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Eun Mara Builders Discussion

^               1853-1868 of 1868  1837-1852 >>
DaleHPerson was signed in when posted
05:28 PM ET (US)
Hi Alan, good to hear from you. I hope you're keeping safe in these trying times.

I ended up buying a 12 volt Minn Kota rated at 50 pounds thrust. It is this one: https://minnkotamotors.johnsonoutdoors.com...endura-max?id=13721

Mounting it in the boat was giving me fits as I wanted to keep our 2 stroke outboard in the well for open water/emergency use. I ended up buying this outboard mount from Edson Marine: https://www.marine.com/products/12-95201/e...wmounting-pad-small

So those are the players, now how did they work? As is typical for our boat, it didn't back worth beans no matter how I worked the rudder and trolling motor together. So that's the bad news. The good news was it was a dead reliable way of getting in and out of the marina in a no hassles, totally controlled stress-free way. You do need enough forward speed to get the rudder working but having dead reliable speed control in forward and reverse was so, so, nice, especially around other craft that don't understand the limitations of a sailboat. Fully charged, the 12v battery is more than up to this task. We didn't have to use anything like full power to keep moving along at a decent speed and I'd estimate we used the trolling motor for about 30 minutes for each time we entered/left the marina. We still use the 2 stroke for raising/lowering sails or to motor over to a more secluded piece of water.

In my opinion, the 85 pound unit at 24v would be pretty good even in some wind/wave situations but I would not be comfortable leaving the traditional outboard behind. I still need to know we can punch through some wind and waves if we need to.

Our boat stayed in its shed this year. If it wasn't storming or blasting 60 kph winds, there was heavy smoke from the west coast and BC fires or concerns over COVID. A pretty tough summer, to be sure. At least our canoes and kayaks got some good use!

Stay well everyone.

11:05 AM ET (US)
Dale. Would you please post your experience with using an electric troweling motor for propulsion? I am thinking of going to a Seamax 3hp, 24 volt (85 lbs) motor. I know it will get me in and out of the slip. I need a motor that will also keep me headed into the wind when I reef.

Seamax also had a 2 hp, 12 volt, 65 lbs unit.

Because I usually sail alone, when I need to reef I start the motor, head into the wind and engage the autopilot.

Of course I would appreciate hearing from anyone else that has gone this route.
BygglesPerson was signed in when posted
08:58 PM ET (US)
I’m looking for a new owner of my Eun na Mara plans and partially completed hull. In the hope that someone will take the project on to completion, I would like to give away the plans and very incomplete hull to whoever is able and willing to collect them. I do not wish to separate the two.
I’m also in possession of enough marine plywood to finish the boat and I will give preference to those that wish to purchase it at current cost.
If you are interested please email me. The location is Indiana 47932
JeremiahBoPerson was signed in when posted
08:46 PM ET (US)
Does anyone know where I can purchase the plans in the USA?
Ian Milne
03:33 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the news of "Ibis", David. It's good to hear that she has not been wasted.
David Osbourne
02:42 AM ET (US)
Gidday Everyone

I am the current owner of Yulinbilla, formerly Ibis from Perth. Built/Launched 2002. I have had my fun sailing this amazing sloop. It is time for her to be loved by a new owner. I have used her and she needs some TLC and minor carpentry done on hatches and so on... I have never had so much attention or admiration on the water than with this beauty. She was rebuilt from the deck up by legendary boat builder John Sayer on behalf of Pete Mounsey,the legendary "MILLION MILE MAN" whom I received the boat from, purchased a a 50th birthday present to myself. All registered on trailer in Queensland. I live on North Stradbroke Island as does the boat. Anyway, if among your networks you know of anyone who is looking for one or contemplating a build, this boat would represent less than half the cost of a build alone. Pete also put a 2010 20hp yanmar engine in it which gives the boat amazing stability with lower centre of gravity, not to mention long distance cruising capacity. This motor cost $16K to fit. I am looking for offers for the whole lot as is of around $25k ONO. 0412 028 475 Just thought I would ask you all fist before I do the whole Boatsales thing. In the meantime happy planning, building, sailing or just Eun Mara dreaming. Never has a little ship such as these inspired so much imagining... well thats just my biased opinion. Kind regards, David Osbourne
Ian Milne
04:21 PM ET (US)
Yes, Steve is right. My building frame was in four sections. When we turned our EM hull over, I took the middle two sections right out and put cradles at the remaining stations. (Stations 3 and 7, I think.)
12:47 PM ET (US)
One thing to think about ahead of time is how you will be moving the ballast under the hull. I say this because I didn't and had to mess around quite a bit with my building frame to get the lead in and out.
Ian Milne
04:32 PM ET (US)

Hi Stephen. Yes, I did my keel early because I didn't fancy having to do a lot of clambering around on the planked up hull, and it was also handy to be able to reach the nuts on the inner ends of the bolts or rods that hold the deadwood on, without too much gymnastics.

I agree with Steve about the ballast, entirely. I much prefer to have it as one casting. I think you can see how I did mine, on Richard's website, the same way that Dale did his on Alistego, I think. After the hull was turned over and holes drilled down through the floors and keelson I made a female mould, had it cast at a local foundry, brought it home on our common-garden trailer and parked it beside the boat, cleaned it up, faired it with epoxy, used a block and tackle to get it off the trailer onto low trolleys that I made out of bits of 4 x 2" with casters, pushed it under the boat, jacked it up into place, marked the positions of the bolt holes, took it out, drilled it, recessed the underside for square washers and the nuts, slathered it with a strong black industrial adhesive/sealant similar to 3M 5200, jacked it up and bolted it on. Well, it sounds easy when you say it fast, but it wasn't too bad. My Kotik's ballast is twice as heavy, so I did it a different way. You can see it on my WB thread. Allow for your ballast to shrink about 12mm in length as it cools.
Cheers, Ian
Stephen Becket
02:43 PM ET (US)
Steve, thanks for the advice. I will have a rethink. It certainly sounds less bitty than what I was proposing. I also need to find a smelter that will make the ballast for me. I’ll let you know! Appreciate your input.
11:40 AM ET (US)
By 3 laminations do you mean a center section with slots for the keel bolts and then matching port&starboard outer pieces? I've always found big glue-ups easier if done on the horizontal. When I built my keel I did a careful layout to place the bolts and epoxied them in as I built it up. The holes in the floors/keelson were oversized a bit to allow for some wiggle room and the whole thing was epoxied together while upside down. Once the boat was flipped I poured slightly thickened epoxy in the holes to fill, screwed down washers and bolts and finished the floors flush with more epoxy.

I think you'll find it less work to cast the ballast as one piece and use a pair of bottle jacks to push it into place. Making multiple molds all come together is going to be some fussy work. Lead machines pretty easily, slide the casting into place, run your drill down through the floors to mark the spots and take it back out. Use some plastic to create a work zone that will collect any chips, drill for the bolts, roll the ballast over and use a router and jig to countersink for the nuts. You will also most likely need to work the top of the ballast to get it flat. An old school lead autobody file will make short work of this. I bonded the ballast to the boat with 5200 and filled in the keelson holes with more epoxy, same thing for the counterbores on the bottom of the lead. The worst part was cleaning up the chips created by the router.
Stephen Becket
06:20 PM ET (US)
Ian, sorry for the slow reply. I had another look at your build. I’d seen it before and forgotten you’d done the keel early, so my ideas must have been influenced subliminally by yours. Thanks.
Stephen Becket
06:17 PM ET (US)
Hi Steve, I know how you feel. My boat building had to be put off a bit because of home renovations etc!

I’m building the boat in a carport with roll-up-able sides so access to each side, while tight is pretty easy. I have laid the base of the keel onto the keelson and am getting the ballast area flat and angled to 1.6 degrees as per the plan. That will give me the line for the remainder of the keel to the area of the deadwood. I’m thinking of drilling in the bolts and fixing them in position with 3M 5200, an adhesive and sealant used for securing through fittings. I worry that straight epoxy will be too brittle. This will give me a framework to build the keel on - rather like fixing reo bar in place before pouring concrete, although wood and concrete are different beasts. What this will do is enable me to keep the whole thing square.
I have also thought of getting the ballast cast in four pieces as four quadrants so that fixing the ballast to the bolts would be easier. The two sides would then be bolted together with stainless steel bolts and all the inner surfaces would be smothered in 5200. I would also key the ends to make them lock together. I just think trying to jack up 400 pounds of lead onto bolts, or drilling bolts accurately through it all, would be too difficult.

Any thoughts?
03:01 PM ET (US)
Glad to see construction is back on. No good reason not to get the keel on early, though assuming you are cutting and shaping the planks on one side of the boat you then have to lift one over the keel or walk it all the way around.

Not much sailing for me this season, I'm building a house this year and building in sweat equity by doing all the framing myself. It has been a long summer.

At some point this winter (after the roof is on) I have to figure out how to remove my stuck in the down position bilgeboards. I made them out of plywood with a lead core to keep them to the designed weight. My suspicion is that the ply has ballooned out from the lead so they no long fit back up into the trunk. With the pivots well below the water line I think there is a beaching involved.

Since my built-up boards are already pretty wide (1.25" roughly) I've been giving some serious thought to going all wood and creating foils instead of the flat boards they are now. Marianita does not point particularly well, I'm hoping more aerodynamic boards will help. I'll add some inside ballast to make up for the loss in the boards. Or I could just ditch them, adding about 4" depth to the keel would make up the loss of lateral plane but I'm not enough of a naval architect to know if that would help or hinder my search for better performance.
Edited 09-24-2019 03:03 PM
Ian Milne
04:00 AM ET (US)
That sounds pretty much like what I did, except the bulkheads. See my part of Richard's website <https://www.geoss.com.au/eun_mara/ian_dune...date_10_dec_2005>;, <http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php...tik-Kotik-Kotik!>; and <http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php...+Mara+gaff+yawl.>;
BTW, Alistego.com is by Dale, not Dan.
Edited 09-05-2019 04:12 AM
Stephen Becket
04:25 PM ET (US)
Ian and David, thanks for the encouragement!

Yes David, I have incorporated the laminated frames and plywood bulkheads into the moulds so that they will be glued in during planking. I thought that installing them afterwards would be nightmarish! I installed them for two reasons, 1. For ease of installation and alignment, and 2. To add extra stiffness to the moulding during planking. The uneven tensions on the moulds, planking each side alternatively, could lead to a ‘wobbly’ boat if the frame is not sufficiently braced. Mine is well braced but the forces are capable of pulling it out of alignment.

I had contemplated putting in the floors before planking but thought this would be better done after the garboards were in. With the floors in I am thinking of installing the keel, with the exception of the outer stem and stern, before I continue planking beyond the garboards. As the keel will be made up of three laminations splicing the ends in to ensure strength can be easily done. With the floors in I can incorporate the keel bolts into the build easily and working with only the garboards there it means I can work inside, and outside of the boat, conveniently. This is important as I’m working on my own. Obviously the ballast will be fitted afterwards when the boat is right side up! However having everything ready may make it easier to get the ballast cast correctly to fit my requirements.

The other advantage of building the keel early is that it will add stiffness to the framing during planking.

There is a great temptation to get the planking done as soon as possible but I am trying to think ahead of myself to save effort later.

I have been studying Richard from Canberra’s and Dan’s Alistego blogs to pick their brains!

Any suggestions, gents?
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