top bar
QuickTopic free message boards logo
Skip to Messages

TOPIC:

Eun Mara Builders Discussion

^               1760-1775 of 1775  1744-1759 >>
1775
Steve B
05-22-2017
12:48 PM ET (US)
Andrew-
I made my own sails from kits put together by Sailrite, it's been a while but all three were less than $1000. Add another grand or so for the sewing machine- but that is a tool so it doesn't count...

Edwin-
It does seem like most "modern" boats use a roller reefing jib. I use a Wykekam Martin roller furler at the end of my bowsprit, it is either all the way in or out, I don't think it would work to partially unfurl. The prototype EM "Minna" has an inner forestay that shackles to the stem with a small jib for use with a reefed mizzen, I am working on replicating that set up on my boat. Currently I'm keeping the new forestay tied off the to the tabernacle so I don't have to bring the working jib over it every time we tack. We haven't had enough wind (ok by me) to try out the new system though I am now reminded I need to finish rigging up a way to reef the mizzen from the cockpit.

I've looked at running the main halyards back to the cockpit but am staying with the simplicity of keeping them at the mast at least for now. I would want to strengthen the tabernacle to account for the fore and aft load of the new halyard run, probably by extending the base aft.
1774
Andrew McGreal
05-21-2017
08:24 PM ET (US)
Curious about whether you can have reef points in the jib. I don't have the mizzen or the bowsprit. Figure you could reef the jib from the forward hatch. But never seen modern boats with reefs in the jib. So not sure if it is a silly idea.

Still curious about the price of sails. Fairly ready to go with a sailmaker but would like to know whether the price is reasonable.

Anyone willing to share?

ARM
1773
edwin kolkman
05-20-2017
05:47 PM ET (US)
Hi all,

Sure Richard I 'll sent you some pictures. Interesting is probably some adjustments I choose and some already made. Today made a place to put the anchor away. I made in the bow a self-draining locker. complete seperate from the cabin. I made something like a coat-rack to hang the anchor below deck. This locker is in front of the kingpost, so it is big enough to stow a stormsail, lines etc. Below the waterline filled the bow with PUR material. On top plywood bottom, glassed.

I like the coastal waters more and more. So seaworthynes is to me a real item. What options do you've got to reduce the sail? And how does it works. Rolling genua is very usefull, but if the wind is increasing the safety of that system is decreasing. Even there are very good systems and of course most of the sailingboats got it. But if it goes from bad to worse that system is vulnerable. How do you deal with that. Is there a spare stay to raise a storm-jib?
To reduce the main, can it all be done from the cockpit?
Am I right that to have a mizzen there is no need for a trysail?
Any ideas about lifelines on deck? Sprayhood?
I made allready a selfdraining floor in the cockpit.
Instead of having a galley, I like to cook outsite and have a place to put wet clothes away.
Sure pictures are coming.

Bye Edwin
1772
Richard Almond
05-20-2017
04:43 AM ET (US)
Hi Andrew. Yes, I think Ian M had difficulty glassing around that bend to cover the end of the case. Forewarned, I decided to glue a thin length of wood over the plywood edge instead. See the last three photos at http://www.geoss.com.au/eun_mara/bilgeboards_and_cases.html.

Edwin - welcome back. I still have a few of your early photos at http://www.geoss.com.au/eun_mara/edwin.htm. Feel free to send more if you wish. My email address is available at http://www.geoss.com.au/eun_mara/index.htm
Edited 05-20-2017 04:47 AM
1771
Ian Milne
05-19-2017
05:46 PM ET (US)
Hi Edwin, That's good, what you do. Good to hear you're back to working on Notedop.
Ian
1770
edwin kolkman
05-19-2017
12:21 PM ET (US)
Hi all,

My Notedop (means nutshell) has had a lack of tension on my mind for several months. Priority has been on the running bussines and on training aspirant sailors. Some of them have their own yachts, already. So I’ve been on several boats for the last 2 months. 29 foot up to 49 foot. Oh, my goodness . Never a huge ship. I don’t want to have a need for a 2 cilinder genrator to provide the washingmachine, the microwave, or electrical winches. What to think about the care of the cooling wine-cellar. It looks nice white leather on top of the majestic benches, huge tables, in the cabin you can stand everywhere, even the dog has his own furniture. But what happens if some of that system-things failes? The 49' was nearlly 4 mtr wide, also inside on the white leather benches naerly 4 mtr wide. What if the weather is not so friendly and waves rolling over and over. The caravan is to big to secure for not falling 3 mtrs down. It didn’t make me feel comfortable on board. Draught of 240 cm . Oeffh.
I’m still happy about the decision to build a small cruising boat like the EM. Pure sailing, no electrical things exept some spotify devices. Not even a proper galley, just an trangia burner like a backpacker. Not even a winecellar, just a route into a small creek wich ends at a local pub with a cold beer.

Sure I’m back in my Notedop

Bye Edwin
1769
Ian Milne
05-19-2017
06:03 AM ET (US)
Hi Andrew,
Good to hear you're making progress. You don't have to worry about being a pest.
When you put the strip of fibreglass over the joint between the inside of the case and the outside of the hull, be careful you don't get a bulge on the inside of the case. I did, and had to spend some time filing it back.
Ian
1768
Andrew McGreal
05-18-2017
10:42 PM ET (US)
Thanks for asking Steve. I feel sometimes I am a pest here so was laying low until had something useful to say. Still, here is a wordy update.

The cases went in well. But kinda lazily (that a word?) stalled at putting the last supporting pieces on it. Also have to fiberglass the inside to the outside where it protrudes through the bottom. Hesitating on that because I expect it to be messy and worried that the fiberglass won't make the bend.

Put my first piece of decking on. Front piece up to the Samson post. Small but felt good. Frantically trying to get the area forward of the cabin beam sanded, epoxied and painted so I can put that piece of deck in. That would allow me to start working on the cabin proper.

My bilge plates (after all the mental hand wringing just going per the plans) are bought and my school welding shop is cutting them out for me.

In negotiations with a sailmaker. Anyone willing to share what they paid for sails? I have not bought a sail in 20 years and would just like to know that what I am being quoted is reasonable.

That about covers it.

Cheers

ARM
Edited 05-18-2017 10:43 PM
1767
Ian Milne
05-17-2017
05:14 AM ET (US)
My sheet blocks were in the middle of the side decks, as shown on the plans. They were screwed into a deck beam, so there was no hole in the deck. They seemed to work alright there, as far as I could tell. Bob has his on a track, on "Morna". As you know, Wee Seal/Kotik has hers on the edge of the cabin roof.
Ian
1766
Steve B
05-16-2017
02:45 PM ET (US)
Pretty quiet around here. How are those boards coming along Andrew?

I've been out on Marianita a few times since installing the heavier (correct weight) bilgeboards. With boards deployed she feels stiffer at the dock and while sailing. She seems to tack better too...how much of that is confirmational bias/wishful thinking is open to discussion! The boat does sit on her lines differently now, just a bit lower at the bow and I've been working on shedding a few kilos over the winter so it may well be that the stern isn't dragging quite the way it was.

One question for the group: I've been messing about with where the lead block for the jib sheets go and have by trial and error found a sweet spot for sail shape with a small block shackled to the chainplate for the aft shroud. Hard on the wind I get the clew just inboard of the forward shroud.From what I can tell most of these boats have the block mounted in the middle of the side-deck, which would be maybe 4 inches further inboard than where mine ended up. The gaff rig isn't particularly close winded to start, does anybody think that extra bit of sheeting angle is used or do you end up easing the sheets anyway to get more power out of the main? I've got a nice dry cabin right now and I don't want to put any holes in the deck if I can help it.
1765
Andrew McGreal
04-17-2017
09:30 PM ET (US)
Couldn't get the copper pipe the right size anyways.

Going with PVC.

Thanks.

ARM
1764
DaleHPerson was signed in when posted
04-17-2017
08:08 PM ET (US)
Mine were somewhat oversized epoxy/West 406 high density structural filler. Here's a link:

http://www.alistego.com/Alistego.com/bilge-board-cases-1.html

The pins are 1/2 inch stainless. They work fine. I've never had to do anything with the bilge boards at all since installing them.
1763
Liz Binet
04-17-2017
06:40 PM ET (US)
Mine was a bronze bush bought off the shelf and set with a graphite-epoxy mix. The pin was 16ml stainless pin.
1762
Ian Milne
04-17-2017
05:35 PM ET (US)
The copper pipe might be too soft, as well.
I made the bilge plate pins a bit bigger than in the plans, and I got an engineering firm to make bushes out of some kind of tough plastic, for the bilge plates and the rudder plate.
1761
Steve B
04-17-2017
01:52 PM ET (US)
Copper is more noble than steel, the plates will erode around the bushing.
1760
Andrew McGreal
04-16-2017
09:41 AM ET (US)
Hey guys.

Any reason not to use copper pipe for the bushing of the bilge plate pins?

Would be really simple if I could.

Cheers

ARM
^               1760-1775 of 1775  1744-1759 >>

Print | RSS Views: 54721 (Unique: 13738 ) / Subscribers: 18 | What's this?