Edited by author 05-23-2009 08:02 PM

Dash board remnants ..
You can see where my lock is,I had undone the column strap to lower it away from the lock bolt so I could back into my shop and see how it ran. It runs really well considering the last time it was fired was in 1978. There are the usual problems like leaky side plates,one new plate was included in the junk in the car,but the rings and valves are all good and the oil pressure at 180 was 45 on the gauge.A leak down test before I fired it was indicating a blown gasket between 5 and 6 .No big deal I think.

yes it is,the direct opposite of yours. I have pics in my camera I'll post up tomorrow of the sorry mess inside the car after 30 years in a rat infested barn... ;-(

Is your keylock on the left side of the column?

Hi,Mine is out already,as I had to drive the car into the shop to begin work on it, a bit hard when you can't steer it .I'll have to talk to MB I guess and get it's data card. The local locksmith wanted to dismantle it(!) . No chance I told him!.
Normally they just use a door handle and make me keys to fit those for my other mercedes(s) because the doors are often the same as the ignition. I understand that is not the case with pontons. Cheers!!

220A on the 16th May 2009.

Edited by author 05-23-2009 09:11 AM
Because this one was cracked, surgery was attemped to diagnose the patient. The pins couldn't be removed and the patient was given a decent burial. Should your dealer not be willing to get you a key. emai me at phil_langlois@verizon.net for further confidential instructions. Phil

Edited by author 05-23-2009 09:06 AM
This is how it looks out of the car. The nuts that secure it are accessed from behind the speedo group. It is best to remove the steering wheel for earier access. Under the hood are the springs that release the cluster. Disconnect the speedo cable and oip pressure guage, push the cluster out from the back and access the nuts on the keylock studs from inside the cluster cabity. There is also a nut that secures the band strap.

You might first want to visit the parts manager at your local MB dealer. with your title in hand and the correct VIN for your car, he is able to order from the classic center an ignition key for around $50. I have done this on several occassions for ponton cars. The key wont be pretty, but it works. I have some spare key locks available if needed/wanted. These units are pinned together in at least 6 areas and are to my knowledge and expereience not rebuildable.

Hi,yes mine is like that but opposite as it's right hand drive ( Delivered new to Stockholm) ,not cracked either... :-) .my lock barrel sits flush with the barrel if that makes any difference. Cheers!

keylock

Hi, I am restoring a 220A and have plenty of questions but the first is...how do I remove the lock barrel from the column bracket? The pages I need are missing from my workshop manual and this car came without keys .

I need a new or rebuilt Bosch voltage regulator for a '56 220S. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Regarding repair of a rusted-thru floor on a Ponton- having owned and operated a mercedes-only restoration shop for 15 years, and rebuilt nearly 100 cars,I have extensive experience rebuilding rotted undercarriages. If the floors are rotted thru, you can be reasonably assured that there is more damage than you might think. Frame members will also be in bad condition and it's likely the car is unsafe to drive. Of particular concern are the points where the rear axle thrust arms connect to the frame. This is a common area of weakness and there are many stories where the thrust arms break loose at speed with a resulting loss of control of the car. The really bad part is that frame members rot from the inside and often a possibly disastrous break happens as a total surprise. Cost to PROPERLY rebuld a rusted undercarriage is such that unless you're totally in love with the car, or if it's a valuable model such as 190SL, it doesn't make sense to spend thousands for a rebuild. In short- cost to repair a rotted undercarriage will most likely exceed the value of the car! To patch rotted areas is a fool's game. The design of the ponton cars is such that each undercarriage component is dependent upon ALL the other parts for structural integrity- one bad part weakens the entire unit. Whlie patching may give you a false sense of security, it's only delaying the inevitable- something else is about to fail. Rebuilding a rusted ponton undercarriage is a job best left to experts.

Dear Mr Theradiowave-
I don't know how much getting someone to replace a floor or weld in patches would cost.
My 61 wagon has a lot of rust through the floor. If this was a sedan I don't think I would consider fixing it. Anyway I plan on cutting out pieces of floor out of my parts car and welding or fastening them them into place probably by myself. This is going to be a pretty big challenge for me since I have very little experience with welding. I'd be very interested in hearing anything more about your Car- Angus

I found a 1962 190B Station-Wagon in need of a new floor how much is that going to run me?