Can here



On 21/11/09 10:49 AM, "QT - Jarrod" <qtopic-22-99BavxKCCnk@quicktopic.com> wrote:

>
< replied-to message removed by QT >

Does anyone know if you can still buy a replacement windshield for this bike?

Wow, that's great how much with shipping to the US -New Jersey 07724?

Yes, I'm in New Zealand tho. Hui T


On 19/11/09 11:36 AM, "QT - Cang" <qtopic-22-99BavxKCCnk@quicktopic.com> wrote:

>
< replied-to message removed by QT >

Hey, does anybody have a spare unbent set of front forks of a 1988 ZX750?

My left side slider is bent off center by about 3/16 at each end.

Musta been a curb hit!

Thanks!!!

I could use those bearings. When the shop did my tires, they recommended I do the bearings (front and rear) ASAP. Let me know. I'll paypal you.

Craig

Hey, does anybody need a set of rear wheel bearings? I have two spare sets for my 88 ZX750. Cost? Free! Just pay the shipping from NJ 07724 to any of the 48 States(no overseas please). They are new Pyramid Parts and I'll ship them in a padded envelop, it will be cheap!

Craig.
I'm at tcang@yesstandard.com. Send pics!

I found the seals on Ebay. They were 11.00 or so. All I have left to do is put on the front wheel. Can we post pictures here? I'd love for you to see the bike. It looks awesome. :)

Craig

Craig, I used the PVC pipe trick on my Norton. Worked great. Where did you get the seals. I'd sure like to see pics of bike!

Cang

Just got the seals in today...finally. Hope to complete the assembly on Thursday. Work (my job) has been hectic. No tips so far, but I'd be happy to answer any questions anyone might have. Really pretty easy job. Easier than expected anyway. My seals were not only leaking but were visibly in bad shape. The PVC pipe I bought for "setting" the seals was the best $1.80 I spent on the project. A few quick taps and the seals were set.

Hui S --- I repaired mine by fiberglassing them from the back. First I crazy glued the joint and put bonding powder to dry it up on the back. Crack only slightly visible. Be carefull not to get anything on the paint. Any surfboard shop can show you how to do glass work.

Cang

Hullo, great page,I'm in New Zealand, have 2 1989 GPx 750's and restoring one to original and the other to a track bike, trawled thru all the Q & A's and got lots of useful tips to refer to except for the one I'm really looking for: Any advice on repairing cracked/ broken fairings? Between the 2 I have a break in the same place

Craig, Hope the fork seals went in okay. Any tips?

I am also looking for a stock exhaust setup. I have the V/H 4-1, and it sounds good, but I prefer stock. The pipes are the only thing on my bike that are not stock.

Craig

thnx for the info pbx! Do you know of any disscusion groups or web sites for this bike?

ducktat - the ZX750H is a different bike. It's also known as the ZX-7. Our ZX750F info won't be of much use to you. But there are lots of ZX-7 enthusiasts out there (the bike was used in racing for a long time). Enjoy!

Does anyone have or know anyone that has an original exhaust setupf or the ZX750? Mine had/has an aftermarket Yoshimura 4 into 1 exhaust that I'd be willing to trade.

I like the looks of the original 4 into 2 and want to bring my bike back to stock, and that is the biggest difference.

Please contact me if you have or know where I can get an original setup for it. I assume that the 87-90 all will fit.

Rick
pc_2000(at)yahoo(dot)com
(Sorry for the broken email, don't want autobots to start spamming me.)

hey i have a question, i just bought a 89 kaw. ninja 750, on the mfg. tag it says its a (ZX750H) and all the info i can find on these ninjas is for the ZX750F, so what does the "H" stand for?

Cang,

Cool to hear from another ZX Owner. I am actually doing my fork seals as I type this. I'll let you know how it goes. :)

Craig, I'm glad somebody is out there! Sounds like a great experience. Black with grey looks sweet. I just bought my red 1988 Ninja 750 this past March. These bikes seem to be pretty rare in complete good running condition. I just did tires, brake system, wheel bearings, calipers, carb service, chain service, and mostly went though mine to make it safe and reliable. Then my clutch slave went bad, no biggie...Bike Bandit seems to have it all. Need to replace my fork seals this winter. The short story is that this bike rides out super nice with lots of power and very nice road manners. Boy, does she like to rev! I have a spare set of rear wheel bearing if you need.

Cang

Edited by author 08-15-2009 05:11 PM
Gentlemen, I feel like I am home on this site.

Back in 1987, as a soldier in Germany, I bought a new 1987 Ninja 750. Rode that bike all over Europe. Put 10,000 miles on it the first summer I had it. Sold it wen I got stateside (needed money). I have missed that bike terribly since then. Looked for a while to find another, and never had any luck. A few months ago I found another 87, same color and everything. owner said he would take 1500.00 American. I saddled up and drove 450 miles to pick her up. She had just under 16000 miles. I freaked out when I saw it. It was perfect (or very near perfect). I had the tires replaced, and the guy that did it said they were the originals. They sure looked to be anyway.

Well, it needed the carbs cleaned, and now it runs awesome. I am getting some front tire wobble, but that could be the leaking left fork. New seals on the way.

IMO, this is THE best looking bike ever made (black and grey). I have an 07 Harley, and I am debating whether or not to ride it anymore (j/k). I am so glad I have this bike. It truly is like old times for my wife and I. I won't let her on the back until I get this wobble fixed. She has her own bike, so no big deal. Once it is fixed, we will be on our way. It also has a V/H exhaust. I want the stock exhaust if I can find one. Anyone have one for sale (or maybe trade for this V/H). The V/H sounds great, but I prefer stock.

Glad to see you guys here.

Craig

Anybody having trouble bleeding front calipers on their ZX750? I've rebuilt the calipers, master and installed a new 3 piece Galfer SS brake line set. Filled with DOT4. Used the old fashioned pump the lever and bleed and used a MityMite power bleeder. Looks like 99% of the air is out but lever needs to be pumped up a few times to bring it to where it should be. Feels kinda mushy. Any clues?? If I let it sit long enough will the air purge at the master?

Thanks
Cang

Thanks for the info Paul. Love the info you have on your site. It's been very helpful!

Rick,

87 octane is fine. I put 30K miles on mine burning nothing else.

I just bought a 1987 ZX750R F1 and it did not come with an owner's manual. There are no labels for the type gas to run in it. What octane fuel should I run in this bike? Even the Haynes manual I have doesn't say.
Many Thanks
Rick
pc_2000@yahoo.com

I've got an Official Kawasaki Service Manual for the Ninja zx750R F-series, 1987 to 1990 that I'm selling. I'd like $30 plus shipping.
I've also got a Haynes manual that covers the bike that I'd like $10 for. It covers ZX600 & 750 Liquid-cooled Fours, 1985 to 1994. Reply to: locostneo@gmail.com

How about just the rear left side mount? PN #23051-1187

Many Thanks..!!

Edited by author 05-06-2009 11:09 AM
Thanks....Found fender on ebay. Does anyone have a spare set of rear turn signals?

Cang

Thanks Guys! I found out that the DOT number on my front gives it a 1996 manufacture date! Time to replace it. I just ordered the Pirellis in the spec'd sizes. Does anybody in the states have the "Kawasaki" in sliver with a red background (pn 56014-119)and the gray/white stripe (pn 56047-1722) for this 1988 ZX7? Also looking for the rear part of the back fender. BikeBandit not much help...

Thanks..

Cang : + check clearence in rear fender.

Cang: The "R" in that tire spec means it's a radial. The ZX750F is designed to take bias-ply tires. So I wouldn't put that specific tire on it.

As for the wider size, it's possible that a 160 would fit -- check how much clearance to the chain & swingarm you have with the 140.

Conservative biker wisdom is that changing tire sizes changes the bike's carefully designed steering geometry, which can be bad. I'll leave that call to you, though.

Finding tires for this bike can be hard. The best I've found that are still made were the Pirelli Sport Demon line.

Edited by author 05-01-2009 01:02 PM
Can anyone tell me if I can use a 160/60 ZR18 tire on the rear of my 1988 ZX750 R in place of the 140/70 V18? Bike currently has 120/80 VB16 in place of the 110/90 V16 on the front. My email is tcang@yesstandard.com

Thanks Cang

Hi all,

Just wanted to pass the word that I'm selling my 1987 here in Massachusetts, USA.

  http://westernmass.craigslist.org/mcy/845464733.html

JP, I gave my 1990 F4 to Frankenbike. He may have parts from it he could spare you. I don't know.

Mdavis, the shut-off valve is vacuum operated, (only opening while engine is running) after detaching the fuel line, there is a button at the valve to push in to manually let fuel flow.

Who ever owns the zx750f ninja in the ad www.quicktopic.com/22/H/99BavxKCCnk/p-1.-1 - 281k please call me ASAP
970.372.2274 I need the starter like yesterday.Thanks

Any advice on how to keep the carbs clean when not riding for a week or more. I can't find a shutoff on the tank so that I could burn the gas out of the carbs.

Thanks

تامر حسني-برامج-1-a1-19-b2-78-71-18-21-59-60-58-61-22-42-9-a9-b9-b3-bb-77-65-53-73-56-49-5-84-ss-دردشة<span lang="ar-sa">-شات-دردشه-دردشات-دردشه
كتابيه-دردشة كتابية-شات
كتابي-دردشه صوتيه-دردشة
صوتية-صوتيه-صوتي-شات
صوتي-57-63-62-67-6-b6-b7-ab-6-29-75-4-8-82-83-15-16-17-11-12-55-13-72-80-79-25-64-24-51-26-tt-برامج
جوال-مقاطع بلوتوث-مسجات-نغمات-ثيمات-العاب
جوال-تصاميم-هكر-صور-صور
انمي-صور فنانين-ماسنجر-افلام-افلام
اجنبيه-منتدى للتعارف-منتديات
ادبية-منتدى للبنات فقط-العاب-العاب
بنات-سكساناشيد-صور
سيارات-رياضة-تحميل
اهداف-محمد-سياحة
وسفر-منتديات عامة-منتديات
اسلامية-منتديات سياسيه-تعليم
لغات اجنبيه-تعليم اللغه الانجليزيةنكت-خواطر-شعر-قصص-اساطير-روايات-حكم
وامثال-ازياء-منتدى
العروس-طبخ-طب-علم
النفس-برق-موقع
اغاني-مركز تحميلمنتديات-شات-دردشة-دليل
مواقع-مسجات--ثيمات-صور بنات-صور
حب-1-2-3-4-5
6-7-8-9-10-دردشة
بنت الدلع-دردشة بنات-شات
بنات-شات الحب-دردشة
الحب-منتديات بنات-شات
الغلا-صور رومانسيه-صور
رومنسيه-صور فناين-صور
سيارات-افلام-خواطر-ازياء-صور
حلوه-روايات-كويت
25-هيفاء وهبي-بنات
السعودية-موقع عمرو خالد-ناصر
الفراعنة-نانسي عجرم-ياسر
القحطاني-شات-نغمات
نوكيا-قصص وروايات

to FrankenBike :
 valve clearance zx750f1-f4
 intake : 0.8-0.13 mm
 exhaust : 0.12-0.18 mm

To pbx :
Paul commented, on December 12, 2006:
I also just discovered the Pirelli "Sport Demon" sport-touring tires, which look like some of the most modern rubber available in these vintage dimensions. I ordered a rear to replace my worn-out BT45, so I'll report after riding... which may be a few months!

What you can tell about this tires?

Hey, I'm looking for a gas tank for my 1990 zx750-f4. I know that a tank from 1988-1990 will fit it as long as it is the model without the air intake holes. Does anyone happen to have one they are willing to part with??? drop me an email at hdavidoff@optonline.net

Thanks!

Can anyone post the valve lash (clearance) specs for a zx750-f2?

/m279

Kyzix. I have just left you mail. I'll call you shortly. Thanks.

Frankenbike-
Are you interested? I was supposed to have this bike gone by this weekend.
kyzix@yahoo.com or 941-342-6014. I can send pics so that you don't waste your time.

1990 750F
you can email me kyzix@yahoo.com or call 941-342-6014



      ________________________________________________________________ ___________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/ca...p?category=shopping

Frankenbike-yes. 1990 750F e-mail me kyzix@yahoo.com direct and I will give you phone # or I will send email back. let me know how to interest you in this as I was getting ready to load it in my daughters truck and get $50 from the junk yard :)

Edited by author 01-21-2008 10:14 PM
ric,
I'm on the east coast of Florida. Are you trying to get rid of a zx750f? I have a project bike I'm working on. /274

Allow me to apologize to Mastiff. His price was every bit worth it for the bike. I meant no disrespect. Being so far away from me, getting the bike down here to me would make it not worth it, to me. Sorry.

If you didn't like the price you could have given me a counter offer. I didn't hear anything from you after I sent you the pictures.

Free to someone who can use it. She has sat for 2 long. electrical system is fried, but many great part left on this bike. Ran BEautiful right before she got sideways. stage 3 jetkit, headers 4-1, and Yoshi pipe are about the only things not stock. Still have original pipes. I'm in FL. I was hoping to get Mastiff's bike for parts but it's just not worth it for his price.

to FrankenBike
thank you
http://www.gpx750r.narod.ru/carb_en.htm

I used Google translator and some common sense. You can post it anywhere you'd like.

to FrankenBike.
fine! speak russian 8-o? or google translator? :)
Can i use this translation on the website?

To Artem (267)

Thank you for the measurement and the images.

I have re-written below the instructions found at the website:

Thanks again..
============================================================ =

Establishing fuel level for the GPX750R carburetor.
 
There are two ways of measuring: "dry" and "wet"


Dry - (removing carburetors)

Remove the carburetor, and the carb bottom (fuel bowl). Turn the carburetor upside down. The float height is masured from the top of the float (carb upside-down) to the carb body when the needle valve just begins to close. This is the float height, it must be 17mm.

Float height must be 17 mm.


 


Wet - (Without removing the carburetors)

Wet measurement allows for testing of the actual fuel level without disassembly of the carburetor. After testing, any required adjustments will need to be made by removing the carb bottom (fuel bowl).
  
First, you have to take a transparent tube and attach it to the drain hole at the bottom of carburetor (fuel bowl). Second, raise the top end of the tube above the carb bottom (fuel bowl). Next, discharge the gasoline from the carb bottom (fuel bowl) into the tube. The gasoline obtained in the tube shows the fuel level of carburetor.

The fuel (gasoline) level should be higher than the point at which the carburetor bottom (fuel bowl) attaches to the carb top (main carburetor body) level by to 0.5 + / -1 mm.



 

If improperly adjusted, the float can provide too much fuel (overflowing) or too little (starving the carb).

To FrankenBike
gas level : 0.5 mm +-1mm above top of floating camera
float height : 17 mm
look on images http://www.gpx750r.narod.ru/carb.htm

I have an 88 zx750 F2, it spews gas out the #1 carb. I'm not sure if the needle valve is worn or the tang is incorrectly adjusted. What is the proper measurement for float level on this bike? Any suggestion on the best way to make the measurement. Thanks...

Hi all, I'm new to this forum and so have some catching up to do. I'm restoring my '87 F1 which is in pretty good condition except for the tank, which I have ordered. Since I haven't ridden it in about three years I decided to break it down and do a rebuild. It is completely stock, so I am thinking about upgrading things like hydraulic lines, rear shock, exhaust, chain, sprockets, etc.

Is there a list that anyone has put together with the most common mods that people have made. Hopefully with links to parts such as rear shocks (I cannot seem to find an aftermarket shock), and suggestions concerning other mods such as whether or not to toss the stock airbox and replace with individual filters and if so, is stage 3 jetting needed.

It's funny, but for some reason it seems that this particular model of bike is particularly hard to find parts for. For instance, Corbin used to make a gunfighter seat for the bike, however, even though they still make seats for other bikes as old or older, they do not sell the seat for the the 750F. Did they lose the mold? I also found this for other parts. Has anyone else had similar issues?

I don't have to tell you what a great bike this is. So any help with the rebuild is much appreciated.

>>pic for you of the green machine
thanks
cool :)

oh sorry lol

the previous owner had drilled out the pilot screws on the good set of carbs so we had no chance of getting the fuel mixture right. Mechanic put them where they are supposed to be and now it's getting the right amount of fuel. This coupled with a carby synch and balanced floats etc.

Took the bike for a run the other week and it runs like a dream..
pic for you of the green machine

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k188/cop...0Stuff/DSC04956.jpg

what do you mean 'the pilot screws had been drilled out'
you has drilled pilot screws?
or turn out pilot screws?
or you has drilled plug on fuel mixture screw?

sorry what do you mean ' and what you have made' ?

to Bee
>>the pilot screws had been drilled out
8( )
and what you have made?

Thanks again Artem, sent it to a mechanic to find out a few things, one of which the pilot screws had been drilled out :P
It's now got new tyres and sounds sweet!!

what is the procedure to replace fork seals and how much fork oil for a 1997 vlx honda shadow 600

Hey all,

I've been riding (and loving) my '89 Ninja 750R, and was wondering if any of you guys have run across a fender eliminator kit for this bike. I think it would look awesome, but haven't been able to find one and am a bit leary to try a DIY method.

Thanks!

Bee,
may be new carbs is not synchronized?
or fuel level in new carbs is low?
+in this model a hole in airfilter cap-assy (14075) is less than in other model. Try to let down the bars from cap-assy.
See on spark plug, if it's white -check fuel level, if black - check airfilter cap-assy

Thanks Artem, yes it's a grey import, imported only a year or so ago. Mine has speedo of 180 too.
We'll just be putting the 102 needles etc in, I just wondered if anyone knows why it runs crap with the 112 needles on it? If I never find out why I don't mind, I just want to ride !

Bee,
I have a japanese model. Original it have 102 main-jet and N31L jet-needle. (and 77 horse power) (speedometer 180 km/h)
Other model have other jets and needles (main jets from 110 to 122 (racing use) see parts manual) and neddles N53I(?) (and ~100 horse power)
May be you have japanese model?
Compare needles and compare length of spring in vacuum-valve (92081B in parts manual) in new and old carbs.

Artem, yes it has stock filter. I don't want to replace anything, I just want a set of carbies that work correctly.
The carbies that were in the bike when I bought it are the proper set up with the main jet size being 112 as stated in manual.
When we checked the spare carbies which came with the bike (these were the original on bike but old owner broke them and replaced) they have 600cc sized main jet 102.
So my question is should I just forget it and put the 102 jets on the new carbies and just ride the bike? or should I leave the 750 sized ones on and work out why the darn thing won't run properly?

oh and jet needles are same as manuel says.

to Bee:
if bike runs like a dream with old carbs, why do you want to replace it(ol carbs)?
What kind of main jets and jet needles in new carbs?
Do you have a stock airfilter?

Ric,

Let me know if you want me to post this in the Ads section of the cycl.info site.
pb



On Sun, Apr 29, 2007 at 09:40:43AM -0700, QT - ric wrote:

--
Paul Bissex <pb@e-scribe.com>
Northampton MA 01061-0847
< replied-to message removed by QT >

Ric, I've sent you an e-mail.

MASTIFF, and all. I have had four wheels under me since I was run off the road about 3 years ago. Tore me and my bike up pretty bad. All the plastic is unusable, and the tow truck hauled the bike on its side. This led to the battery spilling out on the junction box shorting out and burning a hole clean through the circuit board. I'm at the end with holding onto such an eye sore, and my eyes lit up when I saw Chris (post 241) was selling his F model. I was too late, and I thought it my last chance to get the bike running again. Mine is going to the junkyard unless anyone has a parts bike to sell, or needs this one.http://www.agiantinc.com/ninja.htm

Hi all, I've got an 86 GPX750 which is almost ready to ride, however we've come across something rather puzzling...
When I bought the bike it came with new carbs, I got the old ones as spares. When setting up the carbs we discovered that the original carbs have needles and jets sized for the GPX600. The new carbs are the correct ones for the 750.
Now the problem is that with the 750 sized jets the bike runs like crap. We put the old carbs back in and it runs like a dream.
Can anyone tell me why this would be?
We are thinking about putting the 600 sized jets into the new carbs so that the bike can be ridden.

Thanks
Bianca
Australia

Yes, I am interested. Please message me kyzix@yahoo.com with information and $.

Edited by author 04-15-2007 01:51 AM
I thinking about selling my parts bike. Let me know if you are interested. I also have a spare engine for the bike. It is a 1987 F1

I missed out on the last parts bike for sale. I am looking for one. Please contact me kyzix@yahoo.com if you are looking to sell your 87-90 F model.

partial
here
http://motor.cycl.info/kawasaki/zx750f/
or here
http://gpx750r.narod.ru/GPX750R_ServiceManual.html

looking for free service manual in english for 1988 gpx750 r any help please

Chris,

If you email me the info (+ any pics) I can post an ad for you here:
  http://cycl.info/ads/

pb




On Sun, Feb 18, 2007 at 09:27:52AM -0800, QT - Chris wrote:

--
Paul Bissex <pb@e-scribe.com>
Northampton MA 01061-0847
< replied-to message removed by QT >

Edited by author 02-18-2007 12:38 PM
Any body looking for a parts bike 1989 zx 750r F3 13000 miles only running on three. Tires replace last year. Bike shines great. Great gas tank clean, great plastics all the way around. Had some one install a jet kit and the number 4 was running to lean and burned one of the exhuast vavles, did a compression tast zero. Took head off found a hole in the vavle. Replaced but still not running right. only 90 psi compression. All others are running 190 psi. I dont have time and need the space, i figure all the plastic and tank are worth at least 500.00 bucks So 500.00 bucks takes the hole bike it. I live in delaware. My email is Chrislehman2006@comcast.net

I am currently in the process of rebuilding the bottom end of my 87 zx750r after the starter idle gear sheared off a couple of teeth. I have read that many of you have had cam problems with these bikes and was wondering if I should take off the valve cover to see how mine was holding up. Have any of you had any luck finding aftermarket cams for these bikes? If so I would be interested in where I could get a decent set of cams. I was also thinking of putting a big bore kit on the bike but I am having a hard time finding one for my bike.

to Terry S.
Check fuel level in carbs, and idling rpm (or/and synchronization)

Hey guys I just bought a 1987 Gpx 750 R as a winter project.The bike sat for a long time with fuel in the Carbs.I cleaned the carbs out and the bike runs great when its cold on the choke.But when it warms up and its running without choke it stumbles and dies. If you rev it to keep it running it will rev to 4000 rpm and stay there until you unplug a vacum line or restart it.I have taken the carbs apart many times looking for problems,but all looks okay. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Unfortunately, no. It's possible the hardware's in there, but there's not a hole in the leather for it.

pb

Does it have a spot to connect a backrest if I ordered a new one from Corbin?

I'm selling my Corbin "Gunfighter & Lady" model, in very good shape, though it doesn't have a backrest. Email me or contact me via the cycl.info site if you're interested.

pb


On Wed, Dec 06, 2006 at 12:20:42PM -0800, QT - Dylan wrote:

--
Paul Bissex <pb@e-scribe.com>
Northampton MA 01061-0847
< replied-to message removed by QT >

I'm looking for a new seat for my ZX750 F2 1988. Does any body know where I good find a new 2-up seat, possibly with a back rest?

Hi All

Great to find a site dedicated to a great machine.

Haven't ridden a bike for 10years the last 1 being a Kawasaki ZX400, now the proud owner of a 1988 ZX750R - F1.

Purchased for 600 pounds with no mot and 35k on the clock. Cleaned her up and put her in for a mot, fearing the worst, and she sailed through.

Now on the road and just getting used to her, but the power and acceleration is truly amazing and scares the pants off me, it will be sometime before I see what she can really do, as need to hone my riding skills accordingly.

And its great to know that there is help available should the need arise.

Bas

Looks like I need an alternator. Anybody have an extra one ? :)

to pbx
I have no problem with Chapter 1 part 1.
Size must be 4487930 B.
I have reUploaded this part to server.

I will check problem with Chapter 1 after weekend

OK, these have all been converted to PDF and posted now:

  http://cycl.info/bikes/kawasaki/zx750f/

I had a problem with Chapter 1 part 1 though? Archive seemed to be corrupted.
Thanks again!

pb



On Thu, Nov 02, 2006 at 05:52:26AM -0800, QT - Artem wrote:

--
Paul Bissex <pb@e-scribe.com>
Northampton MA 01061-0847
< replied-to message removed by QT >

of course!
My English too :)
There it is written :
"That is all that i could find in Internet. Then the Englishman was lost. If who will prompt where to find the rest, I shall be very glad. Or somebody can will find this man and can will receive the rest from him: Zappally from UK (Ally Tennick, link to his site http://thegpxrfiles.bravehost.com/ :)"

Excellent! My Russian's a little rusty though. Can I post copies of those on cycl.info?



On Wed, Nov 01, 2006 at 06:41:03AM -0800, QT - Artem wrote:

--
Paul Bissex <pb@e-scribe.com>
Northampton MA 01061-0847
< replied-to message removed by QT >

Here is other chapters Service Manual(1,10,11,12)
http://gpx750r.narod.ru/GPX750R_ServiceManual.html
(13-th chapter - on the pbx's site)

Hi gang,

I'm preparing to replace this old Quicktopic setup with a new purpose-built forum (integrated with my ZX750F page) and am looking for volunteers for the first round of accounts. If you're interested just drop me an email (use the "email Paul" link on the cycl.info home page). I expect to roll this out within the next two or three weeks.

Thanks!

I gather you figured this out, but almost nothing about the ZX-7 (ZX750R) is like the ZX750F. I imagine this includes the carbs, though I don't know that for sure.

Edited by author 09-28-2006 11:36 PM
I decided to order the carb repair kit from the local bike parts shop and they ordered the K&L carb repair kit for $20.


I google searched the K&L carb repair kit and following online shops had the repair kits:
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/
http://www.jcwhitney.com

David -- no advice on the carb rebuild at the moment but I've fixed those links. I completely redesigned the site also, but that's another story!

http://cycl.info/bikes/kawasaki/zx750f/

I have been looking for a carburetor rebuild kit for 89 ZX750F and I have trouble locating the right kit. Few people recommended bikebandit.com but they didn't have the kit for ZX750F but ZX750R.

Has anyone purchased carb rebuild kit from somewheher?
Is early ZX750R (89-91) carburetor the same as ZX750F (87-91) then I can just use ZX750R kit?

I have seen the kit on the web few weeks ago but I didn't mark down the site address.

Thanks.

David, sorry about the bad links -- looks like I never updated them after the domain switch. I'll post here when I've fixed them.

pbx,

Thanks for the advice and information. I have owned about 5 bikes in the past but I left mechanical work to professional mechanics. However with this 89 ZX750F, I really want to learn how to take care of her better.

She has not started yet due to rusty gas tank and dirty carburetor.
I am still contemplating between Kreem kit vs. old school method and my concerns are Kreem liner peeling off vs. Rust coming back. I have both Kreem and Muriatic Acid but I haven't made up mind yet.

I am also looking for online store handles ZX750F related parts. At this moment, carburetor rebuild kit and spark plugs, gaskets, etc. If anyone knows good online stores, please let me know.

Regarding the PDF manuals, I couldn't open or get to the actual PDF file. It keeps forwarding me to the vintagebike.net. If there is proper way to open or save the PDF file, comments will be appreciated.

David
zen.speed@gmail.com

Hi David,

Welcome to the (very small) club. It really is a great bike -- even as mine ages I am hard pressed to think of what replacement would be better, not just newer.

As for the gas tank, my only advice given my recent experience is that you think twice before doing one of those Kreem tank liner jobbies. The one on my bike did last for about four years, and I think it was done very carefully by the PO, but eventually it started peeling off and one morning I "ran out of gas" when the liner collapsed over the fuel exit. I replaced the tank with a clean junkyard tank (a few dents, character) and am a happy camper again.

All I have for manuals are posted on the page. (http://cycl.info/bikes/kawasaki/zx750f/)

Hello,

I am new member to the forum and I am glad to find this group.
I am working recently acquired 89 ZX750F with 13,000 miles and I am very excited to revive this wonderful bike. However, no pain no gain and I will need your wise advice throughout the project.

The ninja was ridden by a young man for 6 years (however sitting in the backyard for the past 1 and half years). The bike won't start.

First the gas tank wouln't open due to sitting outside so I removed the tank and took it to a locksmith to open. He charged $10.
I am working on removing rust from the gas tank and let you know the progress.

If someone has a decent service manual or parts manual, please send me a copy. I purchased a Haynes manual but I need more details.

Thanks much.

David
zen.speed@gmail.com

I replaced my gas tank today. That means I have the old, battered tank to give away to someone who needs it. When I say battered, I mean battered -- a friend dropped the bike against a steel post and crushed in the top of the tank, though it holds gas fine (I've been using it for three years like that!). I can't imagine that anyone would want this thing, but wanted to post just in case.

Not sure where to post this as I am not a regular visitor but I wanted to pass on a deal to some one in the market. I have a brand new Vance and Hines Super Sport exhaust 4 in to one style, I bought it about 6 years ago from a seller on ebay, I read the auction wrong I thought it was for my Ninja 600R, it does not fit. Well this thing has been on the shelf every since, It truly is new has some light marks on it from moving it around over the years, if anyone is looking for an exhaust drop me a line and we can settle on a good price.

Jim
noslomofo@hotmail.com

hello, i have a tech question
my clutch just recently stopped working.. im trying to figure out if its the clutch or possibly something else.
when i put it in gear,it would pull a Little bit,but now the clutch wont even engage.. CLUTCH? also,what do you reccomend for a replacement

pbx i have lp's on mine if you want to see what they look like i'll send you pics of my bike

Hi all,

I'm still looking for those euro-style flushmounts if anybody has any leads. I have some LP ones sitting around, but would rather have the real (Kawasaki) deal.

Thanks!

Check again fuel issue (level in carburator).
Spark plugs are wet?
Spark plugs not black?

if problem in damage of magnetic point - dont work 2 cilinder.

I put my foot in a hole on a gravel driveway and my bike fell away from me while stationary. It fell on its right side, crushing the cover for the pulse coil. The points were bent, which killed the bike as the rotor slammed into the right one (circled) and set the timing back about 1/8 turn.<br>
 
<img src="http://www.remingtontech.net/Picture012.jpg" alt="a picture of the area in question">Click here if the picture isn't displayed</br>


I bent back the brackets for the two points using a matchbook cover as a spacer for the rotor, and reset the position of the rotor to the mark and voila. It ran perfectly. for ten miles. until it ground to a stop at a stop light. Suspecting a fuel issue i checked out the vacuum valve on the tank to find it wasn't working properly. Hose clamped the valve open so i could get home. On the way back it ran perfectly again. I digress.<br>
<img src="http://www.remingtontech.net/Picture011.jpg" alt="a picture of the area in question">Click here if the picture isn't displayed<br>
This morning (12 hours after it ran fine)
The fucker won't even start. It turns over, but only one piston is firing. All 4 spark plugs are getting a good spark. Is this proof positive that the magnetic points are damaged? or is there a larger issue (besides my dumb ass dropping my bike at a standstill)?

Thanks for the help, but it winded up being the alternator itself being bad....replaced it...and bingo, thanks again though

Hi everybody,

Just wanted to let you know I've put the old page back up. Sorry it disappeared without warning. With a demanding new job I let a few of my "side project" domains go, and along them went the ZX750F page.

I've now made what should be a long-term home for it:

  http://motor.cycl.info/kawasaki/zx750f/

To Tom D:
See this link to correct tension
http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF8

original link
http://gpx750r.tripod.com/beltkoukan.html

I believe so, kinda hard to feel the tension cuz its such a small belt and kinda hidden, but i adjusted it to where i thought it should be and didn't want to overtighten it...Any more help would be appreciated...

to Tom D :
Tension of a belt correct?

Has anyone had any charging system problems, my alternator isn't putting out enough voltage/about 11.9 and 4k. BTW i just did some maintenence work and put a new belt on it so that is fine. Maybe its just the alternator?, or worst case a wiring problem?

You were right on target. It was a 30a fuse

On 3/27/06, QuickTopic daily digest
<qtopic+22-99BavxKCCnk@quicktopic.com> wrote:
>
< replied-to message removed by QT >

to Smallzi
See all fuses (ref# 26006 and 26006A in Parts Manual)

Hello,
I recently purchased an '88 ZX750F and was performing some maintenance on it (rejetting carbs, replacing battery). After installing the battery i hooked it up to a high amp battery charger just so i could get it to kick over and check my carb tweaking skillz. I wasn't paying attention, however, and i hooked up the negative lead to the positive post on the battery and vice versa. The instrument panel summarily went black (not a good sign). Suspecting that i fried the starter relay, i hot wired it by directly touching the lead to the starter motor to the positive post on the battery. It worked, but the damn thing still won't start. The exhaust smells like un-combusted gasoline. Any ideas?

Great site. I have an '87 ZX750F1 and love it. I'm also plagued with the top end problems (cams/rockers)-have had the cams reground and replaced rockers but the rockers can shift enough to break throught the chrome on the edges then eat through the case hardening on the cam. I am wondering if anyone found a functional method to relieve this (ie. direct oilers, adjustment to rocker/basket, head change or even engine swap~7/9 mentioned back in '03 but could not find follow up). I would hate to retire this bike to rare/occasional riding b/c of this. Thanks for whatever advice you can offer.

One more explanation - inlet resonator, the airbox should be the certain volume.

Needles lift, until the mix does become normal.
If the mix did not become normal - enlarge jets.

Hello,
Yes, I know the mixture will lean quite a bit, the airbox being of an extremely restrictive design, I was quite surprised really by its design, only logical explanation being induction noise control.
CDN= Canada.

So, what's the opinion on jets and needles?

Edited by author 02-07-2006 02:22 AM
IMHO
K&N will make air/fuel mix lean.
And other jets (and needles) will be necessary to you (or dinojet).
And then you need other exhaust :)

PS. what is "CDN model"?

PPS. Throw far away a hammer if you do not wish to become last owner your bike :)

Re airbox...
Thanks for the info, but too late I took a hammer to it.
What's the consensus on jettig for K&Ns, with stock exhaust???
G.

remove coil-ignitions
remove airfilter cap-assy
move the airbox back (10-20mm)
pull out carbs from rubber duct (from airbox and from engine)
grease top of rubber duct with any oil
move carbs up (to frame)
then move carbs sideways (if you have not greased duct top - it's a very hard).

"It's a huge pain" :)
but installation is a very-very-huge-huge pain :)))

It's a huge pain and takes a lot of wrestling. I paid my mechanic to do it!

pb




On Feb 5, 2006, at 3:57 PM, QT - mirage 1950 wrote:

>
< replied-to message removed by QT >

Hello all...
Is there a secret procedure when removing the carbs, or am I dumb?
There seems to be no room with the airbox in place, and no way to to remove the airbox...what's the secret???
G.

I know, sorry about that! I let some domain names lapse because I had so many. I do still have all the content (and the bike!), so I'm going to put it back up on one of my other domains. I'll post here when I do.

pb




On Jan 30, 2006, at 1:48 AM, QT - Artem wrote:

>
< replied-to message removed by QT >

Hey pbx!
Youre site dont work :(

Edited by author 01-27-2006 01:31 PM
Hello all,
I recently purchased a 1987 ZX750F1, CDN model built in Japan.
34k km, two previous owner, one who took great care, the other a dpo.
I read that there's a parts manual lurking somewhere, could someone email me a copy?
Kind regards
sauveterre@yahoo.com
Gilles

Hey Guys

just found this site, have spent the last year or so building a full custom bike, engine is zx750f rest is handbuilt around it using Ducati Swingarm & Suzuki usd forks. Am currently trying to source infor/ pics for wiring diagram, have it running but only on Two cylinders. I have 2 x ZX600a's and have set coils up same (1&4/2&3) but a it is only firing 3&4 i am wondering about coil setup and firing order...any help would be greatly appreciated

Alternator belt replacement is complete. Did it without removing the clutch slave cylinder (per the book) or using Kawasaki tool #57001-1234.

to Just_Me
The function of the fuel evaporative control system is to trap and store evaporative emissions from the gas tank and carburetor(http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/emission.htm)
This system was installed only on the Californian model
and (IMHO) should not influence power

By the way, have any of you rerouted some emission hoses out before to improve power? If so, please let me know.

I read some previous posts regarding water temp gage is going up high. Is your electric fan working? This may sound obvious but if your bike is moving and temp is going down and when it stops, temp goes up then fan is definitely the culprit. Check to see if the electric fan switch is connected snugly near the fan. Solder it to make sure connection is okay. I've been there before.

Yeah, I saw the tool. I plan on improvising when the time comes if I don't have a second set of hands around. Hopefully it won't be too painful. It takes a lot for me to lay down cash for Kawasaki Special Tool #ZZ3302-7 or whatever.

To PBx. If you have a friend to help you with replacing a belt then you won't need a special tool to hold up an alternator while placing a belt. But if you have to do it solo, then you have to pay about $50 for a tool. However, you'll be upset with this tool because it's just a steel rod welded on to a thick sheetmetal. You'll see it on a service manual of this bike. If it was indeed alternator, you can have a local alternator repair shop to rewind the coil for you. More likely, it's the belt since it wears pretty quick.

This is from a company that does ceramic coatings. I would suggest anytime we tear into the top end of these engines we get the cams ceramic coated. I really think it will extend the life of the cams. Since the camshaft is such a problem with these bikes, and its demise means the bike may get junked, why not get it done as insurance?

Valves and Valve Springs

The valve train sees many benefits from the use of Dry Film Lubricants. All of the parts are minimally lubricated by engine oil. Consequently, excessive wear is always of concern, especially at start up or after the engine has been sitting for an extended period. By using an Extreme Pressure Bonded Lubricant we can provide protection well beyond that expected from even the best motor oils. The primary components to be coated are the Cam, Lifters, Push Rods and Rocker Arms ( Valves will be dealt with separately ). Normal lubrication is provided by a film of oil that is either pumped to the contact point or is splashed onto the part. In either instance oil film breakdown is of concern. By permanently bonding a lubricating coating in place we enhance the ability of the oil to lubricate and provide additional lubrication even after the oil film fails. Typical motor oils will fail at pressures below 10,000 psi. Properly formulated bonded lubricants can withstand pressure in excess of 350,000 psi

The Dry Film Lubricant functions in two ways. First, it acts as an "oil retaining material" rather than an oil shedding material, as are some materials like Teflon. This means that it reduces the ability of a small amount of oil to flow rapidly over the coated surface. In doing this it actually reduces friction as the remaining oil slides between the mating surfaces very easily and allows the parts to move much more freely. This action also reduces the likelihood of the oil film being "pushed" off the surface. A secondary benefit to this action is that it allows the oil to absorb more heat, thus helping to cool the parts more efficiently. The enhanced sliding action can be demonstrated by the way a "Slip and Slide" functions. This slick piece of plastic does not allow a body to slide over it until a film of water is pre sent. A small amount of the water is retained by the plastic surface as well as by the skin and clothing of the "slidee". With water running over this slick surface, a body will very easily slide for an extended distance. If the surfaces shed water, the effect wouldn't be as dramatic. The layers of water moving at different speeds act like little "rollers" that allow free movement. The Dry Film Lubricant creates the same effect by retaining a small amount of slower moving oil on the coated surface, thus actually allowing easier movement of the parts.

The Second function takes over when the oil film would normally break down either due to pressure or the effect of high heat on the lubricant and allow metal to metal contact. The bonded coating does not "break down" nor cold flow at higher pressure nor is it significantly affected by high temperatures, thus maintaing a lubricous film between the mating surfaces inhibiting metal to metal contact. This film provides a second layer of protection that normally will lubricate at loads in excess of the "crush" or deformation point of the base metal. This is especially critical at start up when a well defined mating surface is desired and excessive wear due to lack of lubrication can do significant damage. Camshafts especially benefit from the application of a Bonded Lubricant at start up where a cam can be damaged if the lubricating film is not maintained during break in.

http://www.engineceramics.com/help.htm

Something I plan to do when I rebuild my spare engine is to have the cams ceramic coated. There are ceramic coatings that can extend the life of the cams by more than double.

Re my battery problems -- I wasn't about to buy an alternator on speculation, that's for sure. List price is something upward of $600 I think. I had some time to check the bike out in daylight, and it looks like the alternator belt. A $35 fix. Pulling the alternator looks like a bit of a pain though!

Now I have a real questions for all of you. I know this bike came with emission control system with it elaborate hoses going everywhere. i figure if I remove them I thought the performance of the engine would improve. Is there any truth in this? Has anybody done this before?

Also this bike uses a vacuum fuel valve. Is there any way you can replace it with regular petcock with reserve/on switch? Thanks

I do have original exhaust pipes for this bike. I took them out when I got old Yoshimura Zyclones. It's a 4 into 1 pipe that comes out LEFT instead of right. Which means when changing oil filters or chains, you go to do some extra work when removing the exhaust cans.

The stock pipes are very heavy. One half of stock pipe weighs more than entire Yoshimura exhaust pipes.

Before you buy a new alternator, check if the alternator belt is still intact. If before your battery died your bike had some screeching sound, that's alternator belt rubbing against a casing inside. So check if the belt is there. If you need to replace a belt, you might need a special tool to hold up an alternator while placing a belt.

Go to http://drumhillcycle.com/ they have what you need.

Conrad

Sounds great! Stock is where it's at.

My battery died on the way home from work tonight -- I might be looking for a new alternator shortly...

Like I said before I just purchassed a 1987 Ninja ZX750R,
and it looks and sounds good for an old bike.
I would like to take it to the next level, and that is to it's oringinal state.
I have found some good sites for parts and have all ready bought a few items. I dont need to many items but I am missing a Tool kit, would anyone know of a good place to look?

thanks
Conrad C

The brakes are ok, I just ment that the bike has lots of power compare to brakes. Yes i do find the brakes good for a 1987 model.
And the cams, I only have about 20,000ks on the bike.

i will take the rocker cover off this winter to see how the cams are holdin up.

Thanks

Conrad C

Hi Conrad --

Yes, there is a known issue with the cams. I had mine replaced last year after about 47K miles. See below for more. Replacement cams are really expensive. It's the one big flaw in this bike. Ride it while they last!

As for stopping, the stock brakes are quite good. If yours aren't, check your pads and rotors per the manual, and bleed the brakes if needed.

Hi guys

I am also a new owner to a 1987 ZX750R, I like the bike and it has more get up and go then stop.

Question: Is there a concern with Cams, I spoke to a local tech yesterday and he said that you need to take your time warming up the bike so you get the oil up there before heading out on the road. The cams are chrome plated and that is why you need to warn the bike properlly to avoid premature wear on the cams.

anyone pleae correct me if my information is wrong!

Conrad C

Edited by author 09-14-2005 01:10 PM
Looks like I need new cams again for my 1988 750R but, do I have to replace all the rockers as well? They're so expensive. Can I just replace the necessary rockers? Any good advice would be appreciated. tmirotta@sympatico.ca

Thanks, I'll fix that.

Tony -- I don't know about regrinds or refacing, but cam problems are one of the few "known issues" with this bike. It's not necessarily anything you did. I just had mine replaced, and I opted for some low-mileage junkyard cams since the Kawi parts totaled something like $1600 and aftermarket ones around $900. My mechanic noted that the replacement cams were showing unusual wear as well. I'm just going to ride until they go, then wave a sad goodbye to the old GPX.

Just turned 50,000 miles by the way!

2 pbx
on your site link "Zappally's GPX750 page" obsolete

Edited by author 09-14-2005 01:58 AM
2 Tony
Check up the oil way, which oil to a cams and rockers submits(There there are such tubules). It can be littered.

In Russian (Encoding Cyrillic(Windows))
دًîâهًü ىàٌëےيَ‏ ىàمèًٌٍàëü, êîٍîًàے ïîنàهٍ ىàٌëî ê êَëà÷êàى è ًîêهًàى. زàى هٌٍü ٍàêèه ًٍَلî÷êè , îيè ىîمٍَ لûٍü çàٌîًهيû. دîٌىîًٍè êàê ىàٌëî ïîٌٍَïàهٍ ê êَëà÷êàى. دî-ىîهىَ, يà êَëà÷êè ىàٌëî ïًûٌêàهٍ èç ًîêهًîâ. س ٍهلے ًàٌïًهنâàëû ïîëيîٌٍü‏ èçيàّèâà‏ٌٍے èëè îïًهنهëهييûه êَëà÷êè? إٌëè îنيà ٌٍîًîيà ًàٌïًهنâàëà, ٍî ٌىîًٍè ًٍَلêَ, êîٍîًàے âهنهٍ ê ‎ٍèى êَëà÷êàى.

Edited by author 09-13-2005 04:18 PM
It looks like I'm putting another set of cams in my 1988 750R. I can't believe they're worn out again. I've performed regular maintenance (valve adjustments) and use semi synthetic oil but sure enough, they've worn out again. I'm thinking of "regrinds". Anybody have any suggestions to wether regrind is the way to go or do I spend all that money on news cams and rockers as well? The bike only has 28,000 kms on it. tmirotta@sympatico.ca

Thanks Paul,
 I attacked the swingarm bearings this weekend. I broke several tools trying to break the 14 year old lock on that 22mm bolt. I soaked it in penetrating oil & will try again later. I did find a bad rear wheel bearing....
You should have seen me trying to get it out. I dropped the wheel off last night to have the bearings replaced. Cheaper than ruining a wheel. I should be back on the bike this weekend, they are calling for rain.

Oh, and I found camshafts. Picking the bike up from my mechanic this weekend if all goes well.

Personally, over the years my tolerance for messing with four inline carbs has dropped to near zero. If it's easy to get the balancer hoses in there, I'd say buy the tool and do it yourself. But if you have to do a lot of fussy disassembly, I'd say have the cheap guy do it, but ask him to give you before and after numbers to keep him honest. Let us know how it goes and how out of whack they turn out to have been.

Paul,
 Its been a while. I am still enjoying my 750. I am unwittingly becoming a bike mechanic too. I have a question, I want to get my carbs synchronized. The tool is around $60.00. Is it worth the trouble? Or should I just get a pro to do it? On shop quoted 150-200, the other said between 40-80??? I have put over 7000 miles on her since we last spoke.

I'm looking for camshafts. Gently used is fine. Found a pair for $125 but they ended up getting sold before my mechanic reached them. Anybody parting out a motor?

If anyone knows where I can find the full Manual for the ninja 750, please email me johhnn@rock.com .pdf or whatever

Does anybody have the entire manual under pdf? Email at hadess18@yahoo.com please!

hi all gpx lover's from wet and windy england.Thinking about throwing the air box away and fitting k&n's or equivalant because the carb/air box seals won't stay on.any help regarding jet sizes and filters would be great.

I was looking thru the links on your GPX750 page, and there were some that are not working. However, the link on the frame stiffening article by Tony Foal is in the process of being changed. It looks pretty good, so I thought you might want to update the link.
I have a non-running ZX750R-F1 (one of the first made) that I intend to work on over the winter. I downloaded the parts manual you have up, and also the Chapter 13 pdf (Any other chapters would be appreciated).
 This looks like its going to be a great bike if I can get it up and running. I just read all of the GPX reviews on the British site you have listed. It has gotten me all excited about getting the bike running.

Hi, pbx!
The week is over...

sorry bye accident i put my name as Artem
stupid me

Starting with 18.09.2004 until 27.09.2004 I will be out of office. I will not be able to answer your emails but I can be reached on my phone (0724343704) if something's really burning.

hey artem i fixed some problems but now i got a fuel leak from the carb and i have a loose electrical connection somewhere. i havent had time to check it out because i'm a student and i am kind of busy but when i fix it i'll tell u

All files received, thanks, and correction noted. I hope to post svelte new PDFs sometime this week, and will give notice here when it's done.

Edited by author 09-14-2004 06:04 AM
Thanks not to me. Thanks Zappally. This is his files.
I have sent the rest of manual : (chapters 10,11,12).
I have not other chapters :(((
Zappally's site dont work, and he dont answer on email.
If anybody live in UK, and will find Zappally : ask him for other chapters!

It appears that MS Word does some additional compression of the PNG images (the page scans) in the .doc file. So straight output to PDF made the files bigger. I want to post PDFs rather than MS Word files; so with the help of ImageMagick I'm reworking Chapter 1 and Chapter 13 into much smaller PDFs. Thanks again for the scanning!

"Service manual PDF, Chapter 13, Steering (5M)"
to pbx : why (5M)? chapter 13 - 1.86M
I have sent 1-st chapter(~8M)

OK, chapter 13 of the service manual is up!

  http://vintagebike.net/info/Kawasaki/ZX750...50_service_ch13.pdf

to pbx : I have sent manual on gmail

Hi, Have had a problem with ZX750 Alternator belt. Have appealed for help from other riders in the UK but have had no suggestions that I have not already dismissed.
If you have had problems with belts breaking and know the cure I'd appreciate it if you could look for my posting on

http://www.thekwaksownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.html

follow trouble shooting / GPx alternator belt- I cannot work out a direct link. Thanks in anticipation.

Yeah, it looks like my spam killer may have bounced it -- definitely send to the gmail address. And thanks!

Parts manual link fixed -- good catch!

Haven't seen the service manual yet... you can also try paul.bissex@gmail.com as an alternative address.

Hey, Aron!
You fix your problem?

works! thanks! waiting for the service manual too :))

http://vintagebike.net/info/Kawasaki/ZX750...50_parts_manual.pdf

to pbx : change this link to new site address

I tried the link on the left "Parts manual PDF (2.4M)
Thanks, Zappally!" which is not working

pbx site is not working... or maybe I don't have the correct address?

Edited by author 09-10-2004 08:03 AM
I send first chapter. To pbx : you get it ok?
to Chris_RO : pbx place it on his site, recieve from there. ok? if pbx dont place, then i mail it to you :)

I have enough space too. Send them, please. Thanks.

Go for it! I've got oodles of space.

Hey, pbx!
If you have enough space on your site , i can email 5 chapters of Service Manual (pdf ~20ىل).

Hi!
Just got a '89 GPX750R and I wonder if any of you guys have a pdf file with the service manual. Or maybe a link? Thanks, Chris

Hey Guys!
New question.
It looks like I have an oil leak coming from brhind the timing rotor. I have some time off from work next week and was thinking of seeing if I could fix it.
Does anyone know what kind of seal is behind the rotor ?
Just trying to get an idea what I'll find in there.
Thanks,
Rob

hey i cleaned out the gas tank no rust looks like new. The engine wont turn off by itself when its idealing any more. But i still have some problems starting it the distributer is turning and i have a little bit of combustion but the motor wont start and run

to Aron
Replace from tank sensor of fuel level to get an additional hole. Go on a car wash and rinse with "Karcher" (water high-pressure cleaner)

im gonna try that kreem i got the rust loose from inside my tank the only problem is that its still shaking around inside the tank and i cant get it out i tried rinsing it out a few times but i still have rust in there i also tried getting it out with a vacum cleaner but no luck.

I've e-mailed them; no reply yet. Thanks for the reminder though.

to pbx
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...tem&item=7902071460
They do not sell cams and rockers?

to aron
Still there is special means "Kreem", costs about 25 dollars. Has filled in a tank miracle English pitch, has chatted, she has covered all surface and polimerizated. Now a tank as though plastic from within. Have brought from England. Similarly on pitch, only more liquid.
(Advice from www.moto.ru)

Edited by author 08-03-2004 01:38 AM
To clear a tank of a rust :
Replace from tank sensor of fuel level. Close a hole.
Fill tank with
10 % solution of ortophosphoric(H3PO4) acids (full tank).
Stand in such position 0.5 hour - 0.5 day, depending on a degree of rusty.
After drain an acid out. Place into ~0.5 kg of baking soda and fill up waters. Then, drain soda out, rinse water and try to dry up maximum an interior of a tank (a cloth, a napkin, etc.). Look do not drop there anything.
Warning : Acid are danger!!!
(Advice from www.moto.ru)

its the clogged up tank thats the problem and i've tried zep rust remover and i tried putting in a chain and shaking it to loosen the rust. i was wondering if ne one had another way to do it

I may have a spare tank for sale soon if I don't find some cheap (used, low mileage) cams & rockers for my '87...

Say, does anybody have any cheap (used, low mileage) cams & rockers?

to Aron
Replace the tank (other tank, plastic bottle .. etc)
to check up that problem really in it.

ya i checked out the gas tank thats the problem i was wondering whats that best way to clean it out because theres so much rust.

Edited by author 07-30-2004 04:08 PM
Im not sure how hot the engine is on the temp gauge since its not working at the momement so i couldn't tell u how hot it was but it is not overheating but i dont think it should get as hot as it does after 30 seconds . I was very suprised that it got this hot and that is y i thought it mite be overheating but u are right i'm pretty sure that the tank is clogging since when i first opened there was alot of rust and black sot im going to clean it out.I have my doubts about the battery too, so i'm letting it charge today.

Edited by author 07-30-2004 02:49 AM
>> so hot so fast
how fast? how hot? That shows the gauge of temperature. It in a red zone?

Overheating can be caused by incorrect ignition, incorrect mixture or refusal of cooling system.
You have told, that cooling works.
Quality of a mix can be defined on color of spark plugs.
If color very light(white), a mixture incorrect.
Ignition can be checked up with the help of the special device ("Stroboscope" in russian, in inglish i dont know).
I had a similar problem. The engine was started, some minutes worked and self stoped. After that it started only after long time.
I too thought that it is overheating. But the problem was that the tank has been littered(clogging up) and fuel slowly acted in carbs.
 When the engine is not started(when start difficult), check up a fuel level in carbs.

im checking the spark plugs today and i asked my neightbour who i bought the bike off of and he says it has always run really hot and not to worry. I jus wasnt expecting the bike to get so hot so fast and was a little worried thats y i posted my message and yes the fan runs when it gets hot.

to pbx
You can also repair your cams and rockers

to aron.
Why you think, what the engine overheats?
When youre engine is overheats, the fan turns?
What color of spark plugs?

hi i've been lookin around on this site for awhile and i was wonderin if u guys could help me out a bit. my 87 750 ninja is overheating and i cant find out why. My fan is working and i cheacked the coolant level and this is really making starting the motor difficult. I just put a new set of carbs and im trying to tune the motor but i have trouble starting and have to wait 15 mins b4 i can start it again. I just bought the bike a week ago so i havent spent much time on it and if someone else has had the same problem then it might save me some time in figuring out whats wrong.

thanxs again

if u want to email me my email is jesus_jizzes_jewish_joints@hotmail.com
"sry if someone finds this offensive"

(Don't worry about the site, by the way -- it will live on regardless, at its new URL: http://vintagebike.net/info/Kawasaki/ZX750F/ )

Just got word from my mechanic that the cams & rockers on my bike may be toast. If this is true, and cheap replacements are not found, this may be the end of the road for my dear ZX750F.

That would be me. I try to have the same name on all the forums I'm on (ODFU, NESR, SRNE, and here). makes it easier for people to find me.

Hey thanks pbx !
I e-mailed the seller to see if the brake rotor was still available and if it's got any meat left on it.

Hey coffee!, you gotta be the same coffee from "odfu"
Yes ?
Rob

N75R, I don't know if they will have what you want but keep an eye on this site:

http://www.dmsportbike.com/Sportbike/Kawasaki/ZX/750/used.htm

I have never ordered from them so use regular caution if you deal with them.

N750R - for oil, quite a few people I've talked to go with 10W40 Motorcycle oil in the spring and fall. For summer they either use 15W50 (could not find) or 20W50. As far a coolant, I'm not sure...never changed it myself. Also no clue on a fairing. I'll keep an eye out for one.

Thank you, Paul!
I did it! :)
To curiosity :)
I'm from Russia. Here in Russia we not got this bike. My Ninja was born in 1986 in Japan. He is a japaneze model. He has 77 hp :(
In march 2003 he is imported from Japan in Russia, Vladivostok. Then (in august) i bought it through the internet. And then i repair it (and ride :))
I have photos (my Ninja in Vladivostok), and if you want i email it.

P.S. Excuse me for my English.

It's possible, it's just a bit fussy. You need to take the bolt all the way out, then slide the bottom filter cover (the one with radial fins) out and down, then pull down the filter.

You will get a little oil on the exhaust. Definitely remove the main drain plug first and let it drain well to minimize that.

(Out of curiosity, where are you? Here in the US we only got this bike from 1987 to 1990).

Hi all!
How to change the oil filter? In my 1986 gpx750r i can't replace it. The exhaust pipes interfere.
Need i to replace the exhaust system?

Edited by author 06-04-2004 12:13 AM
GOT ANY IDEA WHERE I MIGHT BE ABLE TO FIND THE FAIRINGS FOR MY 1987 ZX750R IVE SEARCHED AND SEARCHED AND CANT SEEM TO FIND THEM ANY WHERE YOUR HELP WILL BE GREATFULY APPRECIATED
ALSO WHAT WOULD BE THE CORRECT COOLANT TO USE AND WEIGHT OF OIL I HAVE NIT GOTTEN MY MANUAL YET AN WANT TO GO OVER MY NEWLY PURCHASED BIKE

If you're cool with a used part, I'd get in touch with this guy:

  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7902071460

The auction is over but it shows the bike, which has massive front end damage but seems pretty clean in the back. The guy's contact info is there too.

OK, here's another question for ya'.
I need a rear brake rotor for the 88 750 Ninja, OEM part number 41080-1177-CM.
The couple places I've seen them listed want $280--$300, does anyone have a line on anything cheaper ?
Thanks!
RR

I didn't think so.
THANKS!!!
RR

Nope. Good choice, by the way.

I'll be putting some new Metzler ME330/550 tires on my 88 750 Ninja. Do I need to run tubes with these tires ?
Thanks,
RR

Sold!

For anybody who is interested -- I just posted my GenMar risers on eBay. Gives 1.25" of lift for those of you who want to be more upright.

it turned out to be the alternator (ouch). My bike's charging now, I just gotta finish the valve clearance and it'll be good as new!

Hey Christian,
Check your altenator belt, it might have broken. Thats what happened to me when the battery was not charging. Belt is alot cheaper than a new altenator...

Just wondering where the best place to buy an air filter for my 87 750R might be.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/parts...62&Manufacturer=363

It shows this in stock though not sure if its just old data

I just stumbled across this discussion-you seem like a cool bunch of guys. I just bought a basket case 750r and have gotten almost everything working, except my alternator. The battery isn't charging, so the alt. must be bad. Also, it looks like it would be really easy to make a reverse-shift kit just using a long shifter arm on the shifter shaft. anyone done this?

I don't see the Muzzy exhaust available for an '88 750 Ninja. All the sites show it for '89 zx-7. Where can I order one for the '88?

Nice! I was out yesterday as well here in western Mass.

I have an 87 ZX750F. Was Just able to get the bike across the lawn to the driveway from the storage area (live in Northern Vermont, USA - 1-2 feet of snow still on the ground...but melting). Did some basic work on it and took it for the first ride of the season..gotta love these bikes.

Sweet i not been able to find anyone other then vance that was still making pipes for the zx750r. That is good info !

I found a place that still has some of the muzzy full exhaust systems in stock. I been thinking about picking one up to replace what i have. Its around 500 dollars here in the states.

Ive got an Australian made Formula1 4 into 1 on mine, they and Staintune are really good pipes, power wise seems good and has a nice exhaust note to it.
They are still in production.

To my knowledge the only exhaust system still being made for the bike is the Vance & Hines Supersport Exhaust. It's a 4 into 1 configuration pretty light and looks descent.

Its loud though or at least to me its loud. In order to change the oil filter on it u will have to remove the 2 springs and one bolt holding the pipe part on. Its about a 5 min operation at most.

Most likely hae to have the bike jetted. Mine was jetted after the exhaust was stuck on.

HOpe that helps and best of luck !

I have a KERKER unit on my 88. It is a little loud but not unreasonable. Filter and drain plug access are still good.

I have the old Yoshimura 4-1, can't recomend it.
Very loud, and it blocks access to the oil drain plug and filter.

I had a V&H 4-into-1 that the previous owner said upped the power by about 10%, but even on the track he said it was excessively loud. And the bike was making 85hp at the rear wheel with the stock exhaust, which is quite good for that engine.

What are your goals? How much power does it produce now?

Can anyone recomend a decent exhaust for the GPX750 that improves power.

Thanks for the tip !! Ill be doing the hagon rear shock for sure !! I put in a set of race tech front springs last weekend. Really firmed up my front end for me.

I've got a Hagon shock on the back of my GPX750. It's adjustable for the spring and also compression and rebound damping. It was already fitted when I got the bike. I definately recommend it. It realy improves the handling and the way the back end of the bike behaves.Firm without being too hard is the way I would describe the feel of the shock .
Anther really worth while and not too expensive mod to do is replace the front fork springs with Hagon's progresive wound fork springs. This realy improves the front end no end. the only thing I would say is while Hagon are right in the amount of fork oil to use in each fork, I used SAE 15 fork oil. This gives a realy firm but complient front end. Well worth the effort...Steve

Not me, NOt hard of that brand of exhaust system.

Doesv any one have experience of the Jama 'original' replacement exhaust system for the GPX750 and its effect on power, carb jetting etc. Also has any one any advice on improving the performence of the brakes.
Many thanks Steve

Hey guys any idea about a newer rear shock for our bikes ? Mine is so worn out its not even funny. After 15 years and 73k guess i be tired aslo !

I was thinking about a hagon for it. Anyone have any experience with this brand ?

http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/main1st.htm

If i had money to burn i pay for one of them single sided swing arm kits !! EHehe that is what i really want to do with my bike !!!

Just check the usual places. Vince and hines seems to make the most commonly used one. It has a nice sound but o man is it load !! !!

Vance & Hines Supersport Exhaust (part #13026, $315 at Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse)

I have through my searchs seen the muzzy full system for 500 or so us dollars. That is what i am thinking of upgrading mine to.

http://s88593363.onlinehome.us/ninja750/

Is another nice 750r site.

Wayne, when your rebuild chronicle is online, just send me the URL and I'll link to it. Good luck!

Hi! Great site. I have looked for weeks for such a site on the zx-750 and finally I have arrived!!! I just purchased a 1987 zx-750 for $900.00 USD (well, that's $1200 Canadian: I am from Canada). It runs great, has 29,000 miles (47,000 klms)and looks quite good. New rubber in the rear, new chain but needs new front. The mods that I am planning: 4 into 1 pipe, jetting (of course!) and new upper and lower plastic from possibly airtech.

Perhaps I can have a link posted to my site to track progrss of the rebuild that should take place in the next couple of weeks? Will be lots of graphics!!

Anyone know of where I can get a 4 into 1 exhaust for a good price?

 I actually traced the noise to a bad rocker on cylinder 4. cant really see anything wrong with it or the cam but with the rocker removed the noise is gone. thanks for your reply.

Mine does when its cold. BUt its pretty much gone once the engine warms up. I have nearly 73000 miles on it now.

Another question about this bike. Is valve noise normal for this engine?.

Tires.

I seen a few peeps seeking a good tire for this bike. Since it uses the 16inch and 18inch combination that seems to make it a pain to find a good setup!!

I had good sucess with the

Pirelli sport demon

My front is 100 -90 - 16
My rear is 140 -70 -18

Anyway just thought i pass that along.

 I don't think that with only 30000km on the engine that the cam chain should be worn out. The ZX-10 tensioner is supposed to bolt up but has a longer shaft. I think that the manual tensioner is a goo idea but chould be a pain to get at to adjust.

On the subject of oil leaks. I appear to be leaking out of my left engine case and shift shaft. Any experience out there on these locations. Winter in Iowa sucks. I rode around the block a couple of times Saturday @25 degrees F

Theres a dealer here in Sydney that used to race this bike I will try to contact him about the cam chain tensioner and post what he recommends.
PS I fixed my oi leak problem with a piece of steel braided hose and moved it to a position around the exhaust, when I get the oil off the rear tyre I'll see how good my repair was.
Ride safe.
Steve

Interesting question. I have a rattling cam chain as well. Since the tensioner is automatic and I am fairly sure it is at full extension (I pulled and replaced it once, according to the manual procedure, to make sure), I figured that either the chain is stretched or the internal guides are worn down. Either way it seems to me that the chain should be replaced.

But if somebody has "fixed" this problem with a manual tensioner or a ZX-10 tensioner, I'd love to hear about it!

There are also outfits that will custom-make manual tensioners if you send them an old tensioner (manual or automatic).

 I just bought an 88 Ninja 750R with 30000km on it. There is some noise from the cam chain and I have heard that the tensioner from a ZX-10 will cure the noise, Is this true? Also has anyone tried fitting a manual tensioner to thier bike?? Thanks for any input you have.

correction it was rhs one part number 51044 same page, doesnt appear to be listed in factory manual

Safety Message
Dudes, being in Australia things get hot. Had a leak develop from oil cooler pipe (lower left hand one) inlet to oil cooler. Those of you that have replaced original twin exhaust for a four into one you might want to check your oil hoses arent too \close to the exhaust as I found out a few days ago after sliding around a corner and then seeing a shiteload of smoke, jumped off bike after kickstand and shutdown and the bike was smoking, turns out from oil onto engine and exhaust headers.
Reason for this message so you dont nearly have an accident like I nearly did as rear wheel is covered in oil.
So Im off to Kwakka land to source a replacement lower left oil cooler tube. Those of you with a parts manual will see what Im talking about on page 89, part number 51044a. The break is between the two knobly bits..

Happy New Year.... Steve

Edited by author 12-31-2003 01:48 AM
Hi All!!!
Happy New Year!!!
Happy New Road!!!
Happy New Fortune!!! :)

Hello all

I had my 1989 750r for about a month now. It has 72k on it and is in excellent shape. I love the bark from the vance hines system. The only thing it needs is a new gas tank since the orginal one is starting to rust out(fla eats gas tanks)

This is the first street bike i have owned and i just love it ! Though finding info on it been tough. Seems we are the forgetten child !

From what i can tell ebay is your friend !! I have seen one full bike parted out and a bunch of parts for this model.

To Zappally
It is possible to hope that other chapters will appear on your site? :)

Yeah, have been having a few problems with space & the fact I've just had to rebuild my pc as the old one went BOOM!

Will try to get it sorted asap guys

Ally

Hello, Zappally! :)
I have tried to download the Workshop manual from your site. On old site - 5 chapters only. On new site - nothing.
I cried! :(

BTW - Correction below. Grandpa has a 15 tooth front sprocket and a 45 tooth rear. Sorry.

Grandpa has progressive springs in the front and a Works Performance Durasport shock in the back. Dropped four inches in the front and three in the rear.

Edited by author 11-16-2003 06:46 PM
To be honest I've done nothing to my GPX in the time I was riding it except for unplugging the damn anti dive unit. As I'm about to start stripping her for a complete rebuild I've been looking into the idea of getting some 17" rims in place so as to get a better choice of rubber. I've a few ideas of what I may end up fitting if I do go to the trouble of changing it all.

Also if anyone wants to send me some pics for my gallery send them to zappally@blueyonder.co.uk feel free to send as many pics of your bike as you like & some info on what you have done to it!

Slainte

Ally

I've got Race Tech cartridge emulators up front, and 4" preload spacers. This was done by the previous owner so I never rode the bike without them, but I'm pretty happy with the front end. The rear could definitely use a new shock and/or higher compression damping settings, but replacement units are expensive and there isn't much to choose from.

Im guessing most of you guys are either in the States or the UK, what kinda modifications have you guys done re suspension? Ive heard progressive springs are a good first remedy for the front and a Ohlins unit for the rear. Any thoughts on this?

wow that blue gpx looks great the rims ont he wheels really set it off.
Still have mine in pieces in various states of primer etc, just got new chain and sprockets etc and will be engine testing this weekend hopefully. Keeping mine original black body with red pin stripe and grey panels but I love those polished rims so I thinks they have just gotta be done!
Ive got photos but I have to resize them so throw em up on the web.
Steve
Sydney

Thats a great looking bike. I like the solid color scheme. I'm glad you did the engine work, you'll surpise some of the kids.

Lets see. The flush mounts are LPs and are sold just about everywhere. As for the motor - a longer set of Carillo Rods, new cams, titanium valves, 12:1, heads ported and polished, blueprinted, 45 tooth front, 34MM RS Flatside Mikunis. (Looking for a good set of 36MMs)

Have to say I love the bike. Nothing like pulling up next to the sparkling new bikes with 15year old grandpa sporting new paint, chrome and nearly 1000ccs.

Wow, that's one sweet looking GPX Rod, what engine work have you done to it. Again, it looks great! an inspiration to us all!

Slainte

Ally

Now that the riding season is closing out here in Iowa I am thinking mods for the ZX. I have a stock 1990 with the exception of dropping one tooth on the counter shaft sprocket. I am planning V&H pipe, individual air filters and a re jet. Any other suggestions for easy power gains? I have wondered if a later model cam would give a boost. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.

Nice work, man! It's great to see a solid-color GPX. And so clean! I'll add that link to the sidebar. Where did you get the flush-mounts?

Just a note to say thanx to everyone who helped me get my GPX back on the road. After spending six years in my friends garage i've replaced just about everything over the past seven months and it's running pretty good. The motor's been stroked to 972cc, V&H Exhaust, new cams, big radiator, Mikunis, stretched, lowered, Works Shock, etc. Pics are attached.

Got a few pieces still left including upgraded brakes and a Nitrous bottle .... ;)

Many Thanx to everyone!!

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rod.malon...g.photos.yahoo.com/

Paul you can go ahead and post my bike for sale, would like to get $1,800.00 for it but that is negotiable. some specs****** 87 Ninja 750R, just over 22K on bike, recent work done (as stated before) clean title 3rd owner guy before had it in Montana, have receipts of work done, runs fine needs carb care more than anything but has always started. stored in Fergus Falls, Minnesota now (West Central) needs a home with someone with more recources and knowledge than I have. Unfortunately I have never really learned how to fix up motorcycles and just enjoy riding them. I do have pictures of it if those could be posted too that would be great.

greenhead_shooter@yahoo.com

Thanks alot

Brent

Ok guys, me again, still no joy, will figure something out though.

New site address is http://thegpxrfiles.bravehost.com/

feel free to mail some good pics of your bikes so I can start to build a decent gallery of our muched loved bikes

Cheers

Ally

And Brent, if you want me to post your bike for sale in the Classifieds list, just say the word (and send me a contact e-mail address or phone number).

Cool -- I've posted the PDF and linked to your site as well. Thanks!

Edited by author 11-03-2003 11:10 PM
Alrighty peeps, still having a few probs with emails, so..............

I've started to build a site & have managed to hopefully start sorting the problems out!

http://www.vssc17312.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Main.htm

This should take you the the main page of the site, on the tech page you should hopefully be able to get the part manual in pdf format. Still working on the other manual but we're getting there

Keep me posted on wether you get the file ok & send me a few pics of yer bikes with some info!

Slainte

Ally

Anybody interested in buying an 87 with 22K on it?
good condition, recent work done on rear seals and bearings, new alt belt along with new regulator. Has some body needs but overall good bike. Thinking about putting it on EBAY!!

Heya Guys, just got my 88 GPX yesterday, 74K on it half a years rego, a few things to fix. Good to see others with same model. Looking at restoring it to the same one of 12 years ago I rebuilt with a friend. Hope to be able to share it with yas.
Steve
Australia
ZZR250
GPX750r

You may have had mail problems because of some anti-spam experiments I was performing on my mail server :) Try again, thanks!

Sorry for the delay guys, I've tried emailing the files a couple of times now but something doesn't sem to want to play!

Also life has been a bit hectic of late, fear not though I'll get it done somehow, even if it means posting it page by page on the net for you all!

Ally

Hello, I´d like to get this manual, if you don`t mind (jaffimees@one.ee).
My Kawa is still waiting for it, there`s something wrong with the carbs, in low RPM it`s not working correctly.

Thanks

 firstly i think your site is very informative.
 i have a question regarding my 87 gpx 750 is it
possible to get a 17 inch front wheel for it as mine has
a 16 inch , did the later models have a larger one.

Check the ebay link. I recently noticed somebody parting out a bike, including bodywork. Also, it's possible that Sharkskinz still makes race plastic for it. Would be a bit labor intensive, but cool!

i have a 1987 kawasaki ninja 750R and am looking to get replacment plastic for it if any one knows where to get it or look for it please let me know

Hello, I`m also rookie in Kawa stuff. I bought my first real motorcycle 4 days ago and it`s a Kawa GPX 750. I really want to get this manual to my e-mail (jaffimees@one.ee). Thanks

Greetings from Estonia to all GPX 750 owners!
Jarx

GPX 750 still not running (waiting for manual)

Edited by author 10-13-2003 09:44 AM
Cool guys, Will get that sorted for you all today. I'm just about to start rebuilding my GPX. The only thing that's wrong with her just now is that she leaks coolant from out of the water pump cover. I've tried sealing it but nothing seems to work so I reckon a new cover is needed. I also need a new fairing etc.... But as I have another bike to ride I thought I give her some tlc & rebuild her.

I would love to get my hands on a copy of that manual ;)

miboudre@flemingc.on.ca

Cool, Zappally -- email me a copy and I'll post it on the site (I'll probably make a PDF version too).

Alrighty folks,

Great site, I've only just found it & hope you guys still all use this. I saw a post for someone looking for a worshop manual in english. I've got the factory manual & parts fiche with part numbers on cd here in word format. I can email it to anyone that needs a copy!

Love the site. As i have been reading through I saw Lars's question about stopping after 2 or 3 minutes. I have had a problem like this on another bike. Try opening the gas cap. In my case the previous owner had plugged the vents while sealing the tank. I have a 1990

As far as I can tell, the 900 Ninja engines of the same year might fit. The Ninja websites talk about the 7/9 conversion a lot. Don't take this as definite, I haven't done enough research to verify it.

These engines are basically the same as the 89-91 ZX-7s. They even use the same cylinders and head. The ZX-7 has a hotter cam, though. I think your best bet would to be to look up on one of the ZX-7 Ninja sites and see if they have an engine transplant they reccommend. I'll check on a few sites tonight and see if I come up with anything.

Thanx pbx. Yeah, that's what i thought. And that also explains ,my question about the bigger engine. If a new (old) engine must go in, then why not a bigger one, but.....

And about the numbers; Oke, you win (-: I had it up to 240kmh, but everyone knows that the speedo lies.

I have tried to find a replacement, but could not find a good one yet. It's still a nice bike.

Norman -- sorry to hear about your trouble. I wonder if you can find a used engine? That's a lot of euros to be spending on an old bike.

Re the horsepower and speed numbers -- Kawasaki claimed 106hp at the crankshaft, which with drivetrain losses translates into 80-90hp at the rear wheel depending on tune. If you look at actual top speed tests, you'll see that the later (and 30+hp more powerful) ZX-7R has a top speed of about 160mph. Our old 750s just won't do that.

That's a shame. I had this engine repaired for 900 Euro's (or dollars, that'about the same), and it looks like it has to be done again 1 year later.

So i thought why not drop in another engine for that kind of money.

Norman, Holland

P.s. This bike has 106 Hp and does about 240 Km/h (160 mph?)

Norman -- anything's possible, but IMO it's not worth trying to put another engine in the bike. Unlike, say, the early Suzuki GSX-R 750 & 1100, no other powerplant was ever made to fit in the GPX750 frame.

Used ZX-9Rs are getting pretty cheap and are a much better package for high performance.

I'd also consider getting your engine dyno tested if you can find a place to do it for cheap -- if it's in good tune it should be putting down about 85hp peak at the rear wheel, which is good for an honest 140+mph in a straight line. And in the twisties or on the track, the engine is not at all the limiting factor in this bike's performance.

Just my two cents...

I've got myself a '87 gpx750r. Does anybody know if it is possible to "drop" another (stronger) engine in, without too much "redecoration" to the frame.

Just that it is supposed to be a great bike, Cycle World named it the best 750 in 87 and 88. It is better than the ZX7 that followed it in most riding situations. It is more comfortable for continuous riding. Incidentally, the first series ZX7's used the same engine, just with different cams for a peakier power output. It will get up to 150 mph, and is good for around town and touring, too.
Make sure you keep the alternator belt tight.

I'm just about to buy an '87 750R with 29K on the clock. I've owned a lot of Hondas and Yamahas but never a Kawa. Anything I whould be aware of?

Anyone have or know of a regulator for sale mine went kapooooooooot.
Thanks

I'd start by draining the tank and float bowls, replacing the fuel filter, then putting in new gas. Check for loose carb to intake manifold connections, loose or missing vacumn gauge access port cap or hose, or loose carb top.
If that doesn't get you going, let me know. You did check your choke and idle speed?

Hi Lars,

I think the only fix is to send me your turn signals! Just kidding.

No helpful ideas, I'm afraid. Make sure your choke is operating correctly, and make sure fuel delivery is sufficient.

Hi..
Does anybody knows why my Kawasaki GPX750R from 1990 starts perfect, and when the motor has run for 2 - 3 minuts it dies...just dies !! If i wait until it is cold it starts again but shuts down again after 2-3 minuts. Can anybody help me ??

Lars Hessner. Denmark

Also -- anybody have a source for the Euro/Japan market flushmount signals? (Not the Lockhart-Philips type aftermarket ones, but the real deal.) I'd like to replace my US-market ones, as they're kind of beat up, and the flushmounts look nice without being squidly-tiny.

Hey all -- I'm getting my bike painted in a couple weeks. I'm thinking CBR1100XX gray, but am open to other suggestions.

Hi. I bought the bike for $250, it was missing the sidecovers (I picked them up on ebay for $25) and the points cover (I got that for around $5). It has a 4 into 1 exaust header with no can. With other bits and the engine thrown in, I think I've got about $400 in the bike. If this engine swap works, I figure its a good deal.
I'm happy to hear that the engines are faily bulletproof. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.

Wow, you got a great deal on that engine, assuming it's in decent shape.

Thanks for the compliments on the site. I'm glad that it's useful.

In general, Kawasaki engines are regarded as fairly bulletproof. I've got about 45,000 miles on my '87, no rebuilds. Next month I'm going to get the camchain, guides, and tensioner looked at, since they're rattling a bit more than I would like, but that's par for the course as far as I'm concerned.

At almost 30K miles it was run on the dyno and was putting out about 85HP peak, which is excellent. I don't think top-end rebuilds at 20K are the norm by any means.

Send me your e-mail address if you would -- I might want to buy some engine bits from you... (ninja@crashtales.net)

Hi. I have an 87 ZX750R F1. It was the 137th one made at the US factory, going by the vin number. A prior owner had redone the rings and valves of the motor, and hadn't been able to get it to run. I think he also had the cylinder head ported. Its now three owners later, and nobody has been able to get it to run, so I got it very cheaply. The last owner thought it was a cam timing problem. I just picked up a replacement engine for it from ebay. It cost me $80. I had been quoted $600 for a junkyard engine with no warrenty. I figure if nobody else could get this thing running, why bother with it when the spare engine cost so little? The old engine had 20K miles, the new engine has 11K on it. I also picked up some used cylinder heads and cylinders to repair the old engine before I got the deal on the replacement engine.
Can you guys tell be what the longevity of these motors is? I've been on some Suzuki and Honda websites where they say the Kawasaki's engines have problems. I tended to doubt that, but seeing the bike I got had its engine rebuilt at 20K makes me wonder.
Thanks for the great website. Its the best site I've found for the 87-89 750 Ninja. There doesn't seem to be a lot of activity on the net for this model.

Edited by author 08-07-2003 06:15 PM
Hello
Does anyone here now the webb-adress to a garage handbook for the 750R? I have found one that is from germany
(http://home.arcor.de/keyser-soze/GPX750/WHB.zip)
but it would be nice if someone could help me get one in englisch!

Thanks.

The dealer said that the bearings are some kind of cone bearings used for high speeds, not the same bearings that matched up with the bikes originals. You ever heard of such a thing?

I'd call your local dealer and ask. The part may not be available anymore, meaning that you'd be left to scrounge junkyards and ebay. I'd pay the pros to do the job, myself. If the bike has been neglected, and it sounds like maybe it has, they may spot some other things that need attention.

(Welcome to the site, too.)

I figured out that it was the rear seal and bearings! 140.00 for the pros to do it or 90.00 and lots of hours for me to do it! They tell me that if it ate into the rear rim that might cost me a pretty penny too! How much does a rim go for these days?

Alright I'm a fairly new owner of a 87 Ninja 750R and am having some problems. Any help out there?
Just recently the bike started to tick, thats right like a bomb, it sounds like the chain guard is catching on the chain but it is not. It seems to do this at only low speeds, and I think it is comming from the rear wheel area. Today I checked out the back tire and noticed a piece busted. I checked out my "original" motorcycle service manual to try and find the name of the part but was unable to do so, maybe because I am still a rookie. The piece is inside the the rear (rocker arm, i think?) it holds the rear caliper in place with 2 bolts and is shaped like a wide open 'V'. It seems that the bearings and housing unit is what is busted. Would this cause this kind of racket? Thanks for your time and for trying to understand my biker english.

Damn, that sounds like a very interesting transformation. Send pictures!

Just a note to say thanx for putting your page up. Your documentation helped me rescue my 88 from six years in a Southern California garage. It's now been stretched, lowered, stroked, ported, and polished and is running strong. I'm in the process of rechroming and then it's time for paint and probably a bigger set of Mikunis. Again, thanx for providing the information!!

Rod.

Hi everybody. This is a simple discussion board for posts related to my Kawasaki ZX750F / Ninja 750R page.

Questions, stuff you want to buy or sell, corrections and additions, all are appropriate here. Enjoy!