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Eun Mara Builders Discussion

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DaleHPerson was signed in when posted
09:22 PM ET (US)
Hi again Jim,

Last I heard of Paul and "Adagio", your boat, was this: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php...ck&highlight=Adagio Looks like he went in another direction and she looks to be a real beauty, too.

The stuff between your timbers does not sound like an adhesive, certainly not epoxy or 3M 5200. It sounds like it's a bedding compound and was just painted over once the keel bolts were tightened up and any drifts installed. The wood has likely shrunken up a bit and that's why you're getting that movement. While the joints seem iffy, the wood actually looks pretty good in the pictures. The way I see it you have a few choices. (1.) Loosen up the bolts and see what the wood is like, if sound apply a similar bedding compound in the joint, tighten up the bolts, clean up. prime and paint. So, the same as it is now but renewed. (2.) Disassemble, clean up and if sound, reassemble with epoxy/thickener, bolt.epoxy in place, apply a couple of layers of glass, seal, sand, and paint. (3.) Remove and using the wood pieces as a pattern, laminate up a new one with fresh material, cover with a couple of layers of fibreglass, epoxy/bolt it in place.

These are just a few ideas that occurred to me as I read and looked at the pictures. For the record, my entire keel/deadwood is laminated Douglas Fir saturated with epoxy, covered with a few layers of glass and epoxied/filleted to the hull along with oversized bronze bolts. Oversized because that's what I could get. I really know very little of any other method of constructing the boat's deadwood.

For the record, I'd never recommend epoxy or glass over paint no matter how scuffed up it is. You need to let the epoxy penetrate the wood then apply the glass. Careful about the epoxy "blush" after it cures up. I basically built my boat with the "Special UV Hardener" #207(?) to avoid the problem altogether.

I'm sure there will be other suggestions shortly. Good Luck!
Edited 09-16-2017 09:23 PM
Jim APerson was signed in when posted
12:15 PM ET (US)
I'm not sure how the link to photos will turn out you to view. Please let me know it it is adequate for viewing.

Thanks for the warm welcome,
I have Paul Frederiksens boat so I am sure you are familiar with her,
I did not receive the plans,
I have the stern post hung rudder.

If the link to the pictures work, what you see is the stern dead wood ( is that the right terminology?) going up to the stern post.
You can see in the pics with the paint what I originally could see. The seams looked not good. So I sanded it down (probably to much). The seams had a soft material in them. I am assuming it is the adhesive, I cleaned out some but more will need to be removed. You can also see where the deadwood meets the hull that there is some gaping there. The bottom timber is loose from the aft end to where I assume the first through bolt up to the keelson is. I can move the bottom timber back and forth slightly.

My thoughts are I can fill the voids with epoxy and then recoat the whole thing with epoxy.

Do you think I need to install a fastener from the bottom timber into the next timber up?
Can I fill the joint between the deadwood and hull with epoxy?
Should I use an glass?
Should I sand the entire dead wood to remove all the paint or can I just clean the seams, scuff the paint and epoxy over it?

I"m sure I have not covered it all but any help will be appreciated.

As far as materials go, I did the research and decided on West System. I have 105 gallon, 205 quart with the pumps. I bought a quantity of 6 oz cloth. I have some 406 Colloidal Silica filler and some syringes. That seemed like a pretty good starter kit.

Thanks in advance
Edited 09-16-2017 12:18 PM
Jim APerson was signed in when posted
11:57 AM ET (US)
  Messages 1790-1789 deleted by author between 09-16-2017 11:57 AM and 09-16-2017 11:54 AM
08:37 PM ET (US)
Yep. Welcome, Jim, and what Dale said.
Ian (ex EM Islesburgh).
DaleHPerson was signed in when posted
08:01 PM ET (US)
Hi Jim, and another big welcome to our little group! You'll literally find the world's most knowledgeable and helpful Eun Mara folks here.

You bought an Eun Mara? Well now I'm really curious as to where she was built and by whom, and whether your boat is one that we might be familiar with here. The design and plans have been available for quite awhile (1998?) now and already a few boats that changed hands over the years have resurfaced occasionally.

Did you receive the plans with your boat? If you're going to delve into the boat's innards they will be very useful to say the least. Do you have the inboard rudder version or is your rudder hung on the stern post?

Welcome again and look forward to seeing some pictures of your Eun Mara.

Welcome again,

Richard Almond
06:45 PM ET (US)
Hello Jim, and welcome to the forum. It's good to hear of another EM finding a good home. I'll be happy to post your photos on my web-site. Please email me directly at ralmond at-sign geoss.com.au. (Not sure why I'm trying to hide my email address. Every spammer and distribution list in the world seems to know it anyway.)

Jim A
04:09 PM ET (US)
Good afternoon,
   I have recently purchased an Eun Mara. It was more of a gift than a purchase since I got it for a song, but I do now own it. It has been in my possession for a few months now but have not had the time or finances to begin work on her. In those months I have spent time reading and researching about the boat. I am now ready to begin the few little projects and some modifications the she needs. I am a woodworker and a sailor but have little experience with wooden boats. I am sure that I will be able to do the required work I just want to make sure my processes and procedures are acceptable and seaworthy. After reading all the posts here and visiting the various websites I am confident that all the answers I need will be found on this board if y'all are willing to tolerate me.
   I backed her up to my shop and started on the aft deadwood and rudder. The boat has been sitting for a number of years. there is a cover but the rudder was exposed to the elements. I have it removed and prepped for re glassing. That i think will be pretty straight forward.
   As for the deadwood I will be easier to use pictures. What is the best process for showing pictures to everyone. I do not have a website and I am not what you would call tech savvy.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Andrew McGreal
09:57 PM ET (US)
I kept the cabin the same. That answers my question. Thanks Steve. Not making the canals this year. Sigh. But it was mostly a dream to make me work harder. Cabin sides done. Cockpit shaping up.


Steve B
01:22 PM ET (US)
I used the beams to determine where the panels split. As I remember it, I used three pieces, one from the forward face of the cabin back to the beam forming the forward edge of the companionway with a smaller piece to the port and starboard side. But you revised the cabin layout, right?
Ian Milne
05:34 AM ET (US)
Thanks, Richard. Good work, Edwin! Andrew, I put the join in my roofpanels along the line of one of my handrails.
Andrew McGreal
12:05 AM ET (US)
Sails arrived. Seem good. Just need a boat to put them on.

Question: for the roof panels, is it better to put the split longitudinally, or across the beam?


Richard Almond
03:48 AM ET (US)
Hello all.

I have put some more of Edwin's photos on my web-site. Follow the June 2017 link from http://www.geoss.com.au/eun_mara/edwin.htm.

Andrew McGreal
11:03 AM ET (US)

Here in Canada everyone seems to know Michelle. My friend who is going to go on my adventure with me on a Flicka, is getting his sails done with her. I just assumed her prices would be too dear, but sounds like she is very fair. I am going with a guy in Kingston. 2500 tax included. Only 2 sails, but with it being 2017 I think it is reasonable. If the sails work out well I will let out the name.


Edited 06-20-2017 01:53 PM
DaleHPerson was signed in when posted
08:31 PM ET (US)
Hey Andrew! Sorry to be so slow but I was out kayaking over the long weekend.

We had our sails made by the Michele Stevens loft in Lunenburg NS. If I recall correctly the main, mizzen and standard jib cost about $2500 CAN back in 2004. I simply cannot say enough about these sails. They are as perfect as any I've seen anywhere with many thoughtful details that only an experienced offshore sailor/sail maker would think of including. If their sails are good enough for the Bluenose II they certainly meet my spec. Unlike most modern sail lofts, they "get" traditional boats and know what they need. I cannot imagine any other sails on our boat, to be honest. Good folks and very easy to work with.

As far as reefing the jib goes, a jib furler makes sense but the sail has to be made for it and it's a complexity I didn't need so I had Michele and Co make me a small jib just for when the wind blows and we are fully reefed on the main. Michele made the small jib for $340 or so, a couple of years after our first suit of sails were done. For our "calm one minute and gale force the next" spring winds we just set her up with a double reefed main, the small jib and no mizzen. Just leave it furled up or leave it off altogether. Remember, Iain designed her with probably too much sail so you need to shorten sail up some just to get to what is "normal".
Ian Milne
05:55 PM ET (US)
Hi Edwin, You can see my bowsprit and jib rigging here: http://www.geoss.com.au/eun_mara/ian_dunedin15.htm and other photos on this part of Richard's website. (Thanks, Richard.) I also had an inner forestay shackled to the lower mast band and cleated on the tabernacle, port side. It was long enough to thread through the ring on the stem and lash back to the mast after I had raised it, to support it until I had the forestay done up, and again before I undid the forestay to lower the mast. I also used the inner forestay a couple of times as intended, with the No.2 jib hanked on and the reefed main, (jib and mizzen furled). She sailed well like that.
Cheers, Ian
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