Hey gang, i've posted a note in a new message board that is under construction but usable.

http://www.wavelust.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1

The base URL is http://www.wavelust.com/forum/

Thanks

Big bummers bud...
Scored some good silvas this weekend. Super crowded though. At first wasnt comfurtable in the unstable conditions(cleanup sets) but it was only like 4 or 5 feet, 6 on the biggest ones. However, after like 20 min of indecision a big one swong wide and my friends father just looked at me and said 'go now. moment of glory, i used to be scared to, just GO.' i just kinda said ok and swong around and dropped in. I had a great ride and decided that takin a few on the head was worth a few more of those good bigger ones :). So it was a great session, probably heaviest i have been out on my longbaord. On a short baord it wouldnt have been a problme, but duckdiving a 5 foot wave in country isnt too much fun ;). Final wave was fun cause i wasnt expecting it but the wave just jacked up vertical as i had a high line about to noseride, and i free fell to the flats in the barrel and just got licked. Pretty fun. The best part was that a moke taht was givin me the stink eye for most of the sesh just looked at me and said. 'hollow, ya brah?' and gave me a smile and a nod. Really good session for me overall. Hope u all guys get good waves.
               Tom

Bummer about the site, Bud.

Surfed small PLBD yesterday. Little bit funky, but surprisingly empty. Only me and another guy for 1.5 hours, with me alone for an hour. Loving it! Had some bad wipeouts, but a few good rides to make it worthwhile.

Hey Sloan. I don't wear a helmet when I surf. (I won't name any spots but some are pretty scary.) My opinion on the helmet is that you are in water, if you hit your head hard enough on the reef you will get knocked out and possibly drown. This can happen even if you are wearing a helmet. You might not get serious cuts or bruises, but you could still get knocked out & drown. Which one do you prefer?

heading up in the morning

swell is looking north

i like north :p

I dont wear a helmet but would like too. Its nice, it either gives you the "hellman/stuntman" look, or you can get a pink one and a 9 foot gun to go with it and have the "old geezer who can still surf 10 foot" look.....

Neva surfed, trying to heal. Looks like the buoys are up again....windy all day by my house, no goood.

Someone hacked the board or something? Server error? beeeotch!

Just surfed lanis and had my first true run-in with the reef. Waves were head high to a couple feet overhead and were bumpy, but it seemed like the direction was pretty good for lanis. On my 3rd or 4th wave I'm surfing down the line, backside. The wave is about 2 feet overhead. The section in front of me suddenly jacks up and gets vertical. I guess maybe the wave in front already drew a bunch of water off the reef, not leaving much for this one. If I straightened out I would get crunched, so I tried to kick up over the lip and over the back of the wave, but it was too late. The wave took me over the falls. I got the normal pounding which wasn't that bad, but after two seconds of that it seemed like another cycle started. Don't know, maybe I got curled over again. Right in the middle of that second churning, SMACK!!! I hit the reef hard. It shocked me as I never hit it out there. I was surprised how shallow it got. Luckily it was my ankle and knee that hit and not my head. I pushed off the bottom and grabbed my board, heading in right away as I was in mucho pain. I expected to see blood streaming down my legs but saw nothing - thankfully the reef at lanis ain't sharp. I escaped with only a bruised ankle bone and a bruised knee... until I sat down in my car and realized my ass was killing me - it was all scraped up. Just call me Colonel Sore Ass.

Anyone on the board wear a helmet? I've owned one for awhile but never put it on. I don't care about the vanity of it - I'm not 16 anymore and besides any remaining vanity left my body once I got married. I'm just reluctant to have some uncomfortable thing on my head, muffling my hearing etc. I wonder how used to it you can get. It coulda just as easily been my head that hit today... makes you think.

- schlumpf

ya HMark, it sucks ... hope it can be fixed & and/or converted

Serious bummers Bud! That shit sucks. Hope all the posts and stuffs get to the new BB, Hunt 'em Down!!!!!!!

Dicks everywhere I guess...

hey sloan welcome back. a new php2 BB is up, but dunno if I should open it it up before I know for sure whether the old BB can be imported & converted

hey gang... looks like will be changing to a php bulletin board. dunno if/when the old BB will be converted. I have no problem changing to a more secure BB, but fak I'm majorly bumming if I cannot use that almost 2 years of resources posted by me and all you guys. the techies from my domain host are working to see if the old Ikon board data can be converted to the new format.

lookin kinda bumpy upside today... ccccold out there this morn

Curses. Just got back from snowboarding in tahoe and I NEED to know everything that happened this past week. Ok I'm niele, but I went 10 days w/o the wavelust bulletin board... what's the eta for this being back up, bud?

Anyone heading to country today?

- schlumpf

hunt down the uncool bastards, Bud!

2/15/04

Wavelust.com / 808surfer.com / Bud's Surfing life

My Website & Message board has been compromised by unknown person(s). Tech support for my web host are working on getting things back up.

This message board still works if you like

Hey dude i just want to know where this place is so that i can go there my email is Just4fun200@attbi.com

Moving - Please bookmark this page to keep up with the latest on my website http://www.wavelust.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/ikonboard.pl

Thanks!

New Journal entries - http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/may02.html

Been too busy with work to write much more than some basic session info/crib notes for the last few surfs. Surf has sucked anyway...

Hhoop, sounds interesting, waves have not been very good here lately. What is the format and file size of the clip(s)? Is it your footage?

hey bud
winter in southern hemi - south africa being loaded with 960 lows spinning away like mad headless chickens.can i submit to you some video footage of unreal capetown surf? to your email ? its all kool and the gang stuff.

warm regards
hoolahoop

Thanks for the input, Jon. I agree that message board is irritatiing - the delay in loading.. plus the banner ad in the middle sucks (but hey it is free). The boys from nextmill.com are helping me to set up "ikonboard" as we speak.

That new message board loads up a little slower(with a cable modem), the interface is nice though. Looked like a fun little swell though.

Ikonboard works on our servers.

SuPPoRT!!!

Well, our Mother's Day Swell was kind of a let down, but we got some above average summer surf out of it. I'm way behind on updating the website but should have some some new stuff soon. I'm thinking of changing to a different message board, I'd appreciate any feedback on whether I should change to this one http://pluto.beseen.com/boardroom/u/59870/ (a couple video clips from yesterday) --- or links to other free threaded message boards. Thanks!

looks like the swell is for real.
8 to 12 feet in Tahiti at the moment.
 check www.billabongpro.com

Sporadic 16.7 sec energy, the first signs of the new swell hitting the Christmas Isle buoy http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.phtml?$station=51028

Hope it comes through as big as predicted!

Student-

We often say "dooood" "tubular" and "gnarly" (juuuust kidding). Anyway, hard to say without knowing the context but my guess for "SE" is southeast, as in wind or swell direction.

http://www.balix.com/surfing/glossary.html
http://www.surfinary.com/a_z.htm

Some friendly advice- don't try to "talk like a surfer" to someone who actually surfs!

Good luck with the magazine.....

ha!
Bud, looks like you got your hands full with the "student"

Could SE stand for "Stay Eway".... hee hee. Maybe South East?

Hey Bud! You seem like a really good surfer, and I have to make a magazine for school. I wanted to do an article about surfing because it seems so cool! The only problem is I'm not really famaliar with it. I've checked out a lot of sites, so I know the basics of how to surf, but can you tell me what surfers commonly say and what the abbreviations mean. For example I saw something that said "SE". What does that mean?

Surf South Africa
Check out our site at http://www.dawnpatrol.co.za

Bud,

Thanks for the reply, I'm guessing I'm going to have to get some kind of super macho zooom for the shots on the South shore like you said, the breaks are way out.. I'm thinking I'm getting a box of the fuji snapshots to go along with this as well, also you're pic's are great. Thanks again.

Read the post 'bout Monday sess. WHERE was everybody? ... Not that i am complaining, but empty line ups, NO ONE ( hardly ) out... CHOICE conditions.... ( cue that twilight zone muzak ) .... Got another surf out today at Chinas & a afternoon sess 2nds ... no complaints from me ... LIFE IS GOOD... Best to you...

Hey Buddy, I use an older generation digital camcorder, a JVC Cybercam, it has something like 16x zoom up to 160x digital zoom. I'm far from being an expert, but I think you should have no problem with yours. I would say a tripod is mandatory, though, especially using any kind of zoom factor. Even so, most of the summer spots in town are waaaay waaay out there, and whoever is shooting better have a good idea of shooting surf video... and be able to identify you and your buds.

Bud, could you tell me what type of camcorder you are using on some of your videos..??..What type of zoom,etc. are you using. we are planning a trip in the middle of May this year and want to try and get some good surf shots of us surfing while we are there. I currently have a sony handycam 360x zoom and I'm not sure if that will pick up shots from a distance. I never really have used it for these type of shots.Thanks

Added some basic session info for the last few sessions Journal http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/apr02.html
I'm planning to write some more details on some of these entries soon

Added new Photos
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/114.html
and the pics from yesterdays session at B*g R***ts :-)
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/115.html

Yup, I'm burnt to crisp and surfed out too! Glad you been scoring. Will have new pics and stuff to share tomorrow

Aloha again ---- Just a quickie note to say that China's was FIRING & all the boys was going OFF! .... I sure hope the rest of the summer is going to be like this... Surfed out AGAIN! ... what a blast. got a whole bunch of waves over 5' & actually got barelled not once, but twice on a choice one. lots of waves, and hit it at the perfect tide today ( sunshine too ) ... damn i am stoked as stoked can be. Best to you hope you are as sore & tired as me. PEACE!

Aloha Bud. ... Tired. Toooooo much surf the past 2 days & lotsa work hope you got yours ... I am sure Cameron did, Aloha for now 1 tired, burnt, sore shouldered, bro. Laters!

Edited by author 04-25-2002 08:45 PM
Updated the Links page with a link to UH's Oahu Compass Points Map http://www.wavelust.com/links.html (marked with red asterisk)

Added short Journal entries (basic session info and notes to self) for the past few sessions http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/apr02.html Lately been too busy at work to write up session details.

Added a new photo (top right here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110.html) courtesy Neal

Looks good for some decent summer swell over the next few days http://ilikai.soest.hawaii.edu/HILO/localsize.html. Will have to our best to out manuver the potentially bad winds though

/m374 HMark- the Christmas Isle buoy just started jumping 7' @ 16.7 secs http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.phtml?$station=51028 so we should see something Friday for sure. Just hope it stays solid!

/m373 WelshOlly- Early Saturday morning we checked the surf at Rockys/Gas Chambers and *almost* jumped in there. Looking back, I wish we had!

Yo Bud - Looking forward to a fresh S swell !!! Gona be at the places that catch 'em ( I hope ! ) try AGAIN for some pix but doubt it... Hope your winds blow off shore.... Peace!

Scored gas chambers on sat and sunday bigger and better than expected which was sweet as it was my last NS session for the season as i'm being condemned to sea for 6 weeks work :(
Bud, your website'll keep me sane knowing there are waves breaking somewhere out there! cheers mate
See you all at the south bowls in June!

Surfer/Webmaster from http://www.chunnsreef.com was on the beach
and happened to snap a few pics of our crew in action this past Saturday .

Originals here
http://www.chunnsreef.com/short%20boarders/short02.htm
Crew shots, reproduced with permission here -
Makani-
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/042002m.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/042002m1.jpg
BrotherRich-
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/042002r.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/042002r1.jpg
Bud-
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/042002b.jpg

To see many New Jersey surfing photos... visit localswell.com

/m369 Buddy - it's cool that you're aware of being a beginner and wanting to stay clear of others. You didn't say when you'll be over here. If you're talking summer you should be ok at many Waikiki spots, especially inside Queens, just gotta look out for other dozens of people learning too... During the winter, the reform at inside Haleiwa (Alii Beach Park) is a well known spot to learn.

/m368 Hey HMark, sounds like you're stoked, glad to hear you're on top of the action. It's been so fickle lately you have to be ready to go at the drop of a hat.

/m367 Lgreanz, on Saturday, after checking up & down the NS, we ended up at Chuns. While my brother and Makani had a blast, I had the worst session in long time, reminded me why we never surf there. Surf was pretty good, glassy head high sometimes bigger, but the lonboarders had the place locked up.

Edited by author 04-21-2002 06:32 PM
I'm a windsurfer that frequents Maui quite often, but this will be my first trip staying on Oahu. I'm having a longboard shaped for me (J. Vicente) and want to get a good idea of where would be the best place to try my first longboarding sessions and stay out of other people way at the same time. I'm guessing Waikiki, but want to make sure that I get a little swell. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Edited by author 04-21-2002 03:19 AM
/m367 Got some good ones at Full Point Sat. looks like tomorrow will be more of the same with some nice east swell out there to be had... hope the rains fade out .. Go out and get 'em ...hope all your winds are blowing off shore... Peace! .. Yo Bud- the pix as always are a blast i goota figure this camera stuff out hard when you are all Thumbs, but gotta give the shots a try ... Stay wet!

That was a reply to the guy, who was aking about being harrased when surfing in HI.Im not sayin anyones an a**hole. Anyone get any good ones on Sat ???

Aloha Bud - Got some surf the past days w/ great conditions and none too much for crowds... 'spose the last swell of the winter may be coming to the N shores, and town a small possibility in the coming days ... sounds good to me ... Re the discussion -- Don't you sometimes wish there was INSTANT KARMA to dish out 'cause it sure seems like what goes around, comes around ... Sometimes a Hoot or a "how was THAT last one?" makes the sess at a spot a lot less hassled, i know being Poi Dog helps me w/ the Jivers ... Stay wet ... Peace! ....

/m363 YO, LGREANZ, who's acting like an a**hole?

---
Please quote the message you are responding to (Refer to another message number like so: /m096 and you'll get a link to that message)

yeah thats a good one, wish i had a trophy like that.

if you act like an a**hole, then you shall be treated like one.

Friend Fabian sent this disposable camera pic of me dropping into a hefty one at Lanis, from a session this past March 12 (http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/109.html). I remember this wave vividly and was stoked when he told me he got a shot of it, even though it was way too far away... still, should be able to make out the size and the great conditions, I think - http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/budlanis6.jpg

New pics from Saturday's session, courtesy Neal from HI Surf Advisory (http://www.hisurfadvisory.com)

Two shots of Bud, both from the same wave-
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/041302b1.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/041302b.jpg

Thanks NEAL! Will add these to a new page as soon as I finish the current camera which should have a couple from this day also.

Also used one of the pics for a new front end image -
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/bsl.html (may have to refresh)

Jon, bummer about your all too common experience. Sounds like not much you could have done to prevent what happened... but here are some parking tips. Whenever possible-
park where your car will be visible from the lineup
back into your spot, back end facing lineup
avoid tight parking spaces between other cars
don't leave valuables inside, or least not in view
keep constant watch on your car while surfing
be suspicious of cars parking unnecessarily close to yours

It puts a damper on a session, but basically, you need to be alert to people near your vehicle. And, it wouldn't hurt to buy a "Hale Nalu" sticker from their shop in Waianae and put it on your car.

I definetly have to agree with Bud about the westside, its not too vistor friendly. I parked my rental truck at one spot last year, in plain view, and it got broke into. I heard all the warnings so left NOTHING in the truck, but they still slashed the plastic window and rumaged thru the truck, after not finding anything they took off. I SAW them bust in, but by the time I got to the beach they were gone. Surprisingly I didnt have ANY hassles in the water, actually shared waves with one guy (who seemed to be local) for about 2 hours. Again, like Bud said, it has alot to do with your attitude. If you paddle out and try to run the show and act like a kook dont expect to have too much fun.

Jon

/m356 JD-

"Knocks"? Perhaps you meant "kooks" i.e., clueless beginners...

If you understand and follow basic lineup etiquette and know what you're doing in the surf, you will not have any problems. Not saying you'll get many waves if you go to a big name spot on a Saturday morning with good swell, but you won't get hassled simply because you're a visitor. The South or North Shore it's almost impossible to tell who's "local" - not always a moke. Remember, it's a small island and the surf community is a tight bunch. All the top dogs at top spots will know each other - regulars that go waaaay back. Unfamiliar faces will be low on the totem pole and are expected to stay low key

Although it's slowly changing, things are different on the west side, and much of what is said about it, is true.

HTH

Some short Journal drafts for recent sessions added http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/apr02.html
A few new Photos added http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/113.html

Hi Bud,
  I enjoy reading your entries and checking your photos. I have a question about the attitude I have been reading about on another site from locals there regarding haoles in the water and "knocks". The talk is very agressive and seems to imply some serious localism and even some for real ass kicking. Do you experience any of this or have your friends or others that you know of? I do not see any of that in your entries nor do I find it talked about in the magazines. Can you tell me about this and the reality of it from your experiences?
  Thanks,
   JD

Updated the Links page http://www.wavelust.com/links.html Surfline has gone to paid subscription only for their live surf cams. I heard a rumor that surfline has picked up the surfcheck.com cams and will have most of them online for subscribers at some time in the future.

A scoop - My son Joey made the the cover of an
upcoming issue of Surfer Magazine-

http://www.wavelust.com/temp/joeycover-b.jpg

Inside caption-
"Young Joey Williams... breaking new ground; showing
remarkable style and composure as he makes the drop
into the previously unthinkable realm of going RIGHT at
Teahuppo"

Good surfing to you,

Proud daddy Bud :-)

Ouuuuuch! I've had days similar HMark, but that is pretty bad luck... lucky no broken ribs?

---
Been really busy at work, only had one session over the past week! Looks like town might have waves but havn't checked yet. Maybe eve session today or something tomorrow

Edited by author 04-10-2002 03:28 AM
Yo Bud! ... Ever had ONE of THOSE days? ... The skinny----Early morning session @ Turtles, No boat, so walk out at 1st light, Moooshooo (mushy) pork waves, but No one else out and what the heck, grab a wave here and there ... Or so i thought, ( cue the twilight zone muzak ) first stick toe in reef, sliced and diced nicely, but OK, then paddle out thru lagoon and grab waves...I can hear the surf Gods laughing now, sitting inside cause of the low-ish tide, spock a nice left, go go go .... proceed to some how screw the take off, bail the board, land chest first on the skegs, rip thru the rash guard, figure i am seriously bleeding, but just major dingage to left tit and above left hip....( 2 perfect imprints of outer skegs ) w/ matching bruises and such... decide i will live, grab a couple waves paddle around wondering why the hell my chest is so sore. ... take the walk after a hour-half of breathing like sin. Spend day doing stuff. Notice winds have died alot at 3pm decide to go for a surf @ China's afternoon glass (hoping) ... On it! Paddle out got some waves, not too much crowd. Catch a choice Very West set all the way thru.... couple hoots.. FUN FUN FUN .... ( cue twilight zone muzak one more time ) ... Grab another set , let a few go by for the boys scrappin' the inside bowl-o-drome... actually felling really good about session..... da da da da da dum..... Sets start marching in, catch a peek on the horizon that a choice one looks to be feathering a bit outside.... trying to position to far in, over, kinda screwed.... punching thru breking lip .... lose grip on 9'2" feel leash pulling ...... As i was swimming to Point all i could think of was how the hell am i going to get to Pillers to hunt down my BOARD!...IT WAS ONE OF THOSE FRIGGIN DAYS...... Be out there tomorrow....Best to you...& Peace....( It sure cant get anyworse )...

Added a Journal entry for Mondays session http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/apr02.html

Added new Photos from Monday Tuesday here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/112.html

8am HST, web host is down. Apparently some mainland utility company cut into a major fiber optic cable.

--
/m347 'sup HMark, sounds like some serious travel time, stoked. Glad to hear Dwight is still at it too.

/m348 laks, good to hear that you've been getting the goods. I've had some sweet sessions over the past few days too. Will have some pics to share once the server is back online

how big was rabbit. surfed 7 h--es HUGE on sunday. me and my friend only guys out. Big clean lefts. Surfed in front of PCC the next day and that was like solid 4 and uncrowded too. some sick bowls coming through. Tuesday surfed 6-8 sunset in the morning/ sooooooo fun. then this morning got sweeeeet barrels at V-land with less than 10 guys out most of sesh. pretty good 4 day run.

Aloha Bud- Another round of N swell wrap for the East Side Boys Easter was Macking @ Rabbit Island ( per Dwight O. ) just came back from Snow boarding in Seattle , and caught the swell on Easter w/ da boys out at Rabbits saw him @ Full Point today & had some bombers today ( long Wait ) and yesterday had some fun ones too. Looks like fun waves a coming for town and point N for the boys... Take care and as usual.... Peace!

Added a Journal entry for yesterdays surf http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/mar02.html#032802

Fixed a bad link (the "unidentified charger at Sunset") on the Vid page
http://www.wavelust.com/real/vid.html

New Photos added

one here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110.html (top left)
and new page
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/111.html
Journal entries in a day or two

New Photos added

one here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110.html (top left)
and new page
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110.html
Journal entries in a day or two

That is a nice website kev... I like idea and the name "BarrelQuest"
Surf? London?

---
Here's a peek at some pics from Sunday afternoon-
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/032402.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/032402a.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/032402c.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/032402d.jpg

hey bud and friends

a new site for anyone interested in cape town south africa surf...http://www.barrelquest.co.za/

gwoovy times
kev
in london going for a surf next week ! hurray !!!(first in 6 months - shame)

Cool shot Bill, I bet it brings back great memories for you.

Three people out!? Nowadays there'd be 3 people ON *THAT* WAVE !!! Naaah it's not that bad, well, maybe some days it is :-)

Hey Bud,

What you guys call Rocky Point, Rocky Rights, Rocky Lefts, etc....we used to call Arma Hut, or at least, close to Arma Hut.

Crowded day Arma Hut 1966. Three people out, Spring of 1996.

Life was good then, in fact it still is!!

BA

Photo of ME by Tex Wilson.

Sweet tasty waves~~~Thanks for the awesome pics and the info......D-man

Sweet tasty waves~~~Thanks for the awesomw pics and the info......Dman

Updated the Links Page with a link to live video feeds from Waikiki
http://www.wavelust.com/links.html ("Waikiki Live")

Added some short Journal entries for recent sessions http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/mar02.html

HMark- glad you're getting some surf, but maybe next time walk to the beach so no broke your board eh, auwe!! Haha, just kidding

--
Some new Photos I took from the beach with the digital cam. Awesome little waves at Rockys..
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110.html

Yo Bud...Surf update - Got out at DH the other day and had a few nice waves and not alot of souls out...Full Point yesterday AM no wind, and a LOOOONG wait 'tween sets but when they came they were pushing all the way thru to 1/2 pt. ..A worthwhile session, but broke the nose of my favorite 9'2" by backing into a wall in parking lot! Not the most genius move so now i will probably have a 9'0"...looks like swells are around, just got to go out there and hunt it down...Peace, stay wet!!

Edited by author 03-14-2002 01:57 PM
Pete, the digital photos on my site are captured at 1280x960, then (usually) reduced for upload & view over the web. I have most of the originals at 1280x960 on my hard drive, dunno if that's good enough but if you see something you're interested in, let me know here or bud@wavelust.com

Of course, there are lots of professional surf photogs with web sites out there. For example surfermag.com links to their people http://surfermag.com/pics/
http://www.jeffdivinephoto.com/index.htm

Can anyone supply me with high resolution surfing images or photos to print on a large scale like a billboard? We will either endorse the owner of the photo, and/or the surfer on the print. The vehicle or bilboard will be on display in Sarasota Florida, so if you want to show off to our little surf community let me know.

We will also purchase the photos if that works best.

We will accept slides, negatives, prints or digital images on disc.

Thank you in advance

Peter Meninno
Motiongraphics@mindspring.com

/m327 Hey thanks Erik, neat gadget there... interesting.

--

/m329 Chip, I don't know which photos you're talking about but none are from Kauai. It's all Oahu.

  is that secrets beach kawaii?

      


            http://www.surfstrap.com

cool bud heres the photos you wanted www.surfstrap.com

New page of Photos http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/109.html and some Journal entries http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/mar02.html

A couple new Photos added here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/107.html#021002 pics courtesy Neal (http://www.hisurfadvisory.com)

'sup HMark... forecast is finally looking better - pray for surf!

--

Added a couple digital camera Photos I took from the beach after my surf session this afternoon http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/108.html (bottom)

Howzit Bud! ... Looks promising for surf sessions the coming few days ... Possibly town too! Maybe see Ya out there!! Even the winds may be cooperating with us! Aloha for now, as usual,... Peace!

Hmm, I think I found it... looks like they make the holster/strap for it, but no picture

http://www.minoltausa.com/eprise/main/Mino...ic&mDetail=Features

Jon-

Sounds like your setup works well. I'd be interested in seeing the holster/strap config. Did you make this yourself or is it made by the company - if so, is there a website for the product? Do you have surf pics on the web?

Give you guys lots of credit for ccccold water photo sessions!

Bud,
  I know what you mean about the size of the camera. I use a Minolta waterproof camera to take surf pictures. They turn out better then the disposible camera and it isnt all that big. It has a holster with a 2" wide Velcro strap that we strap to our arm and it just snaps out of that thing when we want to take our pictures. Its cold here now and it sucks getting worked by big 40 degree waves but we still try to get as many pictures as we can. Keep up the great work, after taking pictures myself I know just how much dedication it takes to do what you do.

Irish surfer whens the best time to get quality surf in Ireland ?

Thanks Jon... I agree, but keep in mind that although the water digicam is nice & small, it's still too big/heavy to keep in my pocket like the disposables. In other words, it required us to give up part of our session to shoot photos. If the surf was going off I doubt we would have taken it out. We're out to surf before anything else!!

We are stoked with it though, and will definitely be shooting with it regularly...

Bud, I think those new water shots in that housing are great. For the first time using it they came out really good. If you use that on a regular basis its gonna take your site to a whole other level, the quality is leaps and bounds better then the disposible cams.

Thanks Ire!

--

Initial test run with BrotherRich's Sony DSC-P1 inside the "Marine Pack" water housing. Operator (me) error caused all the shots I took - unusable... plus we forgot to apply the anti-fog solution, so only the first couple pics came out. We learned a lot about using it, though, so not a complete loss. In the right situation, this setup has great potential and we're pumped about it.

Small fun surf but mega crowded today. Overhead sets and good conditions.

All photos by BrotherRich!
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/030502y.jpg (unidentified)
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/030502z.jpg (unidentified)
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/030502b.jpg (Bud, fog setting in)
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/030502b1.jpg (Bud...)

Good work Bud!!!
 Like the pics, good site. Looks like some pretty nice sessions you've clocked up over there. Keep it up.

Irish surfer.....

Added a page with the digital camera Photos I took Saturday http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/108.html

Mahalo Groovn...

--

Surf turned out to be much better than me and Rich expected today, had a great session. Here's a digital cam pic from Rocky Point this morning http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/030202a.jpg

Heya Bud... just been toolin' around your site after finding a link to it at a bb... very cool site man, nice of you to invest such effort into sharing your stoke and the sights of your personal experience...

Thanks.

/m308 Frank- Hmm, my surf journal has hundreds of entries but don't know if it has the kind of info that you're looking for. Can't think of a resource devoted specifically to people's feelings while surfing. As for myself- suspense, trepidation, satisfaction, adrenaline rush, and the overwhelming, all-consuming addiction to do it again and again- are a few of the feelings that come to mind as I sit here. The old saying "only a surfer knows the feeling" nails it.

---

/m310 Melissa - thanks! and I have to agree with your comment wrt the body text. If I decide to go with the new look, I will definitely have to do something different about that. Appreciate everyones's opinions/comments

Hey Bud,
I just wanted to post a few words about the new look for your website. I love the "Bud's Surfing Life" logo, but the font for the words below it doesn't really catch my eye. It just seems like something is missing. Maybe you should try to personalize it more by adding something that represents your surfing or Hawaii as a whole. I would definitly keep that logo though. Just my opinion.

Whatever you decide, I love your site and check it every day! It really means a lot for those of us who are landlocked. Keep up the great work.

Frank,
 "Uphoria" is one word. Did I spell that correctly?
It's hard to put into words. "Adrenaline rush" "utmost excitement" Many days I get a "worldly joy", "truly satisfied" feeling. Like everything is right in my world. It's calming yet exciting at the same time. Puts me in tune.
Some of this may sound corny. Sorry. Just hard to capture it.

Hi ,
I´m a student fron Germany/Europe and write my finall paper at university about experiences in surfing (fear, luck, stoke...)and want to compare it with climbing-experiences.
do you have any kind of help where i could get discriptions about peoples feelings while surfing?
sincerely Frank

Edited by author 03-01-2002 03:10 AM
Thanks for the input, folks... still not sure about making changes.

Scanned the new pics, unfortunately nothing much any good from this disposable. I'm not quite done with the page but the Photos are up so you guys can check them out here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/107.html

Also updated the video page with that last clip from Sunset http://www.wavelust.com/real/vid.html

Twisted my foot pretty bad walking back across the reef when I finished surfing Rocky Pt this morning. Hurts like a mofo, tylenol w/codeine hardly helps. Hope it's gone by morning. At least I got a couple sahhhweeeeet barrels :-)

Wait a minute! The link you have below sent me to a white front page. But then I took out the "newfrontpage.html" and came to a nice black front page with the bluish logo. Now that looks good.

Hey Bud,
 Just one opinion... personally, I tend to like the other front page. The use of the black background is great. I wouldn't move away from it.

Hi Bud, it loads really fast on my dial-up, and it's a good professional look...Where are the surf pics?

I'm thinking about a new look for my site. Does anyone have problems loading this page? Seems to get stuck when I use Netscape 4.76. Any thoughts opinions comments criticisms appreciated

http://www.wavelust.com/newfrontpage.html

Yeah Devs, it's on a short list of places we want to go asap...

--

Me & Rich went looking for surf this morning but got skunked. Looking good at buoy 1 though, started steady pinging 8' @ 16.7 sec since 10am... tomorrow in the country, hope it gets big enough to test out my new 7'3" !

I'm not trieing to claim but,It's just been so fun, not epic waves, just a few people and you can enjoy surfing again. I'm broke and my body given me grief, so I've only been able to go a few times, It's not been a very good year for the west side, the bigger the better it is. Not that it's a big wave spot only, but the big swell make for better sandbars.The next time your bro gets leave, he should check it out.

Nah Devs, I think it's been a couple years since he's been over there...

--
Added a new Journal entry here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/feb02.html#022302

When has Rich been here? Did he come this season? Everybody just claiming B.S. has been epic this year but you know how people talk. It only been so-so when I got on.

Howzit Devs... will probably develope the camera and have some new pics later this week, I don't think I have anything much though. Photo opps have been pretty lame lately. My brother is active duty and we surf the bases here on Oahu when it's on. Dunno about making it out there anytime soon, but Rich raves about the sessions he's had at Barking Sands.

/m295 HMark- glad to hear Cam is still getting wet... summer is coming up all too fast and we'll probably be seeing each other out at the "windslop spot" soon enough :-) Hope this summer is better than last year!

whats up bud? finaly a swell? no pics this month? I miss the boat to barking sands this mourning and will probaldy take the trip tomorrow. It's real strange having that place off limits. You know any mil. type , you should come over.
I'd fill you in on the facts if you like. lats

whats up bud? finaly a swell? no pics this month?

Hey Bud! ... Been seeing Cameron @ the RHH quite a bit lately, ( more visitors = more hours ) think he was raving about "squatting feline" going off,... getting barreled,... drilled,... loving life, young groms going off... i'd say he is doing pretty damn good... kudos to your sight for all the info you are putting out bro' its only good karma, and i can see those empty line ups coming your way...Peace!

Added a new Journal entry http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/feb02.html#022102

Edited by author 02-21-2002 07:29 PM
/m290 Hey HMark, glad to hear you're getting some... what about Cameron?

---
/m291 Howdy Christine... Check the paper, especially Sundays; $800 should get you a decent 1 bedroom; keep an eye out for Makiki, Kaimuki, Ala Moana, Kapiolani areas, lots of condos and walk-ups.. or even Aiea has some good buildings within 15-30 minutes of town. Be ready with a security deposit equal (but no more than) one month of rent.

--
/m292 Thanks for the kind words melon... whoa, that spot in Surfer was waaaaay back in 1982!! Damn I'm old.

Great website! I check it from time to time, and its always a treat to read your journal and check the photos...its like I am there.

P.S. I remember you being featured in the "hot 100" article in Surfer...

Hey Bud,
A friend of mine, Shari, from OB San Diego referred me to this board as I'm moving to Oahu tomorrow. I lived on the big island for 10 years so I'm not a Malihini excactly, but I've never lived in Oahu. I'm looking for a 1 bedroom for under 800/month within a reasonable driving distance to Ala Moana....Any suggestions?? Neighborhoods to avoid?? Neighborhoods to seek out?? I'd LOVE a funky coffee shack, but an apartment would be fine....

I've only surfed Waikiki one time on a vacation, and I'm looking forward to exploring Oahu!!! I hear there will be a big swell this weekend!!

Aloha,
Christine

Aloha Bud! Great to see the new inputs on the sight... got to surf country 1x a couple weeks ago... ok but crowded after a while, Full point yesterday no winds and clean, fun, fun waves! On the job today but looking forward to the next session as always ... Hope the winds stay down for the upcoming few days.... Peace!

Surfer Magazine recently did an article with their points on the "10 Best Surf Towns" with info on how far your $$ will take you, etc.
http://surfermag.com/magazine/index.shtml?...&subsection=current

It's very expensive to live here in Hawaii and the local economy has been in the dump for some time. I can't give first hand advice on anywhere else since I've lived here continuously since the 70's.....

Hey Bud,
Thanks for getting back so soon. I am DEFINITLY looking to get out of Canada. I'm graduating from University at the end of the summer and I want to spend a few years living on the beach, learning to surf, you know, actually LIVING. I wanted to check out a few spots before I chose. Any recommendations?
Nicola
P.S. I live in Montreal, so keep in mind that travelling to Victoria island, which I hear has pretty good surf, will cost the same as going to where the water is warmer. Thanks

You didn't say if you're looking to travel or looking locally. Cam has a great resource for surfing in Canada/learning to surf/surfing in general here - http://www.surfingvancouverisland.com/surf/

If you're coming to Hawaii you will have no problem finding inexpensive surf lessons

Hey,
I'm wondering if someone can recommend a good spot for me to go surf. I have yet to try it, as I live in Canada, which is great for boarding, but not so good for surfing. Anyway, I have limited dollars, too (the life of a student, sigh!!), so if anyone knows........
Let me know at nickystephenson@hotmail.com
Thanks

Heyyyy Fabian! Give a ring when you get ready to surf. I can't surf Sunday but pretty flexible the rest of the week. Email on the way.

Wassup Bud, I'm coming home tomorrow for some surf. Will be there for almost a month. So, let's go surf. Wat's your guys numbers? E-mail it to me, fabian_e@yahoo.com.

Added a few notes for recent sessions. New Journal entries http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/feb02.html

Sure thing Bud, its a whole year away but I still stoked to be out there next winter. Winter here hasnt been all that great, almost no swell and the ones we get last only a day. We are off to San Diego in a month for a couple weeks of surifng, hopefully we wont get skunked.

Jon

am I the only one from holland, europe????????????

i saw that video clip....amazing looks like holland in very very very good dayz. from holland greetings
 c-ya

Wow Jon, Ke Iki Road? Looks like you'll have a front row seat. Be sure to drop me a note when you get over.

--

Here's a vid clip I took this morning. Sunset Beach, unidentified surfer making a valiant run. 2.9 meg .asf with commentary provided by the Williams Brothers http://www.wavelust.com/real/021202.asf

I couldnt take reading your posts and looking at the surf pics anymore. I just booked a house on Ke Iki Rd for next winter. Hopefully see you in the lineup next year Bud and take some pictures of my own.

Jon

Howzit Bill,

"You were born one year AFTER I graduated from La Jolla High School" - Hey you're surfing NOW, that's all that matters IMO ... though you getter give Joanne the red carpet treatment in the lineup!

Jeff D probably wouldn't remember me; Back in the early 80's I was just another Makaha surf rat who was a friend of Rell Sunn. I may have flopped around in the surf in front of his camera a couple times back then, but that cover shot of you is an all time Surfer Mag classic.

Hey Bud,

I'm at work, waiting for the tide to drop so I can make a speed run to B****'s. Took another look at your site and noticed a few things:

1963- (May) Born (Military Base, Japan)

You were born one year AFTER I graduated from La Jolla High School.

1977- Learned to stand on a surfboard at Talafofo(sp?) Bay, Guam

You started surfing 20 years AFTER I started at La Jolla Shores, CA.

1985- Surfing less and less
1986- By the end of '86 I was not surfing at all

I have done extended no-surf spells twice in my career.

1997- (Summer '97) A friend got me back in the water and I never looked back. . .

A friend (Joanne VanMeter) got me back in the water a couple of years ago.

I haven't looked back yet - and know I won't!

Great "old" photos of you!

Jeff Divine is a very good friend and I have some photos of me, that Jeff took in the 60's, posted on my site web shots site.

Keep surfing, keep the stoke, and don't ever look back...you never know what may be gaining on you!

BA

http://community.webshots.com/user/bill_andrews21

Stoked that you people dig my work. I am proud of the fact that my site is a bit different than most surfing related pages. I owe a great to my friend Neal (http://www.hisurfadvisory.com) for the concept. Once again, thanks for the support!

--
Added a few new session notes and a new Journal entry here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/feb02.html#020702
--
Neal sent over a couple shots he took of me from the past month or so- http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/012502b.jpg and http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/373_3.jpg

Large,
 nice message. I agree Bud's site is great. I agree also about the "raw" photos, as you put it. They are excellent because it shows how it really is, unlike the magazines (using special filters and lenses). I wish there were more people in the world like you and Bud. So it seems, you guys are mature in your thinking, enjoy life, the ocean, and have respect for others around you. It bothers me when I read stories or reviews of surf spots that have problems with brain-less bad ass selfish locals who pick fights and trash cars. I guess I'm not used to that. I've seen a few people mouthing off, but never a local to trash a car. Never saw a fist fight in the water or on the beach. Though I know it happens once in a blue moon here on the east coast, I believe it is very rare, even on really good days when it is crowded.
I have a theory that people who trash a car just because it is out of state or they don't recognize it, are simple-mided, selfish, non-thinking, assholes who think they own a piece of mother ocean. Respect people. Respect the surfers around you. Enjoy! And if someone doesn't respect you, talk to them. Don't yell obsenities at them.
 Keep the peace.

G'day,

while sitting at my desk trying to work and thinking about surf I cruised the I'net for a new wallpaper pic when I found your site. That was yesterday morning and I haven't done anything since except go through your pics and look out my office window hoping the swell will stick around for a Sat morning dawn paddle. I can only dream about what it must be like surfing Hawaii. I live on the Sth Coast of NSW Australia where we get some quality surf, but not for a while now. Anyways, I love this site. I'll be back. It's really good to see these raw photos. Makes it all seem more accessible and spiritual (if you know what I mean?!?!) Alrighty then, take care, go green, look after your ocean.

Large (or A.D. or Andrew)

hiya bud
as always, great pics & journal - joey to be 1 yr old on 15th ?! many happy birthday wishes to him

alas NO surf trip to report on
my stick waits patiently in the cupboard - all waxed up and no where to go...
regards
kev

Bud,
 We have some video of Peru, but nothin great, as no one wanted to video the good days, everyone wanted to surf.
I tried your approach, using a disposable camera. Though we were wearing spring suits, I didn't have a good place to put the dang thing. I tide it to my leash, half way between my foot and the board. It worked, but it left me always worrying about it. I took it out on a smaller day. Otherwise I think it would of broke the rubber band. And the drag was a little noticable, besides lookin stupid (cruzing down a face with this thing bouncin behind me. Ha.
My one buddy put the rubber band around his neck. I wasn't going for that.

Bill-
I'm sure Sponge will be relieved to know that he's no longer needed as a pawn for the Surf Gods ;)

--

Added a new page with thumbnailed pics http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/106.html

Bud -" /m261 LOL Bill. I'll pass the word to Neal and see what I can do - "

Bud,

I've been thinking about just how bad the surf is here, when Sponge is in town.

I've also given a bit of thought about how much better it is immediately before and after a Sponge Visit.

In fact, I've been thinking so much, and so hard about this phenomenom, that I've fooled the surf gods into thinking that a Neal visit is imminent.

The surf has been getting better every day since I discovered the mind / surf god connection.

I know it's not nice to try to trick Mom Nature but I was just about ready to sell my soul to the devil, until today's B***k's reward.

So, disregard my previous post...keep Neal there, I'll just continue to con the gods into believing that Neal is going to be here soon...I know that the gods just want everyone in San Diego to be able to say to Neal:

"YOU SHOULD DA BEEN HERE YESTERDAY!"

If there is no "Today" for Neal in La Jolla, then we won't have to worry about "Yesterday?"

He's all yours.

Thanks,

BA
http://community.webshots.com/user/bill_andrews21

Added 2 new Surf Links to this page http://www.wavelust.com/links.html (Chunns Reef dot com and Claudia Ferrari dot com)

Erik- sounds like a great surfari you had, I'm guessin you got plenty photos?

----
/m260 Thanks for the kind words Matt!

Hey Bud,
 Peru was excellent. No big barrels, but big rollers for all. Stayed at Pico Alto (south of Lima). Never went under chest high. Largest I was in was 13 foot. Outside Pico Alto some tow-ins were going on (20 footers out there). We watched. Emerald green water. Lotsa dust and dirt. Locals are great.
Surfed Punta Rocas, Senioritas, Caballeros, etc. All breaks over rocks. Long rides, long paddles...

A few pics I snapped on the beach at Rocky's yesterday
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/020202a.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/020202b.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/020202c.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/020202d.jpg

/m261 LOL Bill. I'll pass the word to Neal and see what I can do

/m262 Max - August is kind of a transitional month, the fuzzy time between summer & winter. On one hand you have potential for good surf on both the north and south shores; on the other hand you could get stuck with windslop for weeks. I'm sure there will be some kind of surf, but more likely small summer surf in August.

/m263 Laks - I sent you an email this morning (Sunday)

hey bud.

I dunno if you gonna check this tonight but i might try hook up with you tomorrow morning to check out those boards - anyway if you could e-mail me your number

cowherdboys@hotmail.com - i'll give you a call tonight if nottoo late or tomorrow morning

Hi Bud just a quick information

We're surfer from Italy and we'dlike to spend 3 weeks in August. Are there nice spot per medium surfer in August or we risk to swim only?

Thanks in advance
Ciao

Hey Bud,

It would be a pleasure to take you to B****'s, or H******ls, or B*g R**k, etc.

One request though:

PLEASE send your buddy, El Sponge-o, - over and back - for a one day visit.

If you arrive the day AFTER he leaves La Jolla, you will be guaranteed good waves, starting on that day.

In fact, the waves have been so c****y here for the past 2 weeks, that I think I'LL pay for him to make a quick trip back and forth.

I still believe in miracles!

BA
http://community.webshots.com/user/bill_andrews21

bud,
What a great web site to check out. Ive been away from home for about 12years and have just starting surfing again on the central coast in California. Your pictures say it all, and bring back good memories of the local life...take it easy-

Edited by author 02-01-2002 01:31 PM
/m256 Mahalo Jon - paddle up and give me a holler next time!

Well looks like we're gonna miss - it's 830am now and I'm just heading out to the country in a few minutes. My place is near the stadium, drop me an email if you want to set up a time/place to meet this weekend or whenever. I may end up putting them on consignment at Haleiwa Surf-n-Sea next week if I can't sell them myself

I 'm looking for a board around that size. I knocked the nose off my six four. Where could we meet up so I could check them out? (I'd go for the cheaper one if any) - I live in Kailua. I'm heading out to the North shore tomorrow - probably from like 6:30am till 9:30am I'll be over there.

let me know

Bud,
  This has got to be one of the best non-commercial surfing websites I have ever seen. A friend and I were in Oahu two winters ago and havent stopped checking out this site since. I actually saw you you in the line-up at Laniakea one day, the pictures cant give those waves justice in real life. I get so stoked reading about your sessions and checking out the pics. Cant wait to get back to Oahu next winter. Keep up the great work.

Jon

I have two 6'3" Glen Pang thrusters for sale if anyone locally knows someone looking for such. One is in excellent condition, the other is good but needs ding repair. Both have Red-X (fka Excel) fin systems, tailpads; I'll throw in extra sets of fins and used leashes if you want 'em. Email me bud@wavelust.com or post reply here for more info. $225 & $150, both for $325, OBO. I'd consider a trade for a good gun in the 7' to 8' foot range.

Thanks Bill.. I sincerely appreciate the kudos. I'm still constantly surprised by all the positive feedback I get.

Chuns is still one of the most fun waves around, but the lineup gets full real quick, especially when it's on. I recognize the name (Mobley) but cannot remember anything specific atm.

One day I'm gonna make it out to your neck of the woods and you'll have to take me out for a surf at Bl**ks! :-)

Bud,

What a great site you have!!

1. My first time in The Islands (~ 1966) I surfed almost daily at Chun's. Great waves, and a guy I got to know - John Mobley - lived in a tree house there. John was one of the best surfers I have ever seen...any stories about him still circulating?

2. The first time I surfed at Chun's, there was a shark between me and the shore. I was c****ing in my trunks, but one of the locals said the shark was a good spirit or something like that...whew...!

3. Great advice you gave DaRat or whatever his name is on alt dot surfing regarding not becoming a buoy...I printed it, giving you FULL credit, and gave it to one of my buoy like co-workers.

He won't listen to me, but maybe coming from you.....??

BA
http://community.webshots.com/user/bill_andrews21

Added a Journal entry http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/jan02.html#012702

Added new Pics (frame grabs courtesy http://www.chunsreefsurfclub.com) to this page (bottom) http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/105.html

I'm behind on a few journal entries but I did put up a new Photo page with fresh pics from this morning - http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/105.html

Excellent conditions and the waves were pretty epic, reeling all the way across. Solid 2xoh, a few sets were 2.5xoh, maybe even a little bigger. Maaaaassive crowd, especially on the end section (shoulder hoppers gone wild!)

HMark /m248 - my son loves the water (so far!)

Dude,

You're real life pics of Hawaii and commentary of each where cool....poor little puffer fish..:) but that's the circle of life.

Thanks for sharing with the surfing community. If you feel up to it I'd like you to visit my site. KillerSurfLinks.com and add your site to mine..http://www.killersurflinks.com/addsite.htm

I'm sure the KSL community would benefit from your site, so please add it to my directory....and if you deem it worthy enough, could you add my site to your links page?

Mike http://www.killersurflinks.com

Looks like Joey will be ripping soon ....

Yep, I found out about a bit later that there were still some waves at certain spot... oh well

one spot had some good over head sets.
just mad crowded

Added a pic of my son (Nov 20, 2001) to this page http://www.wavelust.com/look.html

Flatsville in the country this morning

Added new Journal entries http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/jan02.html

Great fun yesterday. Added a Journal entry here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/jan02.html#011702

Sounds like a memorable session Laks... I can relate to what you went through. I thought about Sunset Tuesday morning but knew that I didn't have the equipment for it.

Looks like the new bump is hitting, gonna shoot for an afternoon run today but not sure yet. The winds have really picked up.

I went to Log Cabins first on 15th and it wasn't catching the swell full on (maybe 8 ft. faces on the sets). There was a long left breaking pretty close to shore - I got one sick backside barrel but it got maxed out with spongers pretty damn quick.

After that i headed down to Sunset (it was catching the swell) it was kind of early still and could only see a few guys out - paddled out and there was like 8 guys out - everyone kind of sitting in a different spot and everyone paddling all the time - there were sets wrapping around the point from the North and Sets breaking way outside from the West - nearly got into a couple of sweet ones. Then a macking set came through - I kind of scraped over a couple that were just heaving from the west and then duckdove some whitewater from a couple that broke way outside.

Looked around and I was the only one still out. (my friend took 3 on the head - broke his board and got beat all the way in. I was way out of position and started paddling my ass off. I swung around on a medium sized one (6 ft.) and rode it all the way in. It was just too all over the place (i heard it cleaned up in the afternoon. I dunno how big it was - but it was pretty f--kin big.

Sounds like H-----y-s was the spot to be - next time.

Added new disposable cam Photos to this page http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/103.html
Added new page of disposable cam Photos here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/104.html
Added new Journal entries here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/jan02.html

Surfed waaaay outside at Himalayas this morning, took a few shots with the disposable, but never got a good shot and ran of of film. 4-6 people out and the surf was pretty big; beautiful heaving barrels, 10'-16' faces, a few sets pushing 18' maybe 3xoh. Developed the camera and got this one shot of the inside section though, you can see the guy behind decided not to go for the upcoming bowl. The guy in front got pitched into oblivion and never came back out. Will try to get a better scan of the photo when I get home tonight.

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/011502.jpg

that video of rich at Makaha got me sh*ttin bricks.
You can only appreciate that vid, if you been to Makaha.
That sh*t is nuts. Good thing he made it.

Edited by author 01-11-2002 02:20 AM
Jealous ,jealous, jealous! ... Heard that the same day Rabbit Island was sweet also. Got another quick AM sess at the Point day b'fore yesterday...OK not the juiceiness of the day before but hell, waves were there so it was worth the time and effort...Your "X" spot looked (as usual)...Choice! ... I somehow keep regretting joining the military ... NOT! .... They sacrifice too much for not enough, God Bless 'em... Planning to go to the country tomorrow if all the CHORES are pau soon enough... working on getting a camera for the shorts, got the digital, will purge em to ya if there anything worthwhile, Hope your winds blow off-shore, Peace...

Added the new Photos (bottom) to a new page with other recent pics http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/103.html
Added a few short Journal notes from recent sessions
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/jan02.html

Hey HMark, glad to hear you're getting some surf... been plenty of it to go around lately, too bad the winds have been mostly onshore for the country though. I've had a few decent sessions too, but been falling behind with updating the website (busy at work!). Anyway, me and Rich (later Makani showed up too) had 3 hours of some fun stuff yesterday eve... here's a few pics I shot as we were driving away pau surf - you windward side peoples will recognize the spot (they have really clamped down on access to the "other" nearby place since 9/11). The sets were inconsistent, but about half again bigger than the waves in the pics, hollow and punchy on the inside sections -

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/010902a.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/010902b.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/010902c.jpg

Yo Bud! --- Gota nice sess out at Full Point today ... fun waves... not too much crowd nice wrap for the point - a- holics .. da usuals out, and some nice ones when the wind died. i heard the Eddie went. always thought it should be: GO, Eddie would. Any way, hope you got your share, bro. Aloha, and Peace ...

Don't have time to put up a web page tonight but the pics and vids are uploaded so here's a peek at what we got today. Nothing spectacular but nice conditions (slight side shore winds) and suuuuper fun head high to overhead and a half with total 3-6 people out.

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/010102.jpg Didn't wait around to snap any pics of the sets (had some solid 8 foot faces) but here's Rich on his last wave-
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/010102r.jpg

We traded off with the video cam for one wave each before jumping in to surf-
http://www.wavelust.com/real/010102r.asf (0.5meg)Rich
http://www.wavelust.com/real/010102bx.asf (1.0meg)Bud

Happy new year

Hooked up with a friend for a few hours of crowded but decent east side action. Took a few minutes of video before jumping in. Slapped together a short clip - unknown surfers 28 sec(1.8 meg)

http://www.wavelust.com/real/123001.asf

Edited by author 12-29-2001 07:01 PM
past week... east side firing... epic conditions...

Thanks Kev, nice pics btw...

--

Hit the country at dawn this morning, met Neal at Lanis then checked most of the coastline. Almost rideable, but very stormy and mostly washing through everywhere. Ended up scrubbing the session.

hey bud

as always, great pics that keep me smiling!
can you beleive i am actually working today and monday too.damn.a few full rail turns for me would be a treat.keep on surfing.

kev still in london.not surfed since may.ouch.

Added a Journal entry and links to a few digital cam pics http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/dec01.html#122601

A couple crude vid clips for those with fat connections or a dial up & lots of patience

Massive glare from setting sun (filming directly into sun) and way way way to far away, but here's brother Rich dropping into a monster Wednesday (12/26) eve at Makaha, looks bigger than 3xoh. Watch closely at it exactly half way through, you can see him drop in, disappear then re-appear going down the face. Sorry about the size (3meg)
http://www.wavelust.com/real/122601r.mpg
His last wave (2.8meg)
http://www.wavelust.com/real/122601r2.mpg
Bud at ******, camera battery died after 2 waves; the tiny surf sucked at ****** anyway. (1meg)
http://www.wavelust.com/real/122601b.asf

Thanks and same back atcha HMark..

--

Added a couple short Journal entries for the latest sessions http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/dec01.html

Seasons wishes ...(waves) to you and yours Bud, have a safe holidays... Bombs a 'comin for the end of the year eh? ...See you out there soon ... Aloha

Jeez what a let down... 8:30am - 11:45am, some fun surf but only occasionally overhead all up & down the coast.

Planning to hit the country again tomorrow morning; I did a little lazy kine crystal ball work and will be looking to see how close to reality this all pans out
(http://www.wavelust.com/links.html)

Forecast called for 5' Hawaiian scale waves hitting buoy 1 today-
http://ilikai.soest.hawaii.edu/HILO/localsize.html

Looks like the first hint of the forecasted swell registered on the 7pm reading at buoy 1 (8'@14 seconds)-
http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.phtml?$station=51001
The wave/period reading was appx 8' @ 14 seconds; according to this chart, that corresponds to 6' Hawaiian scale waves-
http://www.wavelust.com/wavechart.html

At 14 second periods, according to this chart, the swell should hit the north shore in around 12 hours (7am)
http://imina.soest.hawaii.edu/%7Ebuoy/travel_time.html

Added a page for the latest Photos http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/102.html

And short Journal entries for the past few sessions http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/dec01.html

Fun session in small but uncrowded Rocky Rights Friday afternoon. I took a few digital cam Pics after surfing. About 515pm, raining and cloudy

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/121401.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/121401a.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/121401b.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/121401c.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/121401d.jpg

If anyone in the Rocky Point area finds a stray fuji disposable water proof camera with 24 exposures left on it, it's MINE!

'sup, HMark... yep this weather is really fucked. I heard there were 100mph gusts up at Haleakala! Looks like it may be starting to calm down a bit today but I'm thinking (on the NS) the runoff from all this rain is gonna make things cruddy at some spots for a day or two. But I be jonesin for surf so I'll probably take off this afternoon to get wet somewhere.

Howzit again Bud ... 'puter been down for a few days ... windows problems ... great Haleiwa stuff, know the rip current feeling! Wind swells, hey it is like home! Not had a chance to surf much of late 'sides the pounding @ Sandys full point once since the winds have started, and that was the usual, got it, ooops dont, oh my god ill be paddling for days now stuff...I think i know your love for getting wet a bit better now, WORK .... for what my 2 cents is worth, makes SURF all that much more enjoyable, sure all would like to be PAID to surf, cruise the world, smile for the Photogs, la la la , but the real world of responsibilites makes ANY session SOOOO much more valuable, it is like the hours spent working are multiplied in stoke when you go SURFING ... Owl Chapman said it best (IMHO) .. when he said in SURFERS (DA movie) "hey give a hoot, give a wave, tell your bro' he had a choice one, follow him home, he might have a sister"... Any way, da best to you in the coming holidays....PEACE

Money aint everything.

Matt, how did you get that idea? Being self employed gives me some freedom to surf, more than most nine to fivers; on the other hand I work EVERY day and never know how much (if anything) I'll make from one month to the next. I pay the bills and make a modest living to support me and my family.

bud...what kind of job do you have? it seems like you have money without work

Added a short Journal entry for Sunday surf http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/dec01.html#120901

Added new Photo page w/thumbnails http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/101.html
and a new Journal entry http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/dec01.html#120701

Had a pretty intense session out at Haleiwa this morning. On top of the infamous river-like current, every once in a while some bombs (estimate 15 foot faces) plowed through. Waited for a few minutes after surfing and took a few shots from shore with the digital but of course none of the big ones came in. Too far away with too little zoom but at least you can see how windy it was.

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/120701a.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/120701b.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/120701c.jpg
poor guy wasn't out 10 minutes. don't think he even caught a wave before his board got snapped
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/120701d.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/120701e.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/120701f.jpg
the same guy swimming for the front half of his board in the foreground

e.s. - saw the pics, nice work! That one of your g/f getting hit by the lip - ouch!

Next time you might try a pair of trunks with a big side pocket and velcro closure- it really makes it easy to carry and use a disposable camera in warm water...

Bud,

posted the better photos at saltwaterdreams forum,...
under topic "hopefully HA pix"

not as good as yours, but good enough for us.

thanks again
e.s.

Jaws is near Hookipa. Go over there and ask the locals for directions, Its not too far from Hookipa though, you gotta walk this trail and it takes you to the cliff where you can check the surf.

I have never been there. Try http://www.yahoo.com and do a search for "peahi, laird hamilton" and see what you can find out.

Aloha All,
I'm looking for directions to veiew jaws i live in paia but dont know where to turn Mahalo

Added a new pic to (middle) this session page http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/097.html Photo courtesy of surfbud Neal Miyake

Edited by author 11-29-2001 03:18 PM
New Photos added here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/100.html

Didn't get many pics but the surf has been pretty sweet these past couple weeks!

---
/m202 "portlock homies w/o a clue" hahaha too funny HMark! They're everywhere I tell ya.

---
/m201 Hey e.s. you gonna show those pics on the net somewhere? Be cool to see what you got

Hey whats up? Cool site. In case you dont know...Jesus is interested in having a relationship with you. Caution: you might find out how cool He really is. p e a c e

Thanx for the wishes! ... Things looking better now, and we are into rehab for her.. so that is a plus. Got to surf Seconds on the wind aided swell today and yesterday mush burgers and such, but with the ol' coffin lid Hobie it was fun if not refreshing. Part of the fun of Seconds is just hoping to piss off the jerks that want to have it for their own ( portlock homies w/o a clue ) .. but i have met a bunch of Kamaaina that are just so totally righteous about the situation there ... lots of old timers with the heart of a grom. Future surf situations not the best of all, but who knows? Just gotta check out the spots.. Hope you get some, whatever may come, that is! ... Peace! ...

shoot,...i wrote the wrong date,
we surfed makaha wed, november 21st. I dont remember the time, perhaps noon.

As far as using the waterproof camera in the water,..I got pounded a number of times trying to paddle w/ it in my hand. finally I put the rubber band around my neck w/ the camera on my back and that worked out great, I could surf and take pictures all day long. It never came off, even after a heavy beating at backyards. It worked out great, we'll see how the pix develope.

Thanks again

Howdy e.s.

Glad you had good surf at Makaha... although it was the 21st (http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/099.html) when I was there. The 17th I was out at Rocky Pt.

As you noticed, that other spot you mention can be quite fickle. I've been surfing there since I was a kid, it's always hit or miss, usually miss. Needs a lot of things to come together, but it does happen fairly regularly. Without getting into too much detail, basically it needs a really big swell, when most NS spots are closing out. It may break on smaller ones, but rarely. Better at low tide

bud,
i have enjoyed your site for a few months now, great site, cant wait for the updates to the journal and photos.

my girlfriend and i just got back yesterday from a trip out there, had a great time. We also surfed makaha (from your journal/photos) on wed nov 17, might have seen you out there. it was a fun day, and some friendly people in the water.

a while ago on another BB you showed me photos of a spot just north of g. lanterns that we had surfed perfect waves back in march. We were hoping to surf it again this trip, but even w/ g. lanterns well overhead, it was practically flat this trip. Question: Does it require more west swell? really low tide?

thanks
e.s

Thanks for the kind words,Todd..

-----

/m196 Hey HMark, sorry to hear the bad news... here's hoping for a 100% recovery

Cool Website! Good quality pics from those disposable camera's!! I have tried to pics of myself with them and got some decent ones, but not as good as yours! Good job!!

Looks like more surf in the forecast, Bud! Weather may not be the best acording to P. Caldwell, but we never know about those certain spots , eh? ... Hope you and yours had a FULL Turkey day... If you are the praying type, say one for my Ma-in-law, she had a major stroke, 1am turkey day, so lotta time at the hospital in the near future... ( keeping the fingers crossed ) anyway best to you and yours STILL THANKFUL no matter what ... take care, Peace, ( great pix of the west side! , what a pleasure to see the line-up so open and INVITING! ) ... hope your winds are off shore, Laters....

Added a few Photos taken from shore after my Wednesday session
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/099.html
Working on a couple Journal entries will post them now because I may not get around to finishing them http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/nov01.html#112101

/m192 Yeah HMark has it been epic or what!? Agreed- No shortage of surf and sweet conditions quickly making up for a shitty summer. Glad to hear you're getting yours too.

/m193 Thanks kev... the crowd that morning at Pipe/Backdoor was off the scale. A friend visiting from the mainland got some killer video footage and will have it up on the web soon. I'll post the link when he's done.

hey bud

great pic of pipe hurling abuse at the pre dawnies!

have a good weekend
regards
kev-stuck-in-london-as-usual....

Happy Turkey Day - Full Winter mode in the house? ... Lite winds, Absolutely perfect weather ... I am giving out the Thanx this year for sure ... ( i just have short term memory loss over the late start to winter & so-so summer ) ... Got a sess in at the "P" point out Haleiwa way, me(surf wise) and daughter ( beach wise ) had a blast, next day wrap swell at Full point lo-crowd, good waves, Smiling! ... took up your advice to write some notes on my own sess in a diary like thing, kinda refreshing! As usual the pix & such ...No Ka Oi! ... Peace .. no eat too much, eh? ...

Check out www.rickleeks.com

Yes...can you tell me what JAWS is? i think it's in late December off of Maui....and only a few attempt to ride it...i would appreciate an answer on this ty JAWS

Larry email me let's go surf Wednesday

bud got to surf mokuliea side wed thurs fri sat all good days some rolling threw sets but fri and sat were awesome days just ask the 40 other guys in the line up

Edited by author 11-19-2001 03:57 PM
New Photos added
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/097.html
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/098.html

And new Journal entries added
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/nov01.html

Pipe/Backdoor this morning

(194k) http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/111701c.jpg

Thanks HMark..

--
Added a Journal entry for yesterdays session http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/nov01.html#111501

Stoked to see the new pix, Bud! ... Sharp links too! ... Going on 4 days off so out of town for some tastes... take care, Peace!

Added a new page with Photos
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/097.html there should be a few more for this page when i finish off this disposable camera

Added a short Journal entry, plus an email from MM
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/nov01.html#111201

Added a page with new Photos from a session earlier this month http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/096.html

Buoy 1 has been pinging 6' @ 17-20 seconds all morning http://seaboard.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.phtml?$station=51001
Dead winds and sunny skies! I hope you guys are getting some today, should be sweet by this afternoon. Stuck at work today but I'll be on it tomorrow. . .

Currently working on a Links page
http://www.wavelust.com/links.html
Hawaii specific reports, buoys, etc. plus other non commercial surfing websites.

Edited by author 11-13-2001 12:42 AM
Stoked to meet and surf with Tom (of http://www.wavecam.com) today on the North Shore. Surf was pretty solid beach break action, some 10'+ faces every once in a while. Tom was out mixing it up along with me and Neal. I got (I hope it turns out) a disposable camera shot of sponge making an incredibly late drop on a beautiful wave, with a borrowed 7'10". I spent the last hour trying to surf with a badly bruised toe that I re-injured on a rock while getting drilled. Hurt like a sonofabitch, esp when I bottom turned.

A few preview photos taken from shore after we surfed. Too far away and didn't realize I had my digital cam on the middle res setting-

Hard to tell but that is a stand up bottom turn there
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/111201a.jpg

You can see the guy getting barreled on the left http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/111201b.jpg

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/111201c.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/111201d.jpg

looks like lotsa surf potential coming up this week

Had 25 second energy at 8pm on buoy 1
http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.phtml?$station=51001
Should be pretty solid by tomorrow morning. Hopeful that the wind won't be too bad,,, will try to get some pics.

Added a Journal entry for Saturday http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/nov01.html#110301

Me and my brother Rich had a fun surf on Saturday. Some new Photos from the session here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/095.html

Edited by author 11-05-2001 01:40 AM
Yeah vland1, looking forward to hear what you got. I ended up sleeping in on Sunday.

Have not made a web page yet but here are the just scanned pics I took from our Saturday session out at pipe-

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110301a.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110301b.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110301c.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110301d.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110301e.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/110301g.jpg

   surfed vland sat and sunday both days where so-so, sat a little to big for vland some rolling threw sets but if you picked the right wave you could get into a nice little nugget. Sunday came down more than I had expected 2 to 4 feet but still beats watching tv at home. I'l tell you how it was on monday.

Thanks Scott. Yep, looking good for the next several days although the wind is gonna be blazin.

/m170 Laks I'm in the market for a gun also, around 7'- 7'4" . . Just ordered a new 6'3" today for all around stuff. I have two 6'3" 's for sale, one is is good condition- the other is in excellent condition. If anyone is interested, I can post photos of the boards...

sup bud. great site. must be nice with winter coming in. looking forward to seeing more pics. aloha

if anyone knows of anyone with some old boards for sale for cheap (7'2 range) let me know.

November just started and i already broke my gun aggghhhh!

damn, guess I should have taken a look.... I checked from Lanis to VLand, but was short on time. Based on the lack of cars at Ehukai I assumed the beachbreaks were no good...

---

Looks like more action on the way (http://ilikai.soest.hawaii.edu/HILO/localsize.html) so I may try to get wet again tomorrow. Need to get some new pics.

pipe was so fun yesterday morning (wednesday) got out at like 6:45 and surfed for a couple of hours with minor crowd - then I broke my 7'2 and split

backdoor was pretty fun early this morning.

if you wait .......they will come.. is it nov already ....

Hey kev-

A surfing pic for sure .... uhh, a wakeboard pic, welllll...

---

Surf was pretty good today, I expected much bigger but not complaining. Surprised at how excellent the conditions were.

howzit going ?

london still sucks.got in some wakeboarding - can i submit a pic? but now too damn cold for much else.

as always - i would appreciate that next vert top to bottom combo - enjoy da winter

I was looking over some older pics & took a few minutes brightening the disposable cam photos on this page http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/070.html The original pics didn't come out very well but even so I dunno why I had left them so dark. That was a good day of surf.

I'm guessin it must be pretty stormy down eastside, HMark? My friend was gonna check that left break on the right side of the point opposite N Beach@KBay last weekend, hoping that it might be protected from the NE winds. Dunno how he made out yet, but should have had some size.

Aloha Bud ... Firefighters 4 days off (well 3 being i gotta work jobbo #2) ... went by Sandys to-day and the wind swell-o-lopolis was in Full effect! Ah shoots! could not go out and paddle my arse off, today, but who knows for tomorrow... hope Mama lets Papa off da homework....Winds die i may actually have some fun ones.....But hommie dont think the winds are dying... Country looks to be be coming up ( Love Pat C. and Jerome w/ da forecasts, learned alotto stuffs just reading them and linking from 'um...) Take it EZ Aloha ... as always ...Peace.... Good luck w/ the surf to ya Erik .... Surf trips are always the BEST .. ( spread the ALOHA.....)

Hope you score epic surf on your trip Erik...

More proof of how good you guys got it:
 Here I am, sittin in the middle of the goddamn anthrax state. New Jersey. The one (Trenton, Hamilton) Post Office is about 5 miles from my house. Shut down, with 3 postal employees having anthrax. News vans all around the building. I pass it on my way to the beach. I grew up around West Trenton, the other Post Office that is shut down. I have a PO Box there for cripes sake! I can't get my mail! And I think twice every time I pull my mail from my home mail box. I used a plastic glove yesterday! Geesh...
 The surf was excellent (for NJ standards) in Sept.
But October has been lame except for 2 days. Real nice 6 foot clean barrels one day. Get in fast, bottom drops out and your in. Pulled into a stiff backside barrel, and made it out clean.
That was on Long Beach Island, NJ.
 Going to Peru late December for 11 days. Can't wait to GET OUTTA HERE!
 You guys got it so good.
Lov yas!

?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
what do these messages mean????

A bit smaller and more disorganized but still some double-oh pluses out there today. Btw HMark, ran into Rios out here this morning

sup HMark... I hear what your sayin. Btw, I know Larry form waaay back, cool dude & he shreds!

Speaking of N wrap, Laniakea was solid 2xoh all morning! Where'd that come from!? (I'm not complaining). Hope you and Cameron will get some of this, it was very consistent. I had a great session :-)

Howzit Bud...Jay did move shop over to Cummins St. new location same mellow guy, great ding/shaper in my view, sorry to hear the lo-down out w/ the "pro" LBer's ... only surfed w/ the paid group a few times at different spots and as you say, the domination 'tude is a bit much for me to stomach...Out at Full Point the "rotation" seems to always be even steven, but on those no-wind, N wrap days, when the boys come out to play, I usually hope to have gotten there early and had my full share, Coffee waiting, OUTTA THERE b'fore the vibe-o-matics show up,...( such hostilities !!! )L.Rios always gives the hoots and passes 'em around freely, ( always grabs the choice ones when in the spot, too ) ... IMHO, I just try to beat the crowd, and get outta Dodge 'fore Noon, I was of the view the more you gave the more you get, but ....hope the kookism skates off, ( i tend to always have mine looking over my shoulder ) .... Hope you winds always blow off-shore....Peace!

Surprise! It's overhead in the country right now (saturday morn).

Gone surfin

WE SHOULD BE IN FULL WINTER MODE. ITS ALMOST NOV.
SADNESS.
WHATS THE DEAL.
HOPEFULLY THE SWELLS ARE JUST ON LAY-AWAY TILL THE
PROS GET THE HELL OUTTA HERE.
PRAY FOR SURF IN 2002

Ok Kev, will see what I can do <grin> Say 'ello to the Queen Mum for me, eh?

The local surf forecast http://ilikai.soest.hawaii.edu/HILO/localsize.html is not looking very promising, though.

hey bud - please dedicate next full rail roundhouse cuttie to me.in london,got no waves.
thanks.
regards kev.

Added a short Journal entry http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/oct01.html#102101

Added a short Journal entry for the Thursday session http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/oct01.html#101801

(Dwight O) we were team mates for HIC back then; In fact I ran into him surfing out at a west side spot last year... Don't recognize the others 'cept for Jay Rush - don't know him but he does the best ding repairs! Didn't he move from his Kakaako shop recently?

Head high ... hmmmmmmmmm I guess i am never sure WHAT to call it anymore to tell the truth, but was Fun for me and my resident terror, we had a day out, and beaching it is always a fun outing... Hey by the way, you remember Dwight Obayashi from around the time you were competing? I am pretty sure he was riding for HIC or T&C, my class mate @ St. Louis & a Sandys regular ( tho' i haven't seen the bro' in a while ) ... Other names to throw around ... how bout Carson Tamura? ... Bobo Kanoa ( rescued Carson )... Jay Rush ... my favorite shaper friend and HFD bro... Any how, glad you Caught the drift on the humorside, I always enjoy the V I E W ( ! ) of the SURFING? industry, some how i think the HARDER they try the more they miss it ... Aloha for now .. ( if ya see Cameron, tell him i miss the BS sess at the RHH.... Peace.

Edited by author 10-16-2001 08:29 PM
HMark- DOh! now I see!

---

How was the surf today? I heard there were some head high.

Added a couple short Journal entries here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/oct01.html#101301 No new pics yet. Forecast isn't looking so hot for the next few days..

Amateur Surfing Website w/ 100% Original Content... I like the sense of humor you had in the last one...(GRIN)...
Off to the country today w/ Grommet Daughter ... Aloha

'sup HMark, what does this mean-

"ASWUEW100%OC ... ? DOT COM?"

??

Bud -
      ASWUEW100%OC ... ? DOT COM?... Wind swells, wind swells, no 2nd job, broke truck, N swell on way? ... Aloha for now ... Great Chambers pix! ... Classic "tooth" fairy story too ... Peace!

Stacey, thanks for the kudos.

The costs to maintain and provide content to my site are "funded" by me - - it's non profit and commercial free, so I'm curious what you meant by "keep up the great work supporting the surfing industry." Don't get me wrong - I have nothing against the surfing industry, just interested how that popped up. Also, I didn't see a category in your directory or sign up for "Amateur Surfing Websites Updated Every Week with 100% Original Content and No Advertisements" <grin>

Edited by author 10-12-2001 04:46 PM
Bud,

You have a great site with great content.
You really have a great selection of pics and your layout on the site makes it all easy to find. Great Job!

I'd like to personally invite you to check out my new site.
KillerSurfLinks.com (KSL) is a SURFING SEARCH ENGINE, made by surfers for surfers. It's one of the most popular Internet Search Engines among the REAL surfing community.

While you're there, feel free to add your site to my directory and keep up the great work supporting the surfing industry.

Shaka Bra,
Stacey (a.k.a. Surfer Girl)
Surfers Building Internet Tools for Surfers
http://www.killersurflinks.com/

Rich you freak, keep yer noxious fumes to yourself!

Sounds like you guys had a blast at Six Flaggs, etc. - Chris was non stop about it when I picked them up at the airport!

Adrien- Got your email, thanks for the kind words, see ya in the surf

Thanks to Adrien for checking out Bud's site! Stoked you like it. Hey Bud killer new pics and what a day at GAs Chambers. The only Gas chamber I been in lately is the one cloud I laid at the Sandiego library the other day! Any who glad youz and the boys are getting some. Aloha and be back shortly.

Aloha to Rich & crew,
I met Rich a few days ago at my friends surf shop. He told me to check out your site and I dig it! Stay wet!
Mahalo,
Adrien
Old Town Surf Co.
San Diego, CA

Of course bruddah Bud. Most definitely! We go surf. I'm sure Darrin and crew will be looking forward to these surf sessions.I would also like to get you in on the Canoe surfing action. Maybe even see if you could snap a couple of shots with us all on canoe on some "sizable" surf out Diamond Head.

Regards,


Marcos

Marcus! Thanks for the words about my website. Stoked to run into you and Darrin the other day. We have to get in the surf one day in the country. Gimme a heads up (bud@wavelust.com) next time you guys head out and maybe I can get a "covershot" of you :-)

Yo Erik- sounds like some solid surf; Great to hear you're having fun!

Hey Bud, in case I forgot, My e-mail is marcusm@servco.com. Aloha.

Aloha Bruddah Bud!! Finally got to check out your website and I say... Wow! Cool pics. I printed out a few of them off on to my High volume Canon color laser copier in office. So if you want to have them, e-mail me or give Darrin Henderson a ringie. Hope to see more pics as well as you in the surf.

If your ever interested in doing some CANOE SURFING, don't hesitate to come by our house on 3115b Diamond Head Road. My roomate Bob & I bought a four-man canoe strickly for surfing. Its such a blast. Darrin's tried it and he loved it.

Hope your surfing today. If not, have a great day anyway and I'll see you soon. A hui hou, malama pono.


Regards,

Marcos

Bud,
  Great reading your journal. You have had some incredible surf lately I see. Excellent.
 So, I made it down to the Outer Banks, NC for a week (since my Hawaii trip was cancelled). Got a lucky day of surfing in. Nor'easter stormed the surf for 2 days, then on the 3rd, the wind turned west and cleaned it up. An excellent (for east coast standards) clean 6-10 foot morning session. Mostly lefts. Only a few rights to be had. Got some great bombs. But my morning session was abruptly ended after 2 hours by a blown leash plug. Got pounded and the wave just ripped that plug right out. There I am, floating pretty much in the impact zone, no board. The swimming began. Over to the left, then in towards the beach, then back to the right to retrieve my board.
 Second session after lunch... waves down a bit, and not as good condtions, but still fun fast walls.
 Third session at 5pm. Different spot... Waves breaking way outside about 5-6 foot. No barrels but fun. No close outs, easy in, easy out, long workable walls that broke left and right. Only about 6 guys out. Had a blast.
 Surfed the Hatteras Lighthouse on Wed. Lame 3 footers on my long board.
 Thanks again for all the great reading and pics!

Thanks Sloan.. yeah I am stoked with that one too (http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/100601nx.jpg). Funny, I had an idea that it would come out nice; The sun popped out just at the right second and was shining right on the "subject" :-)

Somehow, I must have moved the camera in the right way to focus nicely on Neal (my scan came out ok - the print is real nice). Kind of flattened out the wave size though, it was easily 3 feet over head on the face - I almost got thrown over by that lip.

That shot of neal dropping in at gas chambers is excellent - it's so hard to get photos centered the way you want with a disposable camera in surf like that, plus the timing of it... I think that one's perfect!

New Photos added here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/094.html

Edited by author 10-04-2001 12:42 AM
Wrote up a long journal entry for my session out in the country Tuesday (10/201) http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/oct01.html good fun in solid surf

Yo Mark - love these light winds, glad you're scoring. Hope Cameron is getting some too. I saw him ripping it up at the "house" last weekend...

Sandys -- Day2! -- Great swell, Nada wind, ok crowd, Hope it stays the same for the next few days -- Peace! ...

oops

Added a short Journal entry to finish off September http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/sep01.html#092901

Added a Journal write up for yesterdays session http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/sep01.html#092701

Added a page with new water Photos here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/093.html

Added a couple Journal entries for the latest sessions http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/sep01.html

All you need to surfing in Galicia South Coast (Spain West Coast) in http://surf.fiestras.com

Some scans of new disposable camera shots courtesy Neal

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/082601z.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/082601y.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/090901b.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/090901b1.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/090901b2.jpg
Web page here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/092.html

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091601r.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091601b3.jpg
Web page here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091.html

Thanks Sponge!

Added a short Journal entry for Tuesday (9/18/01) session http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/sep01.html

Erik- Glad to hear you're getting some solid surf; And yeah, my wife taped that program for me to watch later, looking forward to seeing it. Keep us posted on your surf trip!

Bud,
 As with Hawaiinmark, I couldn't take it and went surfing also. I was in the water the morning of the attack and in the evening. It was so errie. Surfing Spring Lake, NJ and having the smoke billowing from NYC, going over our heads and out to sea. I too counted my blessings, and realized how spoiled I am. I don't live in a war torn country... I am so extremely lucky to be able to do what I do.
 Did anyone catch the special they had on The Learning Channel (TLC) last night. It was called something like "Understanding the enemy" It was very educational and informative.
 Surf related news: Jersey has been going off for the past 2 weeks. It's all over now though. Got some 7-9 footers on Sat. morning. Only 3 of us out. The adrenaline was at a high. And I heard this past Tues. was absolute classic for NJ. 8 foot and clean as a bell.
 Not making it to Hawaii. Due to the circumstances and a problem with my friend's business trip, all has been canceled. We were lucky to get all our money back.
 Maybe next year...
This Sunday planning my second trip to Costa Rica.

New Pics and short journal entries for our sessions this past week linked here http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091.html

A few "Preview Pics" of what we got today. Some very nice, fun surf... many sets were 2-4 feet overhead but it was very fickle, very frustrating.

Neal was first to jump in the water and I managed to catch his first two waves before I went in
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091601n.jpg Neal
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091601n1.jpg Neal
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091601n2.jpg Neal
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091601a.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091601b.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/091601c.jpg Later after we finished the conditions deteriorated.

Me and Rich will head to the country tomorrow, should be pretty solid.

Nice words, Hawaiianmark, thanks. Remember we're all in this together, and now the world just got a little more wacked out, but I have a good feeling that the good people of the planet will come out on top.

Pass a "howzit" to Cameron for me and see you in the surf!

Aloha Bud... What Man does to Man is sometimes just incredible... It seems that if the world would just get in touch with the real bit of Heaven in the water we might all be the better for it ... I am a firefighter and the CRAP that happened in NYC to the FDNY is just almost too much to fathom, so I had to go surfing, ( not that any of the other horror is not as dispicable, for all those affected ) but it tends too hurt a whole lot in the firehouse at the present time .. Went to Sandy's for a nice session with no wind and a peaceful group out in the water.. The usuals, and a guy from San Diego which was nice to talk story with kind of like getting the world view on the events... i will try to make it short, but today was a session at China Walls, no one out, afternoon to this evening and it made a HELL of a difference for me. rising surf , beautiful conditions, AGAIN! no one out, the tide dropped, wind left and was just damn beautiful...I do not think i have spent as much time counting my blessings, as i did this last time out... sorry to go on so long but, it was wonderful, and it just shed a lot of hope on things for myself. Aloha. ( one more thing ... i work with Cameron at my part time job, spend WAY too much time talking surfing with the Bro' ... God Bless you and yours and keep you all safe ... ) Aloha...

No doubt these are scary times we're living, Erik.

On a lighter note, we've some solid surf inbound, overlapping from opposite directions...

Well, it's been a dreadful state of affairs here. So close to the catastophy. Surfing in Belmar NJ under dirty smoke clouds drifting right over the ocean and out to sea. It was surreal. Floating in the emeral green water, I look north and see the heavy smoke originating from the horizon, just short of the NYC skyline. How can humans be so horrible to each other...

Added 4 more Video Clips to this page http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/087.html#071801

New Video Clips from a July session added to this page http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/087.html

A few more to follow this week

A sad day in history. A turning point for our planet. Pray for the victims and our future.

September 11, 2001; Never Forget.

God Bless America

Getting swell here from Hurrican Erin! Surfed head high close outs this evening in Belmar, NJ. Whoo weee (sarcastic).

Robin sounds a little ticked that we weren't cooperating.

Dsiposable camera somehow popped out of my pocket while surfing yesterday. Bummer; Lost a bunch of pics from the past few sessions.

Looking better for the first winter swell in the country, this weekend.

I got hold of a videotape of some footage of our crew from a session this past July. Vids I'm working on a couple more and trying to reduce the file size but if you want to view the unedited clips, so far 2 are uploaded here

Appx 2meg http://www.wavelust.com/real/071801b.mpg Bud races the wall and ends with a decent off the top

Appx 1.5 meg http://www.wavelust.com/real/071801r.avi Brother Rich taps the lip

The surf was mostly closing out but there were some solid 2xoh sets plowing through. Will have a few more clips later this week

Yo Erik, got the pics.... nice shots! Looks cccolddd though

Robin-

"Paranoia" ? - puhleeez. IMHO, given the amount of double dealing scam spam get rich quick crap that overwhems everyones inboxes, you could have been much more forward in the way you presented yourself.
Your email and dot com name "brandchannel" is what made me a bit suspicious of your motives in the first place and I checked out the site (admittedly a cursory look) from your first post here. Oh well, guess it's a moot point now.

"I guess you guys have never been involved with the press before"
That's funny

Erik and Bud,

I guess it's too much effort to go to www.brandchannel.com to see that it's a legitimate magazine about branding. Sometimes paranoia is a little limiting don't you think?

 I supplied enough details about my self, my email and gave the URL of the website. I don't think it'd be too difficult to confirm whether i'm trying to conduct market research or writing an article since my email and website correspond and my name is all over the website. I guess you guys have never been involved with the press before. I'm sorry to have troubled you. Thanks anyway.

Rich and I checked for the small south swell early this morning- nada- ended up driving back home. Weak, tiny dribble everywhere in town. Buoy 2 is showing some activity guess we'll try again in the afternoon or tomorrow morning

Erik - (first comment) Yeah, I think we're in agreement on that. (about the pics) yeah shoot 'em over to me!

Robin - I see the ads in the magazines. If I recall correctly, most of their ads show high performance surfing and/or sweet wave shots. Can't really say if this is aimed at a certain age of surfer. I suppose if you're into high performance shortboarding, anyone of any age would like the photos and pretty much disregard the ad (as I do), unless I was in the market for the product. As as an avid competetitor when I was much younger I used to have a product sponsorship from Rip Curl way back in the late '70's - early '80s, but not since then have I given much thought about their wetsuits. We don't need them here on Oahu. I'm not familiar with their clothing line, not even sure if they have one. I first surfed back in 1977, I'm from Oahu.

Please let me know before reprinting my comments

Bud, I don't think Robin is writing for an article but more for marketing research (be it indirectly). Ya think?
I got a couple ugly surfin shots I'd like to send to ya. Interested?

Robin, no thoughts come to mind when I think of Rib Curl being marketed towards younger or older generations. I don't have a favorite surf brand. I principally surf in New Jersey and have been for 11 years. No last name.

Erik,
Gen X is up to 35 i think (And Bud you can answer too, it doesn't have to be just kids).

My questions are more along the lines of: do you think Rip Curl is marketed toward your generation or an older one? What do you think of when you think Rip Curl? (e.g., australia? cool/not cool, quality/not, etc.), What's your favorite surf brand and why?

And then some general questions for background: Where do you principally surf? How long have you been surfing for? And do you want to include your last name with your comment? (not necessary) Thanks guys

Robin,
 I'm older also. 31. One other comment... about what I think about Rip Curl compared to the others... "Their goods are to damn expensive also." Yeah, I know a lot has to do with the stores who put the mark up on them... but what can I really say, I can't buy Rib Curl items wholesale.

Bud,
 Thanks for the rashgaurd link.

No it's not market research. I'm writing an article for www.brandchannel.com. The article is about Rip Curl and whether it's a relevant brand for young surfers and what surfers in general think of the brand compared to others. The interview is real short. Check out the site and email if you'd like to help. You both sound like you've got some opinions on the subject ; ) rrusch@brandchannel.com. Thanks! R.

Edited by author 09-05-2001 03:10 PM
Erik you might try http://www.rashgaurds.com I think they have logo-less rashguards. I have no affiliation other than they used a photo of mine with permission and I post occasionally to their surfing bulletin board. The guy who runs it (Ethan) seems to be very customer oriented.

How about this: some surf gear is way overpriced. I can't find a decent rash gaurd without a stinkin logo on it, let alone for a reasonable price. Other items (clothes) are ridiculously overpriced.

I'm o l d (38) - guess I don't fit within the demographic <sniff>

Curious though, is this for market research sold to companies?

Very little traffic here which is fine by me, mainly a way to keep those interested in updates to my website. A few friends & visiting surfers have used it - feel free to use this board for anything surf related; I won't censor but I may delete non surf related or obvious spam/advertisements.

I am a journalist in the US looking for surfers to interview briefly for an article i'm writing on surf gear (eg, Quiksilver, Rip Curl and others). Looking for young surfers (gen X and younger) anywhere in the world to comment for my article. My email address is rrusch@brandchannel.com. Feel free to email me or answer here. Thanks

Buddy my e-mail is darrin_henderson@Berlex.com

Hey Buddy,
     Good to see you in the water at Diamond Head. I wanted the web site for Pat Cauldel? Wanted to try to see about when the next swell is coming and I will be out in theNorth Shore next weekend at a beach house near Lani's.
Hope to hear from you soon and I will let you know about an Indo trip next year once we set a date and know how much it will $.

See you in the water. Darrin

Journal - added new short entries for Friday
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/aug01.html#083101
Plus today (Sunday) and yesterday http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/sep01.html

Journal- added a short entry for Sunday's session. http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/aug01.html#082601

Winter cannot come soon enough. What a pathetic summer this has been.

  Hey Eddy great to hear you got back to OZ safely. Sounds you had a few cold ones before you left your mark on my brothers page haha! Any way good to meet you and hopefully see you soon. Aloha,
                 Rich

Journal - added a write up courtesy Denny Waller about our surf session this past Saturday http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/aug01.html#081801

New Photos from this past weeked (6/18/01) http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/090.html

Hey I passed this message on to my brother Rich, if you guys are watching this board, he'll get back to you soon

How r ya Rich brah, down south west at 1am keen to charge tomnorrow morning at Margaret River. Can't reach u on email and just got contact on this site. Good to see it's still rocking! Mate, keen to get in contact love your work. Here's Cass - Hello Rich I'm Eddy's ex secretary, maggot after a night on the piss, I'm stoked - leaving this Monday going to Indo/Malaysia/Thailand/Nepal for 4 months. Better still unemployed and loving it. Here is Macca - Hey Rich Hows it goin! Just got back from the pub and seem to be having a pretty good night, so far, so good you might say. Ive been told to talk about surfing stuff and travel stuff but don't really know so much about the surfing side of things but with the travels I've done quite a bit! Fuerte Ventura was a great place to explore, and India and Nepal were quite a trip basically the whole world is fucking awesome! And thats about the extent of it! I don't know who you are but I hope you are having a very good time where ever you are in this fantastic world. Take care, catch ya! Here is Gabbi I live with this chick and she's great - here she is!!! Hey Rich! I don't even know who I am attempting to talk to, but "hey, how are you going?" The band at the pub tonight was pretty shit, (incase you were wondering) but you know, it's winter in Dunno! We've just been checking out your pics, pretty filth, hey! Anyway, have a huge one, wherever you might be, or in whichever ocean. Cheers! from the Dunhole! Thats Dunsborough Rich just south of Margarets, take it easy bro and will hopefully catch u nexy season 2002 on our travels of the world of right handers man. The video turned wickard, we all went off! In the next one man Ed

Welllll, the forecast is looking pretty bleak for surf around these parts. Just when I thought I could not take and more choppy windslop, seems like it will be the only thing available for at least another week. Hard to get motivated. Hope someone out there is getting something decent......

Sounds like a sweet day in the surf Erik. Stoked for you.

Had a great session this past Sat. morning. Only 4 foot but real glassy, long workable walls... Surfed for 4 hours straight (6-10am) with 2 of my best buds. Couldn't count the amount of rides I got. It rained on us with such serenity I wanted to cry it was so beautiful. The water was so clear we could see the bottom (rare in NJ). We even saw a fish. Funny. How about that... Had an amazing time with my pals.
  I do enjoy the waves where I live. I considered myself blessed every time I get to go surfing. And double blessed when I get to surf waves in other parts of our world.
Aloha!

I dont know if you remember what i wrote in this board a week or two ago , it was something about enjoying the great waves of hawaii by hawaii surfers and not bitchin about it (bud...) . anyway for all those people who read this board and think : -we have crap waves , we dont get no tubes , the winds allways onshore and so on - heres how it goes here . two months of summer / 7 days of surfable days (higher than kneew and with a bit more punch than a three year old)

enjoy your waves

New Photos added http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/088.html
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/089.html

Btw Gioni, I surfed with Evan Friday Sat & Sun...

Hey G-

I'm working on a new page with new pics ... edited and moved the ones below to -
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/080601aa.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/080601bb.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/080601cc.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/080601dd.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/080601gg.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/080601n.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/080601n1.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/080601hh.jpg

Will have a bunch of new stuff later today

Hey Bud,

Your latest pics aren't there anymore, where can I find them:

http://www.wavelust.com/temp/080601cc.jpg
etc...

G

http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/stik01ba.jpg
http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/stik01bb.jpg
Howzit Liam.. I ride Glenn Pang's shapes, that's his personal "backyard" logo. He's long time T&C shaper.

HEY BUD I VE BEEN CHECKING OUT THE SITE FOR A FEW MONTHS NOW AND ITS GREAT. I LOVE TO COMPARE WERE IVE BEEN SURFING TO YOUR LOCATIONS AND WHEN I WAS BACK NYC FOR VACATION YOUR SITE LET ME KNOW WHAT I WAS MISSING AND THAT WASN'T MUCH. IVE BEEN KEEPING MY EYES PEELED FOR YOU WITH HE WATERPROOF CAMERA. NO LUCK THOUGH. IVE ASKED A FEW GUYS , BUT THEY DIDN'T UNDERSTAND A WORD I WAS SAYING SINCE THEY WERE JAPANESE TOURIST.
 I DID NOTICE IN ONE OF NEILS PHOTOS THE DECAL ON YOUR BOARD. WHATS UP WITH THAT ? IS THAT YOUR SHAPERS DESIGN OR YOUR OWN ? JUST CURIOUS.
TAKE CARE LIAM
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.

Bud,
 Those pics are so beautiful! They're what some dreams are made of.
 You seem to have a great attitude. Isn't that rare for someone who has been surfing for so long... ha.

Lookin for someone who knows the "big island" as I'll be there for about 5 days at the end of Sept. Any suggestions on which breaks to hit.
Then to Oahu (South) for a few days.