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| Philip
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1936
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03-12-2010 04:26 AM ET (US)
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Hi folks,
I'm looking for my long lost Ponton (my first benz). I sold it to a guy in Santa Rosa Calif in 1978 and he (Rich Balswick) sold it again about 1979. He doesn't remember whom he sold it to. It is a 1960 190b Silver paint with a dyed red interior.
Do you know this car and where it is? If so email me please.
Thank you!
Philip
flip197@gmail.com |  | |
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| Rich Splaine
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1935
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03-11-2010 08:25 AM ET (US)
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Another possible cause for difficulty finding gears- There is a plastic bushing at the innner end of the shift lever that deteriorates with age and use, causing difficult shifting. This can easily be replaced: the chrome piece at the point where the shift lever enters the steering column can be unscrewed it he normal fashion (Lefty-loosy, righty-tighty). Normally, this can be removed with fingers only- use a wrench only as a last resort to prevent damage to the chrome. Once this is chrome piece is removed the shift lever can be pulled out of its socket and you will see what remains of the plastic bushing. I got one recently from Miller's (millermbz.com). Cost was $6.18. Miller's part number is 26-002. The Mercedes part number is 111 268 00 92, and it is called "ball cup".
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| Ron Bunting
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1934
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03-10-2010 04:37 PM ET (US)
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Jim,It will be the two bushes on top of the trans where you can't see them. The best approach is to lower the trans and replace them. An altogether long job but worth it.
< replied-to message removed by QT >
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| mogedy@ix.netcom.com
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1933
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03-10-2010 04:20 PM ET (US)
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Jim -- you probably need to adjust your shift lever linkages, which can be reached easily under the hood. The procedure is called out in the MB 190 repair/service manual. It may take a little fiddling so you can get into all gears, but it's really pretty straightforward. Brad
< replied-to message removed by QT >
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| Jim Vargo
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1932
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03-10-2010 03:35 PM ET (US)
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I am having trouble getting my 1959 220se ponton into reverse and 1st gear.My first thoughts were that the bushings on the transmission levers were bad. They appear to be fine. I am looking for suggestions as to where to look next. Advice is appreciated. Thanks Jim V.
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| Ron Bunting
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1931
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02-28-2010 04:06 PM ET (US)
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1956 with Webasto sliding roof and the 3949th car built that year . < replied-to message removed by QT >
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| norvin
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1930
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02-28-2010 01:08 PM ET (US)
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trying to tighten the fan belt but can't get the two locking nuts to budge after loosening the securing bolt...i sprayed some wd40 without easy success..i don't want to damage anything...maybe just need more muscle...it's still lefty-loosy for those two overlapping locking nuts, right? thanks!
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| Ted Greenberg
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1929
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02-28-2010 12:24 PM ET (US)
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Got the hood open. The chassis number from the rail by the radiator looks like 18001.16503949 Does this look right? any data on the car ?
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| norvin
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1928
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02-21-2010 03:42 PM ET (US)
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shan thanks for your input...the aftermarket lighter well did work, i just mistakenly switched the two wires and after replacing the blown 25 amp fuse(#2), i am now jamming to my tunes! yeah! norvin
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| shanvks
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1927
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02-20-2010 10:26 AM ET (US)
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Hi Norvin, The lighter in the potons do not have the +12V contact at the bottom centre of the cylinder as in modern cig lighters. So your ipod charger which has a knob at the centre does not connect to the +12V lead. Shan.
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| norvin
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1926
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02-07-2010 10:50 PM ET (US)
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i'm having a hard time figuring out why my ipod will not charge through the cig lighter of my '58 219...the lighter was getting hot but when i plugged in the charger, i couldn't get any "juice" to charge..the wire connections and fuse appear intact..finally, i replaced the entire lighter-well with a new aftermarket from the local auto store and still could not get it to charge..i tried with just the battery on and while the engine was running without success...maybe somebody out there has an idea what i'm doing wrong...thanks!
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| soldbydon
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1925
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02-03-2010 12:21 AM ET (US)
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Ted, if you don't have local luck, grab pictures of the interior and anything you can shoot of the chassis, since these cars are rust-prone, especially floor pans, rear suspension mounts and headlight areas. Then list the car on eBay and offer to sell internationally. The Europeans are buying up good shells when they have minimal chassis rust. I watched a junk Arizona 220S from last summer apparently not sell thru eBay but later get shipped to Europe and the reserve price was set at over 5K USD on the eBay Germany site re-list. All someone wanted was a good shell to re-market in Germany.
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| Ted Greenberg
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1924
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02-02-2010 06:12 AM ET (US)
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I have 1956 220S that needs a new home .I dont know if it runs. I rented a garage to a guy who defaulted on the rent and did not respond to any attempts to reach him. After a court eviction, I now own this car. I have no keys and have not been able to get the hood open. It does roll once I replaced a bad inner tube. We pushed out of the garage for the photos. Link for photos is : http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy154/vincent2125/The car is in Phila, just off US 1 (city Ave) and RT 30 (Lancaster Ave). I got stiffed for about $1,800 in rent and court costs. I am up for any offer that will help cover my loss or best offer that free up the garage for another tenant. I am losing money every month it sits. I should be a good parts car if not a project car Feel free to contact me, 215 813- 2005.
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| DallasRob
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1923
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01-27-2010 04:40 PM ET (US)
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| Ron Bunting
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1922
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01-25-2010 11:30 PM ET (US)
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Back in the day the Ford Twin bbl carb was bolted on .These days they cost more than a whole car... Redline performance sell Weber conversions for Mercedes.
< replied-to message removed by QT >
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| Steven Holtel
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1921
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01-25-2010 10:47 PM ET (US)
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Have had a carb rebuild kit installed but car still runs rough. I would like to find a cost effective solution. I do not have enough skill to tackle this myself. Is there a weber replacement or otherwise? Would a 2bbl carb work? Ideas?
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