It will be on the panel in front of the firewall ,just above the engine with a bakelite cover about 6 inches long. If you have power brakes it will be beside the booster.

< replied-to message removed by QT >

Dear MBZ fellows,
I am restoring a 220SE Cab 1960 (W128), originally a USA car. 4 relais are missing on the left side of the brake booster. 4 bundles of colored cables come out of the wall from the interior of the car, they have tags as follows: Turn signal flasher unit (4 cables) Electromagnetic starter valve relay (5 cables) Automatic starting aid relay (8 cables) Time switch (3 cables). Which relais should I look for?
Does anybody know where to get repair kits for Bosch fuel feed pump for this car? Bosch FP/ESB 5RC25/12 A1.
Best regards from Norway

I have decided to give up on the idea of restoring a 1959 ponton 180d.I actually got to drive it around a little and found it to be a lot of fun.It starts, runs and shifts nicely. I do not think that the severe frame cancer is repairable but this would make a wonderfull parts car. It is pretty complete. I would sell like to get $1500 out of it. If interested call Terry 904-291-4529

I have a couple of 1958 220s cars in Albuquerque NM that need to be restored that I would like to try to sell. The transmission and starter, pedal assembly are out of one of the cars ( the parts were used to convert another 220s from Hydrak to standard shift. The other is a Hydrak car intact, missing a carburetor. The wood is all there but not installed. Both have hardly any rust, no broken glass or missing chrome. I don't have the $$ to restore them so I'm trying to sell them. $1500 for either car. Contact Larry at lfernan@unm.edu if interested.

I took apart the heater boxes on my 1959 190 and all the rubber heater hoses had to be replaced. I took my old parts to the store and got new stuff but I am having trouble remembering how it goes back together. Yea I should have taken a picture...
There is a metal T with 2 long hoses (20 inches) and a shorter hose (8 inches) and the tube which comes off of the radiator main line. The heater boxes were rusty so I cleaned them up. There were 2 short hoses (6 inches) which I think went from the bottom of each heater core to the metal tube (lower portion) which runs along the firewall behind the engine. There are 2 metal (upper portion) tubes which also run along the firewall and I think two of the ends from the metal T connect to them and the 3rd end attaches to the tube splitting off the radiator main line. Does anyone know if I have this correct? I thought I'd wait until tomorrow to hook this up.

steve, the group must all be late to dinner tonight, so nothing is forthcoming from them. I will give it my humble try. First. forget about hoses for a minute and look at the two metal pipe systems that mount to the firewal. The pipe with a stem jutting from the center sits above the other. mount them loosely on the firewall and look toward the spark plugs and the elbow that juts out of the block. coolant goes from there to the middle stem on top and goes each way to each heater box and is adjusted by a valve and passes through the box to an outlet below and to each end of the bottom pipe at the bottom of the heater box. After that it goes back to the system at the radiator hose connection. measure the open spaces and you gave your hose lengths. keep all loose until it all fits, follow the money (coolant flow) and you should have it all together. hope this helps, jv�A;�A;--- On Sat, 10/24/09, QT - Steve Holtel <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com> wrote:�A;�A;> From: QT - Steve Holtel <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>�A;> Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)�A;> To: "QT topic subscribers" <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>�A;> Date: Saturday, October 24, 2009, 2:43 PM�A;> --QT-------------------------------------------------------------�A;> &#A0; &#A0; &#A0; Reply by email or visit�A;> &#A0; &#A0; &#A0; http://www.quicktopic.com/8/H/KaeCj5npbQFQw/m1797�A;>; ------------------------------------------------------------- ---�A;> �A;> I took apart the heater boxes on my 1959 190 and all the�A;> rubber�A;> heater hoses had to be replaced. I took my old parts to�A;> the�A;> store and got new stuff but I am having trouble remembering�A;> how�A;> it goes back together. Yea I should have taken a�A;> picture...�A;> There is a metal T with 2 long hoses (20 inches) and a�A;> shorter�A;> hose (8 inches) and the tube which comes off of the�A;> radiator�A;> main line. The heater boxes were rusty so I cleaned them�A;> up.�A;> There were 2 short hoses (6 inches) which I think went from�A;> the�A;> bottom of each heater core to the metal tube (lower�A;> portion)�A;> which runs along the firewall behind the engine. There are�A;> 2�A;> metal (upper portion) tubes which also run along the�A;> firewall�A;> and I think two of the ends from the metal T connect to�A;> them and�A;> the 3rd end attaches to the tube splitting off the radiator�A;> main�A;> line. Does anyone know if I have this correct? I thought�A;> I'd�A;> wait until tomorrow to hook this up.�A;> _________________________________________________________________�A;> To unsubscribe: http://www.quicktopic.com/8/X/KaeCj5npbQFQw�A;>; Start your own topic in 20 seconds: http://www.quicktopic.com |QT�A;> �A;�A;�A;

John

Thank you for your help!!!!!! I will assemble them today..



________________________________
From: QT - john valterza <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>
To: QT topic subscribers <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 10:20:20 PM
Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)

�A;�A;�A;
_________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe: http://www.quicktopic.com/8/X/KaeCj5npbQFQw
Start your own topic in 20 seconds: http://www.quicktopic.com |QT < replied-to message removed by QT >

Steve - If you are still stuck I can grab a few pix of mine and email them to you. I need to take pix of the good, already restored car anyway since I'll be restoring a couple other 190 Pontons shortly with the same issues as you have.

I got it fixed and thank you, The thing that threw me was the 2 unused tubes on the top metal tube that is mounted to the firewall. What do they do?
The Bakelite has lost the top wood look film from it and I need to do something. Any suggestions?


________________________________
From: QT - soldbydon <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>
To: QT topic subscribers <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 10:01:58 PM
Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)

< replied-to message removed by QT >

I need a little more info on the unused tubes. exactly where on the assembly are they? as for the bakelite, I don't think there was ever a woodlike coating on it. There are several levels of restoration that work on the material. The stuff is the earliest form of plastic and has a cellulose filler in it. Moisture can affect the surface. The IPOG site and message archives have some suggestions ranging from buffing the bakelite on a stationary machine with polishing compound to using fine steel wool and armorall for a more satin look. Don't try paint or clear coatings. They peel off. Take one piece out and try a few things and realize that the material is very brittle. With patience and care, the stuff comes up nicely. �A;--- On Mon, 10/26/09, QT - Steven J Holtel Holtel <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com> wrote:�A;�A;> From: QT - Steven J Holtel Holtel <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>�A;> Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)�A;> To: "QT topic subscribers" <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>�A;> Date: Monday, October 26, 2009, 6:01 AM�A;> --QT-------------------------------------------------------------�A;> &#A0; &#A0; &#A0; Reply by email or visit�A;> &#A0; &#A0; &#A0; http://www.quicktopic.com/8/H/KaeCj5npbQFQw/m1801�A;>; ------------------------------------------------------------- ---�A;> �A;> I got it fixed and thank you, The thing that threw me was�A;> the 2�A;> unused tubes on the top metal tube that is mounted to the�A;> firewall. What do they do? �A;> The Bakelite has lost the top wood look film from it and I�A;> need�A;> to do something. Any suggestions? �A;> �A;> �A;> ________________________________�A;> From: QT - soldbydon �A;> To: QT topic subscribers �A;> Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 10:01:58 PM�A;> Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)�A;> _________________________________________________________________�A;> To unsubscribe: http://www.quicktopic.com/8/X/KaeCj5npbQFQw�A;>; Start your own topic in 20 seconds: http://www.quicktopic.com |QT�A;> �A;�A;�A;

They go to the heater cores. Obviously you don't have the correct routing of the hoses.
< replied-to message removed by QT >

Contrary to what John said, I have had very good luck and no peeling problems by using the following method to renew Bakelite parts: first a thorough cleaning to reomove any wax or oily residue as well as accumulated dirt must be done. Wipe with a clean cloth that is dampened with lacquer thinner or acetone. Do this a couple of times, using a clean cloth each time. Wear latex or cotton gloves to keep oil from your fingers from contaminating the Bakelite. Next, lightly rough up the surface with steel wool or very fine sandpaper. At this point, the Bakelite will not look very good, but don't worry. After insuring that all old wax, oil, and dirt are gone and the surface is slightly abraded by the sanding or steel wool to insure good adhesion, wipe away any lint or dust and then lightly spray on a coat or two of lacquer or clear acrylic. This can be purchased in aerosol cans at any hardware store. You will be amazed and verfy pleased by the result. As with any aerosol spray paint, application is the key- avoid heavy coats which will run and spoil the final finish. Likewise, if you have properly cleaned the Bakelite, there will be no "fish eyes" or other defects but if there are, simpoly wipe off the paint with lacquer thinner and start over.

Rich,�A;�A;Thank you for the detailed explanation. I am going to try your method. I am missing a few pieces of the Bakelite and when I get them will do the whole set at one time. The dash where the knobs is seems to be metal but I am sure it will finish the same as the Bakelite.�A;�A;�A;�A;�A;________________________________�A;From: QT - Rich Splaine <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>�A;To: QT topic subscribers <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>�A;Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 5:10:32 PM�A;Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)�A;�A;--QT-------------------------------------------------------------�A;&#A0; &#A0; &#A0; Reply by email or visit�A;&#A0; &#A0; &#A0; http://www.quicktopic.com/8/H/KaeCj5npbQFQw/m1804�A;--------------------------------------------------------------- -�A;�A;Contrary to what John said, I have had very good luck and no�A;peeling problems by using the following method to renew Bakelite�A;parts: first a thorough cleaning to reomove any&#A0; wax or oily�A;residue as well as accumulated dirt must be done.&#A0; Wipe with a�A;clean cloth that is dampened with lacquer thinner or acetone. �A;Do this a couple of times, using a clean cloth each time.&#A0; Wear�A;latex or cotton gloves to keep oil from your fingers from�A;contaminating the Bakelite.&#A0; Next, lightly rough up the surface�A;with steel wool or very fine sandpaper.&#A0; At this point, the�A;Bakelite will not look very good, but don't worry.&#A0; After�A;insuring that all old wax, oil, and dirt are gone and the�A;surface is slightly abraded by the sanding or steel wool to�A;insure good adhesion, wipe away any lint or dust and then�A;lightly spray on a coat or two of lacquer or clear acrylic. �A;This can be purchased in aerosol cans at any hardware store. �A;You will be amazed and verfy pleased by the result.&#A0; As with any�A;aerosol spray paint, application is the key- avoid heavy coats�A;which will run and spoil the final finish.&#A0; Likewise, if you�A;have properly cleaned the Bakelite, there will be no "fish eyes"�A;or other defects but if there are, simpoly wipe off the paint�A;with lacquer thinner and start over.&#A0; �A;_________________________________________________________________�A;To unsubscribe: http://www.quicktopic.com/8/X/KaeCj5npbQFQw�A;Start your own topic in 20 seconds: http://www.quicktopic.com |QT�A;

Anyone have advice on glow plugs for diesel engines? I was having increasing troubles starting my '59 180D and found that my plug wiring had been installed incorrectly (idiotically), shorting out plugs 2&3 because the bus bars were touching rather than separated by the ceramic insulators! I can't believe I was able to start it at all. I wired everything correctly and checked all the plugs and replaced two with new ones I bought for spares, and ordered two more. It starts much better now but still a little rough. Two questions:
1) What plugs can be used these days? The original spec is for Bosch KE/GA/1/8 or Beru 214GK= MB 000 159 06 01, hard to find. I'm using the loop (series) plug for later models like 240D- Bosch KE/GA1/21, Beru 382GK, MB 000 159 61 01. Are these OK or do they draw too many amps and burn out the main resistor etc? Has anyone upgraded to the parallel/hotplug set sold for later 1970s models?
2) Checking the plugs with a meter, should the electrodes always be open to ground (threads), or is some continuity/resistance OK? The new ones are open circuit from electrode to outside threads, full continuity at the power leads.

Restoring the bakelite - the simpler way! Here's what to do. Original bakelite was glossy; it loses its gloss over time and most of us prefer a non-reflective matte finish for safety reasons on the dash and window trim. Clean up the original with lacquer thinner and sand any rough spots; epoxy any cracks and sand smooth. Purchase a can of Krylon Camouflage Brown spray paint for about $6 from your local hardware store or Amazon.com and spray the bakelite; the color should nearly match the original. Since the sprayed finish is matte, you'l need to clearcoat it with a gloss enamel if you wnat more gloss. My Pontons are show winners without any additional gloss, just the Krylon matte finish. Works great!

Thank you very much. I actually have some Camo Brown spray paint in the garage.


________________________________
From: QT - soldbydon <qtopic-8-KaeCj5npbQFQw@quicktopic.com>
To: QT topic subscribers <qtopic-subs@quicktopic.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 9:52:10 PM
Subject: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962)

< replied-to message removed by QT >