underwater" and/or being way over the mileage allowance...

But for the VAST majority of people who get my system, they walk away with a nifty profit after having a car-buying service buy out their lease.


We avoid paying a "disposition fee" of at least $350.00 when we "flip" our vehicle.

Even better, the car-buying services I recommend within my system offer to flat-bed tow our old car away FREE. It sure beats begging the dealership to take back our car... and yes, we have to beg them because they HATE taking back cars (unless we lease another new car from them).

So to be clear: I HIGHLY recommend trying to flip our end-of-lease vehicle for a profit. If in the unlikely event we cannot, then we simply turn in the vehicle and walk away.

At the risk of sounding like an annoying broken record, my video will explain this complex topic at length. I cannot wait to alert you when the video is complete. Stay tuned!

- markus
Edited 01-06-2019 08:34 PM
RTMPerson was signed in when posted
02:29 PM ET (US)
Markus, I'm considering your program but it's not clear which scenarios you focus on. Based on your posts, it appears you don't recommend purchasing your car coming off a lease or trading in your lease for another one. If that's the case then what is the ideal scenario for your system? Thanks!
Edited 01-06-2019 02:54 PM
Markus AllenPerson was signed in when posted
08:56 AM ET (US)
Good morning Casey,

If you read this thread, you know I have been promising a video about "flipping" cars since last month. I do not make excuses - but I am still workin' on it.

Until then, I have a written guide here:

With that said, most people get their appraisals from Kelly Blue Book, etc. These are not always accurate. I have a better way to appraise - again, I will have it in my video.

About VW willing to adjust their residuals... just ask. Contact VW and ask how you can get the residual lowered by 10%. This works from time to time. As they say, if you do not ask, you do not get.

The good news is if you cannot "flip" your VW for a profit, you simply hand in the keys and walk away. (Of course this is different if we are "underwater" and owe a lot for under-the-mileage penalties. Again, my video addresses this issue.)

And I appreciate the kudos on my blog.

Happy weekend!

- markus
10:49 PM ET (US)
Hi Markus,

I'm in a lease with 5 payments left on a Volkswagen GTI. I found out I'm having my first kid soon so I want to get into a cheaper lease. However, I'm not sure what to do with my current lease. It's appraising about 2000 to 3000 lower than the residual value, and rolling the remaining payments into my next lease is putting me out of budget on a lot of vehicles I'm considering. Do you think Volkswagen Credit is still willing to adjust the residual after their multiple scandals? And what part/who do you contact at the financial company to discuss adjusting the residual?

Also just wanted to say thanks for your website, it has helped me tremendously. I'd like to use your product once I actually get into setting up a lease for my new vehicle.
Markus AllenPerson was signed in when posted
10:05 AM ET (US)
Hey hey Jordan,

Great followup question:

As an entrepreneur, I like to mitigate risk.

Right now, interest rates are rising. My observation is they will never be as low as they were 2 years ago. By locking in a rate today at relatively low interest rates, I mitigate the risk of having rates double in a few years.

Now, if I saw a trend of lowering interest rates, I would agree - let it play its course and buy out at the last minute.

- markus
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