Thanks John! I really haven't had a chance to inspect it more thourougly other than just the outside. I noticed some bondo by the fuel door. The emblem on the hood is gone. One of the rear lights is broken. The fender directional on the right is in tact. Will take a pic later and post!

tony, you need to critically evaluate the condition of the car before anyone can put forth a price. Be brutal. The rust is the prime issue. give it a thorough evaluation, from beneath the car and by removing floorboards and seeing what is happening on the pans, firewall, cross braces, door bottoms and junction of front door pillars and the sills. Did battery acid eat away at the sill and allow water to leak inside and rust all the shelving below? stuff like that. Does it run (don't berlirve the seller if he says it ran a few years back. Does te engine turn freely? I ignored the rust on my first two purchases and they both had to become donor cars to feed the rust-free third acquisition. four I paid $1100 for both, about the same as the price of rechroming door handles. If your prospect is rusty, but has plenty of good chrome and other parts, make a lowball offer and start reading the recent posts on loosening rusty nuts and bolts while looking for a better example to restore. Hubcaps and headliners are totally irrelevant. Go for body integrity, mechanics and make a realistic list of what it will really take to put it on the road. Don't be seduced. In our eyes they are all beautiful..."even ze orchestra is beautiful."�A;�A;--- On Mon, 11/2/09, QT - Tony <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com> wrote:�A;�A;> From: QT - Tony <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>�A;> Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)�A;> To: "QT topic subscribers" <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>�A;> Date: Monday, November 2, 2009, 9:57 AM�A;> --QT-------------------------------------------------------------�A;> &#A0; &#A0; &#A0; Reply by email or visit�A;> &#A0; &#A0; &#A0; http://www.quicktopic.com/8/H/KaeCj5npbQFQw/m1814�A;>; ------------------------------------------------------------- ---�A;> �A;> I found a 180 4 door sedan. Looks pretty rough around the�A;> edges.�A;> But its still beautiful in my eyes. Headliner need redone.�A;> Some�A;> body rust. Has hubcaps inside car. Does anyone know what�A;> these�A;> are worth in this shape?�A;> _________________________________________________________________�A;> To unsubscribe: http://www.quicktopic.com/8/X/KaeCj5npbQFQw�A;>; Start your own topic in 20 seconds: http://www.quicktopic.com |QT�A;> �A;�A;�A;

I found a 180 4 door sedan. Looks pretty rough around the edges. But its still beautiful in my eyes. Headliner need redone. Some body rust. Has hubcaps inside car. Does anyone know what these are worth in this shape?

Julio, if you mean the rubber seal for the front windshield (vieu) or (view), then I can send you an original MB seal for $110 including postage. Is this for a sedan 180? Thanks Phil. I believe you bought a starter from me before.

 I HAVE A GENERATOR 1953 FOR SALE PUERTO RICO. MERCEDEZ BENZ

I am looking rubber seal vieu front mercedes benz 1955, if any body can help me ? please thanks julio

Gehlhaar- I have several vintage M-B thermostat housings, but I'm not familiar with the 180 cars. If you send me a photo or drawing of what you need I will compare to what I have in stock. oldbenz1@aol.com

Does anyone have or know where I can get a good working thermostate for my 1956 Mercedes-Benz 180D. It is a metal housing that holds a thermostate that connects between the radiator and block and also has a small bypass hose that connects to the lower block.

Thank you very much. I actually have some Camo Brown spray paint in the garage.


________________________________
From: QT - soldbydon <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>
To: QT topic subscribers <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 9:52:10 PM
Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)

< replied-to message removed by QT >

Restoring the bakelite - the simpler way! Here's what to do. Original bakelite was glossy; it loses its gloss over time and most of us prefer a non-reflective matte finish for safety reasons on the dash and window trim. Clean up the original with lacquer thinner and sand any rough spots; epoxy any cracks and sand smooth. Purchase a can of Krylon Camouflage Brown spray paint for about $6 from your local hardware store or Amazon.com and spray the bakelite; the color should nearly match the original. Since the sprayed finish is matte, you'l need to clearcoat it with a gloss enamel if you wnat more gloss. My Pontons are show winners without any additional gloss, just the Krylon matte finish. Works great!

Anyone have advice on glow plugs for diesel engines? I was having increasing troubles starting my '59 180D and found that my plug wiring had been installed incorrectly (idiotically), shorting out plugs 2&3 because the bus bars were touching rather than separated by the ceramic insulators! I can't believe I was able to start it at all. I wired everything correctly and checked all the plugs and replaced two with new ones I bought for spares, and ordered two more. It starts much better now but still a little rough. Two questions:
1) What plugs can be used these days? The original spec is for Bosch KE/GA/1/8 or Beru 214GK= MB 000 159 06 01, hard to find. I'm using the loop (series) plug for later models like 240D- Bosch KE/GA1/21, Beru 382GK, MB 000 159 61 01. Are these OK or do they draw too many amps and burn out the main resistor etc? Has anyone upgraded to the parallel/hotplug set sold for later 1970s models?
2) Checking the plugs with a meter, should the electrodes always be open to ground (threads), or is some continuity/resistance OK? The new ones are open circuit from electrode to outside threads, full continuity at the power leads.

Rich,�A;�A;Thank you for the detailed explanation. I am going to try your method. I am missing a few pieces of the Bakelite and when I get them will do the whole set at one time. The dash where the knobs is seems to be metal but I am sure it will finish the same as the Bakelite.�A;�A;�A;�A;�A;________________________________�A;From: QT - Rich Splaine <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>�A;To: QT topic subscribers <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>�A;Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 5:10:32 PM�A;Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)�A;�A;--QT-------------------------------------------------------------�A;&#A0; &#A0; &#A0; Reply by email or visit�A;&#A0; &#A0; &#A0; http://www.quicktopic.com/8/H/KaeCj5npbQFQw/m1804�A;--------------------------------------------------------------- -�A;�A;Contrary to what John said, I have had very good luck and no�A;peeling problems by using the following method to renew Bakelite�A;parts: first a thorough cleaning to reomove any&#A0; wax or oily�A;residue as well as accumulated dirt must be done.&#A0; Wipe with a�A;clean cloth that is dampened with lacquer thinner or acetone. �A;Do this a couple of times, using a clean cloth each time.&#A0; Wear�A;latex or cotton gloves to keep oil from your fingers from�A;contaminating the Bakelite.&#A0; Next, lightly rough up the surface�A;with steel wool or very fine sandpaper.&#A0; At this point, the�A;Bakelite will not look very good, but don't worry.&#A0; After�A;insuring that all old wax, oil, and dirt are gone and the�A;surface is slightly abraded by the sanding or steel wool to�A;insure good adhesion, wipe away any lint or dust and then�A;lightly spray on a coat or two of lacquer or clear acrylic. �A;This can be purchased in aerosol cans at any hardware store. �A;You will be amazed and verfy pleased by the result.&#A0; As with any�A;aerosol spray paint, application is the key- avoid heavy coats�A;which will run and spoil the final finish.&#A0; Likewise, if you�A;have properly cleaned the Bakelite, there will be no "fish eyes"�A;or other defects but if there are, simpoly wipe off the paint�A;with lacquer thinner and start over.&#A0; �A;_________________________________________________________________�A;To unsubscribe: http://www.quicktopic.com/8/X/KaeCj5npbQFQw�A;Start your own topic in 20 seconds: http://www.quicktopic.com |QT�A;

Contrary to what John said, I have had very good luck and no peeling problems by using the following method to renew Bakelite parts: first a thorough cleaning to reomove any wax or oily residue as well as accumulated dirt must be done. Wipe with a clean cloth that is dampened with lacquer thinner or acetone. Do this a couple of times, using a clean cloth each time. Wear latex or cotton gloves to keep oil from your fingers from contaminating the Bakelite. Next, lightly rough up the surface with steel wool or very fine sandpaper. At this point, the Bakelite will not look very good, but don't worry. After insuring that all old wax, oil, and dirt are gone and the surface is slightly abraded by the sanding or steel wool to insure good adhesion, wipe away any lint or dust and then lightly spray on a coat or two of lacquer or clear acrylic. This can be purchased in aerosol cans at any hardware store. You will be amazed and verfy pleased by the result. As with any aerosol spray paint, application is the key- avoid heavy coats which will run and spoil the final finish. Likewise, if you have properly cleaned the Bakelite, there will be no "fish eyes" or other defects but if there are, simpoly wipe off the paint with lacquer thinner and start over.

They go to the heater cores. Obviously you don't have the correct routing of the hoses.
< replied-to message removed by QT >

I need a little more info on the unused tubes. exactly where on the assembly are they? as for the bakelite, I don't think there was ever a woodlike coating on it. There are several levels of restoration that work on the material. The stuff is the earliest form of plastic and has a cellulose filler in it. Moisture can affect the surface. The IPOG site and message archives have some suggestions ranging from buffing the bakelite on a stationary machine with polishing compound to using fine steel wool and armorall for a more satin look. Don't try paint or clear coatings. They peel off. Take one piece out and try a few things and realize that the material is very brittle. With patience and care, the stuff comes up nicely. �A;--- On Mon, 10/26/09, QT - Steven J Holtel Holtel <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com> wrote:�A;�A;> From: QT - Steven J Holtel Holtel <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>�A;> Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)�A;> To: "QT topic subscribers" <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>�A;> Date: Monday, October 26, 2009, 6:01 AM�A;> --QT-------------------------------------------------------------�A;> &#A0; &#A0; &#A0; Reply by email or visit�A;> &#A0; &#A0; &#A0; http://www.quicktopic.com/8/H/KaeCj5npbQFQw/m1801�A;>; ------------------------------------------------------------- ---�A;> �A;> I got it fixed and thank you, The thing that threw me was�A;> the 2�A;> unused tubes on the top metal tube that is mounted to the�A;> firewall. What do they do? �A;> The Bakelite has lost the top wood look film from it and I�A;> need�A;> to do something. Any suggestions? �A;> �A;> �A;> ________________________________�A;> From: QT - soldbydon �A;> To: QT topic subscribers �A;> Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 10:01:58 PM�A;> Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)�A;> _________________________________________________________________�A;> To unsubscribe: http://www.quicktopic.com/8/X/KaeCj5npbQFQw�A;>; Start your own topic in 20 seconds: http://www.quicktopic.com |QT�A;> �A;�A;�A;

I got it fixed and thank you, The thing that threw me was the 2 unused tubes on the top metal tube that is mounted to the firewall. What do they do?
The Bakelite has lost the top wood look film from it and I need to do something. Any suggestions?


________________________________
From: QT - soldbydon <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>
To: QT topic subscribers <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 10:01:58 PM
Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)

< replied-to message removed by QT >